I bought this truck private sale in late June. I've already put about $1200.00 into it. Thought I had it all set (only 87000 miles on it) until last month when the SES came on. Checked it with my scanner and the only code is P1518--Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open -Bank 1. I've tried the Seafoam down the intake trick twice now. It lasts about a week then comes back on. The odd part is that the truck runs fine--no misfire, no bad idle, no sign of any problem. I did a vacuum check of the motor and it's steady and responds well. Is my only recourse to dismantle the entire intake to check this problem or is there something else it could be? I really can't afford to pay the dealer for diagnosis/repair because you know they'll just throw parts at it for big bucks and say it's fixed. Can anyone shed more light? Any and all ideas would be appreciated!!!!

 

Why have you not looked up what the code is telling you?
Intake manifold runner 'control' (IMRC) is stuck open.
Open hood and look at it.
Good luck.

 

I wish it were that simple. Have you ever looked at the v6 in a 2003 model? It's so far back in the engine bay that it's impossible to see the IMRCs. If someone can tell/show me a way to see it and touch it without tearing the intake apart, I would more than welcome that knowledge.

 

What happened? is the motor electrical or vacuum controlled via servo? Mine just came on and the first thing I thought was blankity blank, those are impossible to get to. I have no drive-ability problems. I also know what it is and is for. I'm just used to repairing BMW's. Thanks

 

The intake runner controls changes intake tract 'tuning' to increase low end torque by restricting airflow cross section that increases air speed in the runners.
At a programmed rpm range, the runner control opens vacuum to the actuators to open up the cross section area for higher rpm airflow and power.
You may not notice a driveabilty issue unless you were to pay attention over some amount of time and feel the truck may not pull as hard at low speeds (runner stuck open fault) as well as not knowing there is such an action going on to 'feel' it when it is not working.
Your code is for is for a stuck open condition either side or both.
Seafom or such attempts seldom have any effect on such an issue.
The assembly is a shaft running through each sides runners with internal valve plates attached.
The actuators are mounted on both sides, rear of intake manifold.
I can be somewhat labor intensive to clear the problem.
Since this type issue does not cause any difficult drivability, you can let it go until it's emissions inspection time then you need to have it fixed to clear the code and CEL light.
Good luck.

 

I found out from a recent experience that on the '01-'03 4.2L v-6 engines switched from 2 seperate IMRC Vacuum Actuators(one on each bank) to a single actuator mounted in the back center of the lower intake manifold with linkages going to each bank. I found that one of my issues was that one of the clips had broken and was not holding the linkage to IMRC shaft. The clips are usually available from your local parts store for less that $4. My other issue was that the wire harness that runs to the IMRC Actuator was chaffing and causing a short to send an open reading to the Computer causing the SES light to come on. I was able to repair the wire and I haven't had an issue since. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Thanks F16, that's a reply that can help me. I have also been having a recurrent 1071/1074 code that I have yet to find a cure for. That is why I was interested if a vacuum actuator was involved, possibly causing a vacuum leak I have yet to find due to the inaccessibility of the component. I now need to determine if open or closed is the position of with or without vacuum applied. What a mouthful. Hopefully I can fix 2 things with this new code. Also, thanks for the advise about the wiring harness. I had an erratic reading of the engine temp gauge on my Firebird that turned out being a chafed wire insulation going around behind the engine that was grounding out causing the fluctuation. That took some thinking because I found out I have 3 coolant temp sensors, one for electric coolant fan control, one for the ECM and one for the gauge. And to think that some folks think that a mechanic, err Auto Technician is a lowly profession.

 

Compuwrench,
The codes you refer to are P0171 and P0174 which lead you to a lean fuel condition in both cylinder banks. I had this issue as well. The fix for mine was to remove the upper and lower intake plenum, Remove the isolator bolts that mount the lower plenum to the intake manifold as well as all of the gaskets for the lower plenum and upper. I was able to get all of the Isolator bolts(8 of them. Make sure they have the green rubber on them and not the black), upper and lower plenum gaskets from my local FORD dealer for about $140 and cost me most of a saturday Removing and replacing everything(Had I let the dealer do this It would have run me close to $900). While I was at it I decided to R2 my fuel injectors($360 from local parts store BWD injectors(Mfg'd for FORD OEM)) while I had the intake plenum off. A word of advice...Take your time and label every connection it will aide you in putting everything back together. While you are at it clean out the intake plenum with lots of carb and throttle body cleaner. You'll be suprised how much gunk is stuck to the plenum and the runners. Once you have the plenum off you will have a good view of the IMRC butterflys and the EGR runner ports. Plan on cleaning these as well while you have everything apart. I noticed that my EGR ports were semi-clogged. I took a scribe and cleared the ports and I vacuumed out the lossened gunk with my shop-vac. Let us know what you come up with. Good Luck.

 

[quote=compwrench;10416910]Thanks F16, that's a reply that can help me. I have also been having a recurrent 1071/1074 code that I have yet to find a cure for. That is why I was interested if a vacuum actuator was involved, possibly causing a vacuum leak I have yet to find due to the inaccessibility of the component. I now need to determine if open or closed is the position of with or without vacuum applied. What a mouthful. Hopefully I can fix 2 things with this new code. Also, thanks for the advise about the wiring harness. I had an erratic reading of the engine temp gauge on my Firebird that turned out being a chafed wire insulation going around behind the engine that was grounding out causing the fluctuation. That took some thinking because I found out I have 3 coolant temp sensors, one for electric coolant fan control, one for the ECM and one for the gauge. And to think that some folks think that a mechanic, err Auto Technician is a lowly profession.[/quote]
I'm glad that some of my knowledge gained the hard way is helping another in this world. I am still in awe of all of the actual Auto Techs out there who share their knowledge with the rest of us. I am actually an Aircraft Mechanic(Crew Chief) and that has helped me immencely with troubleshooting all of these electrical issues most common with modern engines. Good luck.

 

As a Dealer trainer I had to use my certification to sign off on my trainees work, After seeing that story about one Certified Aircraft Tech having to sign off on 40 or more un-certified Techs that gave me a second reason not to fly. The first being I'm not driving. I'm not in TX anymore but saw the Govt was going to make TX a no fly zone because the leaders in TX objected to passengers being sexually molested before being able to fly. What is this country coming too? On the auto front, I have yet to be convinced that those bolts are causing my 1071/1074 problem. I have no driveability problem and it only comes on in the winter. I also cleared the 1518 code and after a few days it has yet to come back. I do plan on pulling the upper and middle intake soon and will replace those gaskets and bolts even if it is just preventative maintenance. I will replace those IMRC clips as well as give everything a good cleaning and check any vacuum hoses back there too. Thanks for the info on the proper bolts to get.

 

Well, I wasn't lucky with my error code. I had to have my localFord dealer do the work. He replaced the IMRC motor, bushings, and gaskets for a whopping $1150 total. I just didn't have time to do it and I needed my inspection sticker asap. Hope you make out better than I did!!