Did you put the extra coolant temp sensor on the block like the manual has? In the Schematics, the manual uses the wires that WENT to the trans temp sensor in the auto trans to an Engine Coolant Sensor on the manual truck.

 

The manual trucks have only one coolant temp sensor, just like the automatics except in the case of the auto, the information goes for transmission shifting strategy use cold vs hot. I am working on a fix for the CEL and should be done with it tomorrow. POS junk Airtex waterpump (cheap piece of junk worthless garbage) had the cheapest fitting I've seen and when I was attempting to remove it, I stripped it out and ruined the threads. What junk. Anyway, I will post up if I find a fix for the Check engine if my idea works.

 

I hope your idea works out.

Do you have anymore details on the CPP switch?

 

Well, the check engine light is gone, but I still have a check gauge light which is due to the tranmission temp sensor being disconnected I am thinking. Anyway, I noticed the truck starts and runs better when it isn't defueling because it thinks its overheating. What I did was remove the pipe plug on the drivers side of the thermostat housing on the water pump, then I tapped in another water temp sensor. The factory temp sensor I have the signal wire running to the computer pin 37 which is the OG/BK wire that used to go to the trans fluid temp sensor. The added sensor I tapped off the feed from the factory sensor, and the signal then goes to the factory wiring which goes to the dashboard. I jumpered both sensors and they work as they should.

 

For whatever reason, even with a reflashed pcm, it still looks for the range sensor on the '02+ trucks. Try a manaul pcm first and that should fix everything but cruise. For your cruise, that is easy. Then, make sure the RED/LT GRN wire has a signal from the brakes; when you push the brake pedal, you should see +12V at the switch. Next, you should find the TN/LB wire from the pedal harness. This goes to the RD/WHT wire which in the auto, told the computer to lock out OD. Connect the RD/WHT and TN/LB wires. Make sure the clutch switch springs look normal (no breaks) and try to engage cruise at +35MPH


I was looking back and noticed that you mentioned someone said the EOT and ECT sensors are the same. This is NOT correct. While their operating range of values are similar they are not the identical by any means. First, the indexing pins are slightly different. Additionally, the Ford catalog comes up with the EOT sensor instead of the ECT. They do NOT interchange. Someone at Ford wasn't paying attention. You are looking for a gray sensor with a tapered brass reading sensor.

 

Here is an excerpt I wrote earlier on coolant sensors... F5AZ12A648AB is the correct coolant temp sensor. You are more than likely being given the EOT sensor. Both thermistors, but with different resistance values. The F65Z100884AA is WRONG. Although plastic colors are not a reliable indicator, the gray sensor is the correct one. The correct sensor also has a tapered sensor on it, but I have seen EOT and ECT sensors with it. The EOT has an index mark further to the edge than the ECT.

 

The Schematics I was looking at had the Wires for the trans temp on the auto go to a ECT on the manual. But then it showed the pin 37 on the pinout labels for the PCM showing it as TFT for auto and EOT for manual.

The schematics contradicts itself/one of them is mislabeled.

A member from another site told me his manual truck has an extra ECT, one for the gauge, one for the PCM that is located on the front passenger side of the engine block where my Automatic truck supposedly has a plug in its place.

I should be getting a used aeb3 PCM and an engine wiring harness for a manual 2002 soon.


The manual gauge cluster uses a voltage gauge instead of the TFT, I have a manual 02 cluster coming, if I end up giving up and putting the AUTO back in, I'll be selling it (an everything else for that matter.) But I'm still trying to get this truck straightened out before I give up and start recuperating lost funds.

 

Well, let me know how the manual cluster ends up working. Like I said, the only thing left that doesn't work as it would factory is the check gage light. Other than that, the truck is working exactly as it should now that the coolant temp sensor (2) has been added. Interesting that the manuals actually do have 2 sensors. I installed mine in the plugged location so that would make sense. The wiring harness diagram stating pin 37 is EOT is wrong. The TFT is pin 37, but for the manual turns out to be the coolant temp. You can verify this be taking the second sensor and harness, and tap into the reference voltage supply on the original sensor. Then, send the signal wire from the new sensor to pin 37. Jumper the two wires and the check engine should come on with a P0118 code. Plug in a good coolant temp sensor, and the code goes away and the check engine light does as well. I wouldn't switch back to auto, you have almost got it all worked out!

