RE: 94 (5/94) F250 Navistar IDI 7.3l turbo w/ 229K VIN K

Can someone please explain why there are so many gpc's out there that are supposed to be for this truck. They all look the same.. and even the same as most gpc's for Ford vehicles from the mid 80s up to at least 1994.

Are there significant differences in quality? Are there differences in voltage out? Are there differences in the controller under the solenoid?

Should I shop just for price, or should I look for a particular brand? Can someone refer me to a good site that has the right part? I've found one at partsgeek that is about 62 + shipping.. they also have others there that look exactly alike for different vehicles (ford econolines for example) with different part #s.

I ran into the same problem w/ injector return lines.. I've found 3 different configurations.. all for this truck. Mine requires at least 1 3way tee, and one set provides two of these and a one-way cap also.. so I don't know if that's the right one either.. as I only need one 3 way (haven't cked to see if one cap is a one-way yet). The other two sets don't contain any 3 way tees.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

subscribing

 

Well you must be better at searching then I because I can only come up with two controllers. Old style on the 6.9's and the new style with the controller box under the gp relay (solenoid). As far as pricing variances well a lot of that comes down to you get what you pay for. You may find a cheap built one for $60 and it last a year or you get a good one that will last 5 or more years. I am always very cautious on cheap replacement parts.

 

On another note I would be real cautious about buying from partsgeek. I went there and looked up your truck and controller and it shows that $61.98 controller fitting more gas rigs then diesels! I would say they do not know their parts very well!

 

And with a little testing, you may only need to replace the solenoid on the controller you have now.

30 dollars for the solenoid.

Exactly what does your controller/solenoid do now?
Are you sure the glow plugs are all within the recommended resistance value for the controller?
.5 to 1 ohm resistance for each plug.

 

I had bypassed the controller a few years ago when I was having problems; ran a line to the dash and installed a momentary switch. It's worked great til a few days ago. The truck wouldn't start, and when I watched the voltmeter, I noticed no drop with activating the switch, even though the wts light came on. I got under the hood and had my son turn the key on.. and I had 12v at both posts on the solenoid.. w/ the button not depressed and the wts light off. Pushing the button gets a sound out of the solenoid... but no change in voltage at the second post.

I would think the solenoid had stuck closed.. except that the second post isn't hot if the key is off. The only thing I can come up with is that the controller caused the effect.. even though it's "bypassed." I know there are still a few wires that come out of the box to the solenoid.. but I thought that only had to do w/ illuminating the wts light.

It seems paradoxical to me.. how can the second post on the solenoid go hot when the key is turned on but the button not activated, and then not be hot with the key off? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

My best guess would be you have burned up the GPs..... do the ohm test.

Do you know what brand GPs are in there now........ please don't say Autolite.

 

Yes, cked several by circuit (don't have a good ohm meter) and all were dead. They were m/beru zd9s.. came out real easy and every one tested negative.

That's the problem.. I'd put just another solenoid on it, but I can't blame it on the solenoid.. because both posts are hot only w/ the key on.. something else must be causing that and the solenoid might be ok, and it isn't the dash switch being shorted.. or that wire or I'd get the wts light w/ key on, and I don't.

I pulled the info on bypass procedure to go back and figure out if there's any way the controller could cause this w/ the connections that remain.. and I'm going to go out and test the solenoid again tonight independent of the controller connections.

Afraid just to put another solenoid on and find out something else was causing it, to go hot w/ the key on. Only thing that makes sense to me is the controller.. even though it's bypassed.. it's the only other connection to the solenoid.

 

So you have replaced all the gp's and they all test good now? Or are you still trying to diagnose when you know already the gp's are bad?

 

New glow plugs are in the mail.

What I was trying to figure out was whether I need to replace the gpc or just the solenoid. As stated, I bypassed the controller years ago. But w/ current problem, when key is off, the second post on the solenoid is cold. W/ key on the second post on the solenoid is hot, w/o the dash button activated.

When I bypassed the gpc, I maintained the connections to light the wts light on the dash. Is it possible that something within the gpc and those connections could cause activation of the solenoid w/ key on but dash circuit not closed?

I'll probably just leave the wires out of the black box off and just wire direct to the solenoid, and start watching the voltmeter rather instead of the wts light. It's a clear signal, and saves me the trouble of dealing w/ the controller if that's the problem. All I need is the mounting platform and the ribbon resistor.. and I have that.

 

are bosch gp's ok to put in or no?