Looking at getting a 05 to 07 F350, didn’t have my ’05 long enough to find out any of the issues.
I’ve since heard to look for:
EGR ‘fix’ or delete – Do you have to do something to keep it from throwing codes if you delete it? Is the fix to replace?
Stretching head bolts – Cause/fix/prevention?
Anything else?

Thanks

 

1. let us know if you intend to run tunes, use it to haul a lot / overweight

2. see the bismic "info for new owners thread"

3. Buy soon, as I believe the prices on the 6.0s are going to rise.

 

I do usually run tunes, but the mid range tow tunes like a 40 - 60 HP tow tune, usually gets you 3+ MPG. Farm truck/RV hauler - may get rid of a Class A and pick up a good size class C. I'll probably go ahead and get a dually.

 

If you are running tunes... pretty much need the whole enchalada of fixes...

From ARP studs, etc.

 

Is that thread a sticky somewhere?

 

Ask bismic to post his current "recommend" list of 6.0 fixes and updates if you are running tunes.

 

If you want a "lifer" of a truck (updated version):
.

1. Heavily consider staying un-tuned. If you have to get a tune, a good tow tune can add power and still be reliable. An Atlas 40 FICM tune is nice also. Regardless, you MUST drive your truck wisely! Avoid over-boosts! Remember - some tunes are WAY better than others - choose wisely!
2. Drive EASY until the truck is FULLY warm
3. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes. OEM filters are IMPORTANT! PROPER fluids are IMPORTANT!
4. EC-1 rated ELC Coolant is a MUST IMO, and monitor the coolant level frequently. Stay watchful for leaks! Yes, you might be able to make the Ford Gold work with flushes every 45k miles and making sure you kept coolant temperatures down ........... BUT WHY SETTLE WITH THAT??!!
5. Properly maintain your batteries and alternator, Check batteries a few times a year, and even put them on a "reconditioning" charger! Proper voltage is important - especially to your FICM.
6. Be very picky about where you fuel up - bad fuel can cause a lot of issues. Drain your HFCM every oil change and when you drain water from it, empty it into a jar and visually inspect.
7. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT - minimum. Keep temperatures down, Excess heat is a "slow killer" of lubrication and o-ring life! Also be watchful for signs of your turbo beginning to stick, or your EBP/MAP sensors getting a bit "off".
8. High Pressure Oil system updates:
   • Adrenaline or CNCFab HPOP for '03's and early '04's
   • Standpipes and Dummy plugs in addition to the HPOP above for late '04's
   • STC fitting replacement/upgrade in addition to the standpipes and dummy plugs for '05's
9. Coolant filter until you are sure all of the solids are out of your system. You can remove the coolant filter if you have CLEAN EC-1 RATED ELC COOLANT!
10. Blue Spring fuel pressure regulator upgrade, or aftermarket solution to proper fuel supply and pressure.
11. For late '04's and above, a BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler.
12. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (to replace the internal pan "screen").
13. Upgraded FICM by FICMrepair.com (or possibly by CircuitBoardMedics.com)
14. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A).
15. High idle mod in case you have to idle for very long.
16. CCV re-route (Use 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and I use a Racor-6000-08-L, but a RACOR 4500 would probably do).
17. Power Steering filter is a nice addition, but clearly not a requirement (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections).

Head studs help IMO (MUST have flat heads and block deck or proper surface finish), but not an absolute requirement if you remain un-tuned.
Good quality O-ringed heads are a tremendous thing to have!

I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR system active, as long as you get the upgraded EGR cooler for the '04.5 and up model years. If you do have an active EGR system: Regularly "pull and check" EGR valve for coking (and for wetness) - do it w/ your truck on an incline facing downwards. maybe even do the same for your turbo.

A Fuel Cetane supplement isn't a bad thing from time-to-time.

Other good upgrades:
Dieselsite CAC boots (there are other good brands also)
FullForceDiesel Injectors

 

bismic:

The only thing I might add to the list is an external oil cooler for those who are really pushing a lot of HP above stock and driving in high heat (e.g climbing hills in Arizona desert in midst of summer heat).

I am in the process of completing the evaluation of that product, and it looks like a winner --- except I regard the thermostat valve as mandatory.

Good list!

 

Personally I am of the opinion that it (external oil cooler) is not needed - even w/ HP upgrades. It may be a "nice-to-have" though. I also want to hear more on its cold weather performance - even w/ the thermostat. Then again I could be wrong ..

 

Ya, I didn't say it is absolutely needed... but if someone wants to dress up their ride...

It comes with an external bypass filter --- something that you and I certainly do not mind!

The issue of oil temp is a big one --- and IMHO, for my climate --- probably safer to use factory because of the risk of cold oil hitting hot engine parts --- perhaps from a thermostat failure.

That is why I am limiting it to moderate climates --- not for the likes of me who like to try out how far I can drive north.

 

Thanks for the post! The other thing that would be kind of nice to show would be an approx. cost for each mod

 

You would need to sit down for that for sure

 

Thank you Mark, this is an excellent TECH INFO. I purchased a 2006 F250 Turbo Diesel King Ranch about two months ago and I am reading about all the problems with the 6.0 engine now I wonder if I made the right choice. Money is tight, I am retired with a fixed income, I am think about selling this truck and purchasing a f250 gas truck. My is stock, no tunes with 65000 miles and I purchased 3yr/36000 extended warranty at the Ford agency. Where and how can I get the history of this truck?. Your comments are greatly appricieted, thank you in advance. P.S. I tow an enclosed trailer with a sandrail, quad and other equip. and no more than 7000 lbs. total weight.

 

What is the extended warranty up to?

And... did you get the top-of-the-line extended warranty?

I would keep it as long as the warranty is good... and sell it 5,000 miles / 6 months before it gives out... unless you want to run it into the ground.

 

Thank you for respond, I have 32 more months to go on the warranty and I bought the Premium Gold, top of the line. Thaks again.