 

The Manual PCM did nothing. It still requires a jumper (DTR) on the Transmission harness to start the truck.

The CPP doesn't do anything. What are the 6 wires for on it? 2 for the starter relay, 2 for cruise control... what are the last 2 for?

I haven't added the ECT sensor yet, but I can't find the plug where it goes either. Can you help me find where it screws in?

Is the ECT sensor going to make my truck go from 8mpg to 18mpg? I just don't understand this. and why the CPP isn't responding. I can't find where the PCM has anything to do with the starter relay circuit.

 

Since you have removed the jumper, I think I know what is happening. The auto harness has continuity only along the triple function jumper and the range sensor. Try taking the wires from the clutch switch, feed them directly to the connector which the computer uses for starting switching. In other words, there are about 4 square connectors on the drivers side fender liner right behind the relays for trailer circuit charge and for the ESOF. You are looking for the lower connector that is gray on the metal bracket. The six wires I have coming off my harness are
- LTBLU/GRN
-WHT/PK
-RED/GRN
-LTBLU/TN , TN/WHT (@column)
-TN/RD
-LTBLU/GRN

The correct sequence would be to connect these wires directly from the cab through the firewall and to this connector. I have noted in bold the change which needs to take place for cruise. You will find this wire in the harness going to your TCIL or auto shifter light. Connect the LTBLU/TN wire to the TN/WHT wire at the auto gear selector and this will enable cruise again.

For some reason your truck is not seeing continuity along the harness in the truck, it is looking at the range sensor which plugs in directly to the harness in the fender which goes to the computer. You need to interrupt the signal since the truck is thinking the range sensor is the clutch switch.

 

Let me know what happens and also if the manual cluster helps at all

 

The harness with the gray connector which is used for the CPPS is also the same harness you can use the OG/BLK wire to send the second water temp to for pcm fueling rates.

 

Just finished the swap on my '02 and am having the same problems as Clearprop. I installed the manual trans harness on mine and couldn't get the truck to start so I had to cut the gray connector off the auto harness, jump two wires and plug it in above the fender. I ended up jumping pin 12 and pin 13 on the harness don't know if this was right or not but my wire colors didn't match what I have read on other posts and it worked so I went with it. Also my clutch pedal switch has no effect what so ever, truck will start with it in or out, in gear or in neutral. They sent me the wrong computer as it was out of an '01 f450 and the tachometer doesn't work and I have no power above 2,000 rpm. I ordered another one which I received today and of course it was out of an '02 f550, tachometer started working but it seemed like the truck lacked even more power upon acceleration so I sent it back. I installed my auto computer and the truck starts much better with no dash lights at all, but I still have no acceleration. I assume a f450 or 550 computer won't work on my truck, but am having trouble locating the right one and am not sure it will solve my problems anyway. Didn't mean to hijack this thread, just thought since I was having the same problem as Clearprop it was the right place to post.

 

Please read the thread from beginning to end and it should give you some idea on what may be happening. For the no power issue, all I can think of is the coolant sensors etc. You didn't mention if you added a second sensor and where you wired it to. Have you made sure you have continuity for all wires on your clutch switch? Mine did not so as the post above yours describes, I had to wire them. All of your wire colors will NOT match any pre 02 MY trucks as there were numerous changes by Ford in the harnesses. Check the entire thread and let me know if you have questions! I don't intend to sound uninterested, but everything I did to make it all work is here as far as wiring and computers and there is no need to keep adding the same information!

 

Thanks for your assistance. I really appreciate it. Do you still have your VDH2 auto PCM? I am interested in it. I have the 2002 Manual guage cluster if you wanted to make a swap. Let me know. Thanks.