Okay, just wanted to say thanks for the responses from my last posts. Helped out alot. Next question, I have some lighting coming in. Truck starts runs and charges, was wired to that point with the 289. There is no lighting or horn wiring at all. Would you buy the 225 dollar complete harness that the suppliers sell or go the route of making it up yourself. Or can you purchase just the lighting harness which i coudn't find. Thanks

 

I have a 1952 F1 and put the 21 circuit EZ wiring harness in it. It took me 2 days to remove the old one and install the new one with a set of dolphin gages.

 

Just googled that. Looks like a real good way to Go. Looks like you can buy right off Ez. Thanks that may be it.

 

It's a matter of personal preference.

Alot of the guys like the predone harnesses like the EZ.

Contrary to some beliefs you don't need to bundle up a bunch of wires then fight to get it routed and cut tothe right lengths.

I prefere to rewire a truck from scratch - one wire at a time. There's just not that much to do on these and it's alll WIRE - not printed circuits etc. Then you bundle it up after it's all trimmed to the right lengths, connected AND TESTED, and routed.

It's easy to do.

If all you have left to do is lights and horns then the worst part is done. Power distribution (fuse panels or the OEM circuit breakers) is usually the most difficult because it draws everything together.

Here's a diagram that will work for the lights for your 53 with an "Everlasting" signal light switch (clamps to the steering column). If you want a larger, Power Point copy send me an e-mail at babbiebuddie@***.net I have lots of wiring drawings in this group and an A-Z wiring paper that will give you step by step instructions for everything you need to do.



"HOT BUS" is 12 volt power that's always on (from hot fuse panel or whatever you are using to distribute HOT [not turned off with the ignition switch])

"SWITCHED BUS" is what youare using to supply power that gets turned on and off with the ignition switch. I use fuse panels. In an OEM wiring application the Hot Power would come off two circuit breakers attached to the instrument panel. Switched Power would come off the "ACC" post of the ignition switch.

 

Nice diagram Julie I'll use it too. Thanks!

 

I have that one and about 30 others for various components and years in Power Point. I will be more thanhappy to send them to you to use if you will send me an e-mail to the address listed above.

The nice thing about the Power Point is you can print it out, enlarge it, or change to the line colors to match those of the wires you install. In the end, you have a custome wiring diagram for yor truck.

For example, here is the 56 lights and charging drawing and one for your headlights switch (same as 51/52):

 

Julie you rock. I just came across this while searching and it is exactly what I needed. What a giant help.

 

Working in a high voltage substation with the power company, we use a lot of test blocks. I like to use about a ten point one that I mount on the fender well. I run my wires out from the dash and land them on different points on the test block. I then come off the other side to the various loads. That way I can land extra wires under the same point such as going to the parking lights front and rear. I can then use my test light on the test block to see if I have power to any given load. It makes it easy to make your own wiring harness. Just remember to use larger wire if you are staying 6 volt.

 

Send me an e-mail at babbiebuddie@***.net and I'll send you the whole bunch. They are all in Power Point so you can print, enlarge, change colors, etc.