I currently have the Getrag 360 in my truck, but mine is 2WD.

It sounds like you are on the right track. I would keep the front diff like you are planning and run the NP205.

 

Yeah, this is looking like the most budget friendly, yet still mechanically correct way to accomplish the conversion.

Are you running an intercooled Cummins? If so, was your F350 originally a diesel or gas engine? What did you do for radiator and core support? I've heard conflicting stories on the core support, radiator and intercooler fit specs. I've heard you have to trim the backside of the grill to fit the intercooler, but I was just looking at it last night and it doesn't appear very thick? I have yet to measure the intercooler width, to make sure it is wide enough to fit around the 460 radiator. However, since I am getting the complete Dodge, I don't see why I couldn't use the cummins radiator, retrofitted in to my truck. I'll measure the thickness of the 460 vs Cummins rads to make sure that isn't the issue, space wise.

 

Truck originally had a 460. I used the 460 radiator. I made a custom crossover pipe to route the coolant, with short rubber radiator hose on each end. I could have a rad. shop change the outlet on the radiator I guess. The cummins was a non-intercooled type, so I didn't mess with an intercooler.

 

So now that I feel like I have the larger drivetrain issues addressed, what about smaller, but still critical systems. Everyone says the early Cummins are so nice because they aren't electronic, so I gather wiring is virtually a non-issue. How about charging systems though? Simply a matter of swapping connectors for alternators? Are the Dodges internally regulated?
How about fuel system? Use the factory tanks and fuel lines? I'm assuming you need some sort of fuel return line?

 

At 4Bt: This will pretty much answer most of your questions

FAQ: 4BT Swaps Technical Topics Index-BOOKMARK THIS THREAD FOR FUTURE REFERENCES

Seems like everyone does their swap a little different depending on their skills and pocketbook. For example: some people like to use the dodge alternator and wire into the wiring of the vehicle they are swapping it into. I took the Ford alternator and with a custom adaptor bolted it in place of the Dodge alternator. Wiring is simple, again look at above link. Fuel system on my 86 already had a return line.

 

The Dodge alternator is controlled by the computer. They do have a computer on the Cummins of that age, but more for intake heater and other non-critical systems. It runs the alternator, and if you had an auto, the overdrive. The tach is also controlled by the computer. I didn't reuse the computer, and used the Ford alternator, but there are ways to set up a regulator on the Dodge alternator and not change any of the mounting, but I don't remember exactly how now. Used to be a site dedicated to doing Cummins swaps that I was a part of, and would start up again if I had time and money... had a lot of good info there. The motor mounts are best set up by using the diesel plates for the Ford frame, but those can also be fabricated if you were to want to, or had too much trouble finding a set of plates. The nice thing with the plates is they bolt right on the frame, even with the 460 originally there. However, my recommendation is to NOT use the Dodge style mounting from the donor you will be getting, but rather make a set that either mount vertical only, or use eye bushing style like suspension mounts. The later Dodges actually went to the eye bushing style. The pad type that comes with the Dodge settle when used on the angle the Ford uses. Also, the motor mount arrangement is the same for all the years on the diesel and 460 frames. I have a comparison in my gallery of some of the different frames. Some motors actually had the oil filter sticking through the frame, which means a bit more work to do something like this.

The 460 rad in the 92 would have been trapped in by the intercooler due to mounting configuration, so in order to pull it, I would have had to remove the intercooler, which meant disassembling the nose just to replace the radiator, so that was a no go for me. I just used the Dodge rad, which solved the hose arrangement issue at the same time.

The adapter plates from Fordcummns require you to hack up you trans bell a bit, while the ones from Destroked do not. The complaint I have with both is that the starter is moved to be behind the exhaust down pipe, not a good place to me. I like having the starter on the driver side where it is nice and clear of most everything. The adapter plates also cost 600 or so.

 

Thanks Mark, I'll check out 4bt like you mentioned. I'm sure many of the questions I addressed, being more generic, can be addressed there.

fellro86, thanks for the info on the alternator; I have a feeling I will probably end up making some custom brackets to run my alternator, just to keep it simpler. I have access to a CAD plaz, so designing the brackets and having them look good should be achievable. As far as adapters etc, I'm actually planning to use the stock Getrag, so I will be using the stock bellhousing and starter location. My original plan was to try and use all the Dodge running gear, switching to a passenger side drop Dana 60. However, I have since decided that I should be able to use a Ford NP205 transfer case, with 6 bolt flange, mated to the 6 bolt flange transmission adapter currently connecting the Getrag and Dodge NP205. Essentially I will just swap the stock Dodge trans adapter and input gear into/onto the Ford NP205 and voila, drivers drop! From my research, Dodge "copied" Ford's 6 bolt design, so the clocking of the transfer case is symetrical, allowing for the driver's or passenger drop. The only thing I've been wondering from the research I've done is whether the NP205's were also supported by a crossmember, or if they just use the transmission as the support. My Borg-Warner 1345 is just supported of the trans. I suppose fabricating a crossmember/mount for the NP205 if necessary wouldn't be that difficult. Last, as far as drivetrain thoughts is that as long as I match gearing to the Dodge, or even go a little higher, I can achieve the same cruising RPM's. I will probably go with the same gear ratios, as I plan to do a lift and some 35's, maybe 37's, down the road, so that will gear me up a little further.
I'm getting really excited about this swap, but unfortunately do to other work in the shop, I will either have to wait for a bit to start, or have to endure the high 30, low 40 daytime highs for the next several months!

