The manual transmission on my F250 7.3L Powerstroke (105,000 miles) no longer functions well. It has become difficult to shift into the low gears (and reverse) with the motor running. I've also noticed that the truck begins moving when in gear while I still have the clutch fully pressed to the floor (as though the clutch were not fully depressed). I was told by a friend that my truck needs a new clutch "master cylinder." Does that sound right?

I have minimal knowledge about this stuff and would appreciate guidelines to help me avoid being ripped off. About how much should I expect to pay for repairs? What common factors could affect the cost? Any recommendations for repair shops in Los Angeles...preferably the east side (Bell, Huntington Park,etc)?

Thanks

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First thing you should do is check the fluid level in the reservoir to make sure it's not empty. When my reservoir went empty it was because of a leaking slave cylinder. It was hard to put into gear at idle. Didn't grind, but the lever just didn't want to go into gear.

If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver, you can change out the clutch hydraulics yourself. Depending on if you buy just the bad part or the entire pre-bled kit from Ford, I'd say it would be between $40 - $175 in parts for a DIY project.

 

Greetings and welcome to FTE.
You will find a wealth of information on this site. Do a search and you will find step by step advice on how to replace the slave and master for the clutch. Pretty easy to do. I did mine in Oct. of 09 and got the pre-bled unit from Car Quest for around 120. The best way to avoid getting ripped off is knowledge, knowing what needs to be done and what it takes, etc. Good luck.

 

I will probably choose to support one of my local auto repair shops. How much can I expect to be charged by a repair shop for this job? Are there any factors that could reasonably increase the magnitude and cost of the job?

 

Not sure what year truck you have but if the clutch fork is giving that will cost you a little more. How long has it be doing this? If its been doing it a while probably not the fork and probably just your master cylinder or slave as others have said.

 

How about costing a lot more. You're right about the fork being a possibility, that's why I suggested he start by checking the fluid level to give us a clue. The $40 slave story was to keep his hopes up of it being something simple.

To the OP, expect to pay probably $500 or so for the work if they replace the hydraulic set up. There will be a diagnostic fee, parts with mark up, plus labor, shop supplies etc. Once you've done it a few times, you could do it in about 15 min. in your driveway with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. If it's a bent clutch fork, expect over $1000 and you need to seriously think about having them inspect or change the clutch / pilot bearing / pressure plate (as well as clutch fork) out while they're in there. Pulling that monster tranny is a big task. Of course that can add some additional money in parts, but labor at that point should be minimal.

Go check the fluid, if it's empty, add DOT3 brake fluid and see if the truck acts better before it leaks back out.

 

Thanks for the info. My transmission has been acting this way for many months now, slowly getting worse. All fluids were checked recently during my last oil change. My truck is a 1995.

If I understand correctly, replacement of the "hydraulic set up" is the best case scenario, involving replacement of the master and slave cylinders?

 

I've replaced mine twice. Doubt it was necessary either time though. Your little tiny clutch master cylinder reservoir probably doesn't even get noticed in an oil change. It's up high and about two inches in diameter if I recall right.

Chris is right though. Check that thing, it's pretty much straight up from where the clutch pedal rod goes through the firewall. I paid about $150 from the local dealer this last time, should have bought from "that OEM Baby guy just don't ever mention his name " but I was trying to get my truck driving that day. See my thread for how much longer than one day that turned into.

 

Thanks...I believe I found it. When I opened the cap, a rubber diaphragm thingie was floating a couple millimeters above the rim of the cylinder, so I think the fluid is okay.

Guess that means I'll be paying around $500 for a new hydraulic setup?

 

No, unfortunately that means the hydraulics may be just fine.

Print this and take it to your mechanic so he can check clearance on the clutch fork. These pictures are with a good fork. A bent fork will measure more. He just needs to pull the slave cylinder and stick a tape measure in there to know for sure. Takes about 45 seconds to check.

 

if you take it to a shop and make it sound like you know what you are talking about then they may charge you less. Buy the part yourself and take it to them and tell them you know this is only about a 30min to an hour job. That way they should only charge you an hours rate which should be around $100. So that plus the 120ish you pay for the part you should be well under $300 all said and done.

OR

You can tell us where about you live and we will do our best to find a local "FTE brother or Sister" to help you out.

(ps option #2 is a good bet LOL)



ON EDIT:

Chris is the master at these things. BUT still let us know where you live so perhaps someone can help you out.

 

Are the symptoms of a "bent fork" the same as a bad hydraulic setup? Would both cause my truck to start moving when I shift into first or reverse but still have the clutch pedal fully depressed?

I live in Bell, CA (Los Angeles county). I do not have a mechanic so would not mind recommendations.

 

A bent fork means when the pedal is down, it doesn't "push" the clutch all the way. A bad hydraulic set up can do the same thing, but it's usually low on fluid when it causes the truck to act like that.

You can check this yourself with a pair of pliers and a tape measure. Get under the truck and turn the slave cylinder 1/4 turn CCW and just pull it out and stick the tape measure in the hole. When you're done, stick it back in and turn it CW to lock it back into place. If it's a bent fork, I'd stop driving it or have a plan ready in case bent becomes broken and you no longer have any clutch pedal.

 

Here's a picture of a New and Old fork.(Thanks Dan)
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/.../sizeimage.jpg

Here's a picture of my broken fork. Some bend and not break for a while.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...okeFork002.jpg

Also have you checked the clutch pedal bushing? That can be pretty simple and also cause this issue.

Nice pictures Chris