I'm planning to replace the rear main seal on my truck when I change my transmission. This seal needs to be carefully installed or it will leak. My hands are no longer steady enough anymore to try just tapping one in. I was looking for the tool to do the job but it runs about $100 for it. Autozoo does not have one to loan. I was wondering if someone had any tips about making an installation tool.

 

I just finished installing one the other week on my 5.0L. It's a pretty robust seal from what I could tell. I just used a LOT of grease and tapped it in with a small mallet.

Maybe not the answer you were looking for, but there really wasn't any finessing required. No leaks either.

 

I may just have to try tapping it in as you did if I don't get any better ideas. I have some huge sockets that may work also as an installation tool. That's usually what I end up using in many instances.

 

Old thread, I know, but how did this work out for you? I'm about to change mine in my 95 and I'm wondering if a special tool would make the job easier---especially since I am leaving the engine in.

 

I think I just tapped it in very carefully. I know Ii didn't use any special tools. Wow it's been almost 10 years ago. Rime flies.

 

Sir,

Take the new seal to the plumbing ABS isle of your hardware store.

Get a piece of ABS pipe with a threaded on cap that fits the seal perfectly.

Put some 5w30 all over it and set it up straight over the crank, put your HOME DEPOT F150 custom seal driver A1 over it and give it a good couple smacks.

The one I use every time is 4" inside diameter