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Truck Jerking/Studdering Around 45-50 mph

 
  #211  
Old 12-02-2016, 08:51 AM
Bluegrass 7
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The transmission is electrically controlled by the computer.
There is no vacuum control of the transmission like old times.
You need to do more in depth diagnostics to see what is going on.
Use a Scanner to look. The system is designed for this next level of diagnostic.
You feel the misfire but can't determine what the cause is until you do.
First thing to look at is the fuel trim tables for being shifted as proof of a vacuum leak.
Misfire counts for ignition fault.
Good luck.
 
  #212  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:02 PM
lalberts
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I have seen Bad coil packs cause this condition
 
  #213  
Old 12-07-2016, 08:10 PM
msellers
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Many thanks Bluegrass 7...new plugs and wires did the trick... running great!
 
  #214  
Old 02-21-2017, 01:06 PM
JimmiesVixey
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i have a 1994 f-150 5.8 351w

Just like all these other posts I have seen I get a shudders right around between 30-45mph.

I have seen people recommend changing tran fluid. Others say it's a coil pack problem. i just got the truck and the previous owner told me he thought there was a miss but every time i drove it, everything was fine. but now(1 week later) it seems to be missing/shuddering like everyone else is describing.

i bought a new coil, plugs, wires distributor/cap. i plan to do the upper engine clean as described by pulling plugs and putting cleaner in the engine and letting sit over night. then bumping the engine, to get excess out, run it for 10 miles, change oil and put on all my new parts.

Any other advice on this or how to hunt down an answer would is appreciated!

thanks,
james
 
  #215  
Old 02-21-2017, 01:07 PM
JimmiesVixey
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7 View Post
Your studder is very easy to find.
It's a faulty coil.
Ask them to use a Scanner and look at the misfire monitors for each cylinder.
It's found in mode 6, test 53.
Step through to each cylinder and look at the counts.
The one with the high counts has a faulty coil.
It was never a converter issue.
Good luck.
can you reccomend a scanner? i almost bought a code reader before i read your posts about needing a scanner. but what kind should i get? can i even get a scanner for a 94? i think i can only buy a code reader from what i have read? what functions should i look for? thanks for your help
 
  #216  
Old 02-22-2017, 10:49 AM
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OBD-II Scanner

Here is what I used in August of 2014 for the modular 3 valve engine in my Mercury Mountaineer.
---------------------------
OBDLink Multiprotocol OBD-II by ScanTool WIFI Model $140

Lisle broken spark plug removal tool for Ford 3 valve engines (LIL-65600 Broken Spark Plug Remover) $70

Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket (OTC-6900 Spark Plug Socket, Ford Modular V8) $23

EAR-D026ERL Anti-Seize Compound $13
---------------------------
The scanner works with a phone, tablet or laptop with Wi-Fi. I have an app on my iPhone for it but used an old W-XP laptop.


Don't overlook the broken sparkplug removal tool! I've been changing plugs for 50+ years & thought I'm better than most and "they" must not be doing it right to break a plug. I b ought the tool anyway, just in case! These are no ordinary plugs! I broke the first one and broke into a cold sweat thinking about taking the head off to get it out. Opened the Lisle tool, read the instructions and presto, the broken remains of the plug came out. I broke 2 more before the job was complete & they came out nicely too. If I never use the tool again, it has paid for itself many times over the cost of buying it! When putting in the new plugs, I used the Earls anti-seize because it has more copper in it even though already had anti-seize in the shop. Hopefully the next guy won't have a problem getting the plugs out. The sparkplug tool was helpful too but it could have been done with a spark plug socket (which I have many) and an extension so that is the only tool I might not have bought for this project. But then the tool is one piece and some of my cheap or old extensions & sockets might have come apart deep in the valve cover making for more work to get everything out.


The scanner seems kind of expensive but it is still cheaper than taking the vehicle to a garage for a job like this (and then having them tell you they changed your trans fluid instead!)


I bought the scanner on Amazon but I see the model is no longer available. Maybe it has been replaced, didn't investigate but there is something else out there that will do the same I'm sure. The scanner showed two coils with misfires so replaced them and the vehicle ran like a clock until I sold it in January of 2015.


The rest of the stuff plus the plugs & two coils were purchased at Summit.


Good Luck and give a thanks to Bluegrass 7 for his freely given knowledge. It saved my bacon!
 
  #217  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:45 AM
JimmiesVixey
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Originally Posted by John M View Post
Here is what I used in August of 2014 for the modular 3 valve engine in my Mercury Mountaineer.
---------------------------
OBDLink Multiprotocol OBD-II by ScanTool WIFI Model $140

Lisle broken spark plug removal tool for Ford 3 valve engines (LIL-65600 Broken Spark Plug Remover) $70

Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket (OTC-6900 Spark Plug Socket, Ford Modular V8) $23

EAR-D026ERL Anti-Seize Compound $13
---------------------------
The scanner works with a phone, tablet or laptop with Wi-Fi. I have an app on my iPhone for it but used an old W-XP laptop.


Don't overlook the broken sparkplug removal tool! I've been changing plugs for 50+ years & thought I'm better than most and "they" must not be doing it right to break a plug. I b ought the tool anyway, just in case! These are no ordinary plugs! I broke the first one and broke into a cold sweat thinking about taking the head off to get it out. Opened the Lisle tool, read the instructions and presto, the broken remains of the plug came out. I broke 2 more before the job was complete & they came out nicely too. If I never use the tool again, it has paid for itself many times over the cost of buying it! When putting in the new plugs, I used the Earls anti-seize because it has more copper in it even though already had anti-seize in the shop. Hopefully the next guy won't have a problem getting the plugs out. The sparkplug tool was helpful too but it could have been done with a spark plug socket (which I have many) and an extension so that is the only tool I might not have bought for this project. But then the tool is one piece and some of my cheap or old extensions & sockets might have come apart deep in the valve cover making for more work to get everything out.


The scanner seems kind of expensive but it is still cheaper than taking the vehicle to a garage for a job like this (and then having them tell you they changed your trans fluid instead!)


I bought the scanner on Amazon but I see the model is no longer available. Maybe it has been replaced, didn't investigate but there is something else out there that will do the same I'm sure. The scanner showed two coils with misfires so replaced them and the vehicle ran like a clock until I sold it in January of 2015.


The rest of the stuff plus the plugs & two coils were purchased at Summit.


Good Luck and give a thanks to Bluegrass 7 for his freely given knowledge. It saved my bacon!
thanks for the info.

i dont have an obd2 car though. i have obd1- is there a scanner for this or can i only get a reader.

anyone have experience with the aluminium anti seize?

thanks guys
 
  #218  
Old 02-24-2017, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmiesVixey View Post
thanks for the info.

i dont have an obd2 car though. i have obd1- is there a scanner for this or can i only get a reader.

anyone have experience with the aluminium anti seize?

thanks guys
Go back and read post #204.

The discussions regarding troubleshooting in THIS conversation DO NOT APPLY to your older generation truck and engine.

You need to poke around in the forum sections that are specific to your equipment, otherwise, all you'll do is get confused and frustrated.
 
  #219  
Old 02-24-2017, 09:14 AM
JimmiesVixey
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Talking

thats what i thought but i wasnt for sure. bc my truck only has one coil right? these guys are talking about coils for each cylinder? i was confused
i still was hoping i could get something better than a flashing light to tell me what was going on though. the scanners are really nice with actual words to tell yo uthings. not just codes to go look up in a book. oh well. and im not doing the paper clip thing. its worth 30 bucks for the code reader not to have to watch the light blink at me and at least get an actual code number.

thanks,
 
  #220  
Old 02-24-2017, 10:19 AM
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Go to the correct forum section, you're only confusing yourself here because your truck is of a previous generation and this thread DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU. I cannot make it any clearer than that.
 
  #221  
Old 02-24-2017, 10:46 AM
JimmiesVixey
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ok i think you are being rude for no reason. i understand that this is not specific to my truck. i asked specific questions. my truck is doing the same thing described here but i dont see anything anywhere else that has the same problem. anyways thanks for nothing. if you dont have an answer then maybe you shouldnt respond
 
  #222  
Old 02-24-2017, 03:29 PM
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I've been pointing you to the area where you are likely to get the specific assistance from owner's of like trucks. That's not rude, it's teaching you where to find the help you need. You might take it differently, but that's YOUR perception, it's not my problem.

If you're unable to follow that simple of a set of directions, I can only wish you the best of luck.
 
  #223  
Old 02-25-2017, 06:45 AM
rsylvstr
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Do you guys find that Walmart has better fruit selection than local grocers?
 
  #224  
Old 02-25-2017, 01:34 PM
Bluegrass 7
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Jim,
Your trucks operating system is different than the 97 to 2003 systems.
From 2004 on it was changed again.
The causes of issues often change with the system change.
This is why your were advised to go to the correct forum for your year.
Scanners used on these three systems are even different.
Good luck.
 
  #225  
Old 02-25-2017, 02:17 PM
brokenleg
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Originally Posted by JimmiesVixey View Post
ok i think you are being rude for no reason. i understand that this is not specific to my truck. i asked specific questions. my truck is doing the same thing described here but i dont see anything anywhere else that has the same problem. anyways thanks for nothing. if you dont have an answer then maybe you shouldnt respond
He wasnt rude. you want answer, go to the specific forum that covers your truck. only thing that your truck has thats the same as the OPs truck is
 

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