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Whats stronger in a 400, pistons, crank & rods, or block?

 
  #1  
Old 12-25-2010, 01:19 AM
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Whats stronger in a 400, pistons, crank & rods, or block?

Video that told me something may have broke (be warned for lanuage, kinda of a loud f-bomb at the end at the end lol):

YouTube - MVI_1557.AVI






Guess the hyper' pistons didn't like 6500+rpm lol. This happened back in july, finally had a chance to tear it apart, the pistons are a KB hypereutetic piston with floating pins, rod and crank is factory other than a really good balance job and everything is studded. The piston got turned into powder, the resulting rod and wrist pin knockin around took out a nice 4" long x however wide a wrist pin is hole on the inside of the #2 cyclinder. I got lucky though, valve train and heads still appear useable (will have to check the one for cracks, new valves, just hope it didn't hurt the cam lobes, that is a piece of metal i don't want to buy again $$$$), Crank and rods outside of the #2 rod look good, just depends on metal/bearing damage, but it was pretty much instant bang and shutdown.

The plan is get the builder to tear it apart and confirm that the top end and cam is still good to go, then I want to go with a 434 kit, see if i can get the pistons ordered to get the CR into the low 13:1 range, main girdle for the bottom end, maybe even those fancy 4 bolt mains, and quite possibly a bit of block filler too. Look into getting the heads hogged out even more, or if they are shot look into some aluminum ones.

My goal a minimum of 650hp all motor that is capable of suriving the ocasional 150 shot of the giggle gas.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 02:50 AM
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I would have said the same thing. The rods are forged from the factory, so I don't think thats your problem. One thing with hypers is they are honed to a tight fit. When reving the motor to a high rpm like that, its good to have the engine honed a little on the loose side. Also the stock heads are prone to detonation, and and if you up'd the compression, and had a little bit of detonation, cast pistons fall apart. That would be my guess, but then again it could be a few things. Rings to tights, Not honed enough, detonation, bearing went, and then the piston got off balance. Good to see your ready to get back on the horse though, and truck sounded good until 42sec mark. Good luck on the next build. Maybe forged pistons this time, and aluminum heads.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:54 AM
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I'm already in the 12.5:1 range and running 110octane, could've been caused by running on the lean side, but the pistons in it have been used for a fair bit of time now, so I'm thinking they just had enough of the high rpm (this thing would spin to 7500 before you could let of the throttle lol, this is what it was built for as per your suggestion) over the last three years.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 11:34 AM
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The stock rods are a weak link, easily bent in a abusive situation.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 01:27 PM
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Stock pistons are the weaker link , then the block, then the rod lol, that rod wasn't bent from what I could measure with it still in the motor.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 02:01 PM
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sucks but funny and on video!

been their done that before. I think I used the same words. good luck on the rebuild. could hear a guy laughing in the background sucks to be you. If it was easy everybody would do it. but more involved than people realize to be competitive in this sport. Sounds like you said, might of went a little lean. Definetly need to check sparkplugs and confirm for future experience. catch you later and keep on muddin!!
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mustange70 View Post
I'm already in the 12.5:1 range and running 110octane, could've been caused by running on the lean side, but the pistons in it have been used for a fair bit of time now, so I'm thinking they just had enough of the high rpm (this thing would spin to 7500 before you could let of the throttle lol, this is what it was built for as per your suggestion) over the last three years.
I would stay with that compression ratio, but get a differant head. aussie if you want to save a buck, but I would go with procomp aluminum or trickflows. Aluminum heads with the better combustion chamber, will let you run good compression, and allow you to stay with 110. Most people run 116 with 12.5 and 13 to 1 compression with cast iron heads. Rods are good to 600hp from what I understand. 4.00 inch stroke motors, don't really like 7500rpm, so thats probubly why it happened. LOL
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 06:44 PM
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cylinder heads?

what heads are you running? 2v or 4v heads or something else?
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 07:24 PM
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I'm running some worked over 4v quench heads, if I go aluminum it's either the chi 3v heads or a set of NASCAR castings, the heads I have are already better than the procomps, so not much use going with those. In terms of the fuel the 110 is fine for what I'm running and really isn't needed till high 13's to the 14:1 range, or if you are using a blower or big nitrous system, but either way if need better fuel no biggie.

Now this motor is already conservatively rated for 600, but is closer to 650, I just want to get it to over that 650 mark on the dyne, and the higher the better, and thus the want for better internals.

here's another vid from the previous season when I first got it running:

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 07:24 PM
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edit sorry double post.
 
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:04 AM
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Put a call in to the builder and told him what i want for the next motor, 434 stroker kit, main girdle, block filler, as much compression as possible, and some giggle gas . . . . 800 is the goal to hit .
 
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:11 PM
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Soooo, talked with the builder again, pending cost, crank will be a cleveland/windsor forged 4340 4.250" crank, a little black magic for the bearings, forged rods and pistons, cr is going to be in the 13-13.25:1 range, i will update as i go
 
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:26 PM
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yes, please keep up on the updates, im very curious as to see as how this will go for you. im hoping this works, if so, my next build will be a kind of mix between urs and wyoming 4x4's
 
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:29 PM
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just checkin in.

Originally Posted by Scolesy8 View Post
yes, please keep up on the updates, im very curious as to see as how this will go for you. im hoping this works, if so, my next build will be a kind of mix between urs and wyoming 4x4's
i'm on low end of the power curve and your on the extreme end of the power curve. On the heads the new combustion chambers are nice and reccomend them. But if you have some parts laying around you can make them work also in the cylinder head department.
 
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:48 PM
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what ignition are you running.

I seen a msd box but what distributor? mechanical or vacume? Been running mechanical advance with a phaseable rotor from MSD for many years. Really need to be running one of these with the rpms your running. Helps prevent crossfire and this can cause a lean condition and break some really cool parts. also are you running a vented cap on distributor. If running non vented cap and you water proof it perfect. I think the word is ionization within cap. creates a path of least resistance for electricity to jump around within cap such as a crossfire in cap to cause a lean condition in cylinder when running high rpms. Just thought I'd mention this to help prevent another expensive situation. Something to check out. any questions drop a message.
 

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