Ok, so I did a reverse flush on my cooling system. I also drained radiator and replaced all hoses (heater, upper and both lower hoses). I also replaced thermostat and installed new radiator cap.

In my OEM Ford specifications book it states my cooling system capacity is 18 qts.

So, I put 9 qts of straight anti-freeze into radiator with the intention of adding remainder of amount with distilled water thus insuring a 50/50 ratio. After adding the 9qts of anti freeze the system was full! I am puzzled by this. I expected to have some residual water in system after flush (block) but not 9 qts!! I figured I have to run the engine so it can run through system and fill all areas.

I started engine and let the thermostat open. I let it run for about 15 mins and removed rad cap. Still full. I ran it again for about 5 minutes and was only able to add a few ounces. I drove it about 2 miles and checked again by removing rad cap. I added a few more ounces.

In total I was only able to add about one pint of distilled water into system. At this pointy it appears full and there is about a 6 ounces in overflow tank.

What is going on here?
Is it possible that about 8 qts or so remained in my block?
Should I just leave it as is?

On another note.....Are heater hoses supposed to be very, very hot to the touch when engine is running at temperature? I touched mine and they were hot as He$$!!!!

 

It is possible the block didn't drain. It can sometimes happen (it happened on my 1972 F250 with the 360 engine.) If you have more than a 60/40 antifreeze mix you won't have the protection you need to prevent boiling over your cooling system or preventing it from freezing in very cold weather. Ideally a 50/50 mix is preferred as it can shed the heat more effectively and also keep your coolant from freezing even in -40 weather. I suggest you test your coolant and drain some out until you are able to get a 50/50 mix.

 

If my spec book is correct and my cooling system holds 18 qts, then I have a 50/50 ratio. I put 9 qts of straight anti freeze in system. I was just unable to add much water as described.

 

I can't add much to your question, but I'd personally just buy a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/coolant. Pre-diluted and a lot easier. Is there a reason you didn't go this route? I personally run Peak 50/50

 

The reasons I don't go that route are:

1) Pre-mix is usually only a couple of dollars cheaper (or sometimes more expensive, depending on the brand) than straight.

2) If a gallon of straight is $13 and a gallon of pre-mix is $11, I can buy the straight plus the distilled water (about $1/gallon) and get 2 gallons for about the price of 1. It's just economical.

That said, SoCalAngler - what did you flush your block with? The garden hose?

Regular tap water has chemicals (such as chlorine) and other contaminants that, over time, are bad news for your cooling system. They can cause deposit build ups, cavitation, and other problems. You might be okay for a year or two with what's in there now, but eventually it's going to cause more problems.

I know you just spent a bunch of money on antifreeze, but realistically you need to drain that coolant and fill with new, clean water and antifreeze.

When you flushed the block, did you pull the freeze plugs (also known as soft plugs)? That will help completely drain the block. Also, there's replacements that are made of rubber and expandable - very easy and efficient way to replace the freeze plugs - you just need to know the size of the hole and buy the replacement that's the right size.

 

When I flush mine I give it just air with the water valve off on the gun after the reverse flush and this will blow out the rest of the water and then put the radiator hoses back on.

I run straight anti-freeze in all my trucks and cars for the last 50 years and have never had a freeze up in -35*F or boil over in 115*F weather. This is with 25 different cars and trucks that I have had in those 50 years.

My reverse flush gun:


That is normal.
/

 

I used the cap a radiator method as described (except that no air was used) in the link below

Cap-A-Radiator

I reversed flushed with garden hose. I drained radiator. I removed all hoses and replaced t-stat.

I added 9 qts of anti freeze and it only took about 1/2 qt of distilled water. The block was probably full of tap water from garden hose flush. Does the block hold nearly 9 qts?

So, how can I remove all coolant and water as close to 100% as possible? I hate to have to flush again.

 

I would just drive it as you have it for a while. Visually check the af periodically. I am of the old school. Like you, I refuse to pay the asking price for water/af mix when I can mix it myself. I normally alternate between a gallon of af and a gallon of water when refilling a flushed system. That way it stays close to the 50/50 mix.

 

I'm concerned because the water that remained after the flush is tap water. I've heard it can cause all sorts of problems.

 

You didn't get everything out of the block. Draining the radiator will get you some of the coolant, pulling the lower hose will get more, but there is more still left in the block. I'm not familiar with your engine, but on the diesels there are two drain plugs on the block, one on each side. These have to be pulled to get everything out.

As for adding fluid, I'd pre-mix the coolant in a bucket first (preferably mixing with distilled water), then add it in. That way you know you're getting a true 50/50 mix, assuming you completely drained the system beforehand.

You're right in assuming that you won't get it all in when the system is cold. If it's completely empty and you're adding it just from the radiator cap opening, you'll need to keep the cap off and wait until the level goes down (thermostat is opening), then keep topping it off.

Mike

 

You can get one of those little cheap antifreeze testers and check your freeze/boiling point. If it tests normal you will know you had a block full of water only. If it maxes out you will know you still had water/antifreeze mix in the block OR the book was wrong.

 

I can check the mixture with the tester. Will the tap water cause problems?

The block drains are square head bolts at rear of engine just above oil pan. Real pain to loosen as no socket to fit it and an adjustable wrench wont turn due to lack of space. If I do change, any recs on how to get the drain bolts off?

If I drain radiator and engine block (engine cold) that will not remove all water (heater core, hoses, etc). How can I be sure or what can I do to ensure that ALL water has been drained?

 

Just run it and do not worry bout it. You would have to have very bad tap water to do anything anyway.
All the service station that I have worked for over the years and all of the other ones I know of only use tap water anyway.
No repair place is going to buy distilled water to put in a radiator anyway. At leat none that I ever worked for.

 

I'm running as is! As long as I change every two years I don't believe corrosion will start. Next change I'll do the engine block drain and use distilled water.

I was thinking of putting a bottle of Water Wetter in and see how it does. Any word on this stuff? Will it help with cooling AND corrosion?

Thanks

 

Yes, tap water will cause problems if it's hard (greater than 4-5 grains and loaded with calcium, magnesium and if the PH is above neutral---say about 6 or above)..........

Pressure is the only way you'll completely clear the residual water out ....