 

Well I pick up the Dodge tomorrow, ending up paying $1300 for it through the bid process at the fire department, but still think I got a good score. Engine only has 71k on it and it's got a Dana 60 under the front and a Dana 70 out back. Between those I should be able to cover my cost of the truck and I get to keep the rest of the drivetrain. Parting out the rest of the truck should cover most of the other expenses of the conversion. In fact, already have some parts sold!

Realistically going to be a few months before I can start in earnest, but going to start prepping some items and collecting parts to shorten the conversion down time!

 

Spent about 45 minutes at most today and got the tranny back up and running! Was simply stuck between gears; disassembled the shifter, manually lined everything back up and reinstalled shifter! When I pull the entire engine and transmission I will open up the transmission and check out everything, surface the flywheel and install a new clutch.

fellro, I'm looking at running the motor mounts made by Auto World in Montana. Auto World
They are a more vertical mount like you said. I'm also planning to run the Dodge radiator and alter the stock grill to fit the intercooler behind the grill. Using the getrag and doing the transfer case conversion will allow me to keep the starter, bellhousing, tranny configuration exactly the same and stock. I've identified a few more things I want to address and I am going to take them up over at 4btswaps.com My very quick research seems to reveal that Dodge's of the early 90 vintage used a vacuum based cruise control system of some sort, so I am hoping that I will be able to adapt my Ford stock cruise over to it as well, a feature it seems most of the conversions I've seen lack at this point. The either item is that it appears the Dodge may have the "hydroboost" brake system as I believe they called it? So, seeing as how my truck has a more traditional vacuum booster assisted system, I will have to address that, which at worst could mean a stand-alone pump.
I haven't even got the swap started, but now that I've got the truck mobile I'm thinking about what upgrades I want to do to the engine once I get it moved over!

 

Autoworld make real good mounts, good choice. I have actually visited them at their shop. On the cruise, since you have it, (my truck was a Custom, no air even, still have to work on that part...) I would think you should be able to hook that up to a vac pump. It should have a vac pump already if that is the case. I think the cruise I pulled from the Dodge was all electric, but might not have been, that was a few years ago now... The Doge donor had vac brakes on mine. You might consider getting a hydraulic booster from a 1 ton or so, the brakes are supposed to be better with them. At least that is what I am told, and I see it all the time where people are changing them over to hydroboost.

I t is amazing how simple it is to turn up the VE pump, and how much of a change it makes... Ours was doggy when I got it, made a couple adjustments and woke it right up...

 

Your Ford 205 won't bolt up directly in place of the Dodge one, the Dodge case is a racetrack pattern case, with a racetrack to round pattern adapter on it. You can put the dodge input in, but you will have to build a round to round adapter the same length as the racetrack to round adapter currently on there.

The Dodges are indeed full vacuum brakes and criuse.

 

Any news on how the swap is going?

 

Hey Redneck, the swap has been going kind of slow because I've been in the process of switching jobs, but switching jobs has freed up some money to buy parts!!! I drove the Dodge until the trip permit expired and I couldn't resist the urge to make some upgrades. So far I've installed the 366 governor spring, turned up the full power screw by 1.5 turns and picked up some turbo parts. Right now the turbo is a hyrid of a Super 40 with an H1C turbine housing and turbine wheel/shaft in it. I've also picked up all the parts to make it a full Super 40, with the full 4" outlet etc, smaller 16cm WG'd turbine housing (from stock 21.5cm!!!). My Auto World MT mounts showed up and will be going to powder on Monday, I got a full 4" Diamond Eye exhaust for a 2WD Dodge, which should work great on the driver's drop, South Bend Clutch and I had to buy a HD Engine stand that I wouldn't worry about dumping the Cummins off of! The only major piece I'm waiting on showing up is my Advance Adapter for the trans/t-case. Anyone wondering, the Dodge uses the same 6 bolt round pattern that the Ford's use. So, I could have gone the route of using a Ford NP205 swapped inputs on the t-case and bolted up. However, for my build I decided that the BW1345 would work just fine and so I decided to just adapt it.
I'm going to be working on pulling the Cummins tomorrow and Saturday, then I'll be cleaning it up, addressing the KDP, installing a new piston lift pump, cleaning and painting the engine and then finally moving on to stripping and transplanting into the Ford! So, not a great deal of actual swap progress, but accumulating parts and planning it out. Heck, I'm invested enough in parts at this point it has to happen! A few parts peeks...





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Your the guy who got that from the fire department for a song aren't ya lol? I've always loved your ford pics. Dang sexy pickup!

 

Haha, yeah, I got it for $1300 and I was the highest bid by $350, so I could have got it cheaper. Thanks for the compliments on the Ford, I try to keep it clean! Probably going to switch to a billet grill to accommodate the intercooler a bit easier. I found one from Precision Grill that they just happened to have a stock photo of it in a red truck and it looked pretty good really! Will save having to cut mine up. I've been posting more over on cummins forum lately, sorting out the Cummins end of the swap, but I'll try to keep both updated. I link the Cummins forum in tomorrow as well!