99 Expedition stuck in four wheel drive..help!
#18
#19
This is where you're losing me...if it stays in A4WD then how can you feel it shift into 4Hi when you move the selector switch? There is no difference between A4WD staying locked up and 4Hi...they are the same.
#21
[QUOTE=alloro;15852504]This is where you're losing me...if it stays in A4WD then how can you feel it shift into 4Hi when you move the selector switch? There is no difference between A4WD staying locked up and 4Hi...they are the same.[/QUOT
Okay let's forget that I can feel anything..I do know that my a4wd is always engaged until I pull the fuses under the hood for it
Okay let's forget that I can feel anything..I do know that my a4wd is always engaged until I pull the fuses under the hood for it
#22
[QUOTE=drk1bowhunter;15852561
Okay let's forget that I can feel anything..I do know that my a4wd is always engaged until I pull the fuses under the hood for it[/QUOTE]
Sounds like when he's in A4WD the Torque on Demand clutch is at 100% duty cycle. The GEM prolly thinks there is a difference in speed between the front and rear driveshafts.
Are there any warning lights on? Like CEL or flashing OD light? Maybe a good scan tool can pull out some B codes?
Okay let's forget that I can feel anything..I do know that my a4wd is always engaged until I pull the fuses under the hood for it[/QUOTE]
Sounds like when he's in A4WD the Torque on Demand clutch is at 100% duty cycle. The GEM prolly thinks there is a difference in speed between the front and rear driveshafts.
Are there any warning lights on? Like CEL or flashing OD light? Maybe a good scan tool can pull out some B codes?
#23
Sounds like when he's in A4WD the Torque on Demand clutch is at 100% duty cycle. The GEM prolly thinks there is a difference in speed between the front and rear driveshafts.
Are there any warning lights on? Like CEL or flashing OD light? Maybe a good scan tool can pull out some B codes?
Are there any warning lights on? Like CEL or flashing OD light? Maybe a good scan tool can pull out some B codes?
#24
The TC is mechanically "locked" in 4WD when the selector switch is in A4WD or 4Hi. The difference is that when in A4WD the front clutch (powered by fuse 104) is electrically disengaged until rear wheel spin is detected. When rear wheel spin (RWS) is detected the system powers the front clutch which engages the front driveshaft to give the added traction. The sole purpose of the transfer case shift motor is to switch between 4WD Hi and 4WD Low. Since pulling fuse 104 releases the front driveshaft I suspect there is a problem with a speed sensor, like pdqford suggested, or there could be a problem with a relay, the 4WD circuitry, or one of the contacts in the shift motor. At this point my money is on the shift motor contact since there is no trouble light being flashed.
#25
The TC is mechanically "locked" in 4WD when the selector switch is in A4WD or 4Hi. The difference is that when in A4WD the front clutch (powered by fuse 104) is electrically disengaged until rear wheel spin is detected. When rear wheel spin (RWS) is detected the system powers the front clutch which engages the front driveshaft to give the added traction. The sole purpose of the transfer case shift motor is to switch between 4WD Hi and 4WD Low. Since pulling fuse 104 releases the front driveshaft I suspect there is a problem with a speed sensor, like pdqford suggested, or there could be a problem with a relay, the 4WD circuitry, or one of the contacts in the shift motor. At this point my money is on the shift motor contact since there is no trouble light being flashed.
#29
Did you ever get it fixed. I followed this forum last winter and gave up on mine. I just pulled the 104 fuse and called it good.
I have a 2000 Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the A4WD/4HI/4LO switch.
I recently replaced the steering knuckles, upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, wheel hub/bearing assembly, brake hoses, rotors, calipers, pads, tires, and wheels. I used new factory sized wheels and new factory sized tires, and Timken wheel bearing and hub assemblies. After putting it back together i noticed that the sticker on the door frame in the drivers side door. It said that the front tires were to be at 30psi and the rears to be at 35 psi. I set my tire pressures correctly and figured what the hell I'll try putting in the 104 fuse. Guess what!!! It worked!!! Maybe its was the wheel hub assembly, it comes with new speed sensors. Maybe its the tire pressures. I really don't care, it worked!
Now i needed an alignment. I attempted to adjust the camber myself afterwards the automatic 4 wheel drive re engaged and i felt the binding especially when turning. I pulled the 104 fuse again and it didn't stop the binding. I'm taking it in for a professional alignment tomorrow. Maybe this will fix the problem. I'm hoping it's the alignment now. I'll let you know what I find out.
I have a 2000 Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the A4WD/4HI/4LO switch.
I recently replaced the steering knuckles, upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, wheel hub/bearing assembly, brake hoses, rotors, calipers, pads, tires, and wheels. I used new factory sized wheels and new factory sized tires, and Timken wheel bearing and hub assemblies. After putting it back together i noticed that the sticker on the door frame in the drivers side door. It said that the front tires were to be at 30psi and the rears to be at 35 psi. I set my tire pressures correctly and figured what the hell I'll try putting in the 104 fuse. Guess what!!! It worked!!! Maybe its was the wheel hub assembly, it comes with new speed sensors. Maybe its the tire pressures. I really don't care, it worked!
Now i needed an alignment. I attempted to adjust the camber myself afterwards the automatic 4 wheel drive re engaged and i felt the binding especially when turning. I pulled the 104 fuse again and it didn't stop the binding. I'm taking it in for a professional alignment tomorrow. Maybe this will fix the problem. I'm hoping it's the alignment now. I'll let you know what I find out.
#30