Dana 44 TTB axle strength
#1
Dana 44 TTB axle strength
Since I stirred some coals and lit a decent fire, I might as well seek some advice on the front Dana 44 TTB in terms of strength.
I intend to have both front wheels spinning, open diff's suck. There's nothng more frusturating then seeing the wheel on dry pavement not spinning, while the wheel with power is spinning helplessly in the mud or snow.
What's the weakest link on the front axle? I've read about the inner U-joint on the passenger side having a tendency to break loose when there's too much power applied. I seem to remember someone recommended tack-welding the U-joint caps to the shaft to keep it in place.
I'm looking for the nice ride of the coil sprung independent TTB, and am not looking to do a Solid Axle Swap. I'd leave the rig 2wd, but I'm sick of shoveling the truck out. I don't do any mud bogging, just using the truck hauling junk out to the compost pile. But after it rains....well you get the idea.
I'd love to see an ARB Air Locker in the front end, but funds aren't allowing for that right now. So I'm considering welding it. I'll leave the hubs unlocked when I'm on the road, so steering won't be compromised until I lock 'em up when I hit the dirt.
I'd run the welded front end until I have the funds for the ARB.
I intend to have both front wheels spinning, open diff's suck. There's nothng more frusturating then seeing the wheel on dry pavement not spinning, while the wheel with power is spinning helplessly in the mud or snow.
What's the weakest link on the front axle? I've read about the inner U-joint on the passenger side having a tendency to break loose when there's too much power applied. I seem to remember someone recommended tack-welding the U-joint caps to the shaft to keep it in place.
I'm looking for the nice ride of the coil sprung independent TTB, and am not looking to do a Solid Axle Swap. I'd leave the rig 2wd, but I'm sick of shoveling the truck out. I don't do any mud bogging, just using the truck hauling junk out to the compost pile. But after it rains....well you get the idea.
I'd love to see an ARB Air Locker in the front end, but funds aren't allowing for that right now. So I'm considering welding it. I'll leave the hubs unlocked when I'm on the road, so steering won't be compromised until I lock 'em up when I hit the dirt.
I'd run the welded front end until I have the funds for the ARB.
#3
Makes his living off of TTB axles. This is his '74:
They are like anything else...they're as strong as you can build them.
#4
So you're converting a 2WD to 4WD?
If so, I think 4WD with a rear LSD should be enough to get you through the sane stuff with decent tires. A selectable locker would be ideal if you don't run an open carrier up front. Have you looked in the Eaton E-Locker or Ox Locker? A good locker is going to cost some cash, but it's should be something you only have to once. As long as your smart with and don't abuse it, the TTB 44 should be fine on smaller tires with limited locker use.
In your case, where you want a capable truck but aren't looking to crawl up a mountain, an Auburn ECTED or something similar in the rear with an open front may be the most effective set up per $ spent. It's a LSD in standard trim that goes to almost fully locked(from what I understand) at the push of a button. Best of both worlds...you get the street manners of a LSD with on demand locker performance when needed.
If so, I think 4WD with a rear LSD should be enough to get you through the sane stuff with decent tires. A selectable locker would be ideal if you don't run an open carrier up front. Have you looked in the Eaton E-Locker or Ox Locker? A good locker is going to cost some cash, but it's should be something you only have to once. As long as your smart with and don't abuse it, the TTB 44 should be fine on smaller tires with limited locker use.
In your case, where you want a capable truck but aren't looking to crawl up a mountain, an Auburn ECTED or something similar in the rear with an open front may be the most effective set up per $ spent. It's a LSD in standard trim that goes to almost fully locked(from what I understand) at the push of a button. Best of both worlds...you get the street manners of a LSD with on demand locker performance when needed.
#5
#6
I wouldn't put a locker in the front end unless you only plan on using it after your stuck. I had factory LSD on the front & rear of my last truck. The LSD made it hard to drive with the hubs locked so I only locked the hubs when I absolutely had to.
A locker would make this worse. Just something to think about. I wouldn't worry about a TTB front end under regular use. It's not really a bad axle.
A locker would make this worse. Just something to think about. I wouldn't worry about a TTB front end under regular use. It's not really a bad axle.
#7
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#10
Tell that to this guy: '74 F-100 Build thread "prerunner" (desert truck) LOTS of PICS
Makes his living off of TTB axles. This is his '74:
They are like anything else...they're as strong as you can build them.
Makes his living off of TTB axles. This is his '74:
They are like anything else...they're as strong as you can build them.
#12
Yea but look at all the money, time and effort he put in to that he said he didnt have the funds to get a locker what makes you think he has the funds to get all that done to his truck. That axle is almost a 1 off custom axle with some serious work done to it and the average guy isnt gunna be able to do all that by himself. Not to mention he had to build that for a prerunner to save on weight im sure hes not worried about weight seeing that hes gunna use the truck for hauling.
#13
Since I stirred some coals and lit a decent fire, I might as well seek some advice on the front Dana 44 TTB in terms of strength.
I intend to have both front wheels spinning, open diff's suck. There's nothng more frusturating then seeing the wheel on dry pavement not spinning, while the wheel with power is spinning helplessly in the mud or snow.
What's the weakest link on the front axle? I've read about the inner U-joint on the passenger side having a tendency to break loose when there's too much power applied. I seem to remember someone recommended tack-welding the U-joint caps to the shaft to keep it in place.
I'm looking for the nice ride of the coil sprung independent TTB, and am not looking to do a Solid Axle Swap. I'd leave the rig 2wd, but I'm sick of shoveling the truck out. I don't do any mud bogging, just using the truck hauling junk out to the compost pile. But after it rains....well you get the idea.
I'd love to see an ARB Air Locker in the front end, but funds aren't allowing for that right now. So I'm considering welding it. I'll leave the hubs unlocked when I'm on the road, so steering won't be compromised until I lock 'em up when I hit the dirt.
I'd run the welded front end until I have the funds for the ARB.
I intend to have both front wheels spinning, open diff's suck. There's nothng more frusturating then seeing the wheel on dry pavement not spinning, while the wheel with power is spinning helplessly in the mud or snow.
What's the weakest link on the front axle? I've read about the inner U-joint on the passenger side having a tendency to break loose when there's too much power applied. I seem to remember someone recommended tack-welding the U-joint caps to the shaft to keep it in place.
I'm looking for the nice ride of the coil sprung independent TTB, and am not looking to do a Solid Axle Swap. I'd leave the rig 2wd, but I'm sick of shoveling the truck out. I don't do any mud bogging, just using the truck hauling junk out to the compost pile. But after it rains....well you get the idea.
I'd love to see an ARB Air Locker in the front end, but funds aren't allowing for that right now. So I'm considering welding it. I'll leave the hubs unlocked when I'm on the road, so steering won't be compromised until I lock 'em up when I hit the dirt.
I'd run the welded front end until I have the funds for the ARB.
I'll tell you this, for 95% of people, a front locker (or welded front carrier) is just plain unnecessary. A good locker in the back, an open front carrier, and good tires will get you through virtually anything. Unless you are building a mud racer or hardcore offroader (and it doesn't sound like you have the budget for the hardcore version) just leave the front open.
A locker will add stress to the front axle and depending on tire size, this might not be something you want.
A D44 will hold up under a reasonable amount of abuse with an open carrier and 33" or 35" tires. If you weld it, don't go larger than 33".
This is all IMO... others' experience may vary slightly.
#14
My 0.02 USD worth . . .
You know, I don't want to come off sounding like a horse's behind but a LS in not needed up front unless you're doing some serious wheeling or rock climbing.
(USAF nasty weather driving school 101)
When one wheel finds itself with no traction, I.E. one on pavement, one in mud/snow/sand, a gentle application of the service brakes will 'energize' (that's what they said!) the differential. Now that the tire with no traction is being slowed, the tire with good traction will receive the torque and move the vehicle.
(/school)
Mid-70's mandatory lecture, Lowry AFB, Colorado. I used the information from the lecture that very winter in a 4X4 Travelall. Works like a charm. And by the way, that big-@$$ rig had D44's on both ends. IIRC, the front was a closed knuckle, too. Needed a block to turn around.
Ray
(USAF nasty weather driving school 101)
When one wheel finds itself with no traction, I.E. one on pavement, one in mud/snow/sand, a gentle application of the service brakes will 'energize' (that's what they said!) the differential. Now that the tire with no traction is being slowed, the tire with good traction will receive the torque and move the vehicle.
(/school)
Mid-70's mandatory lecture, Lowry AFB, Colorado. I used the information from the lecture that very winter in a 4X4 Travelall. Works like a charm. And by the way, that big-@$$ rig had D44's on both ends. IIRC, the front was a closed knuckle, too. Needed a block to turn around.
Ray
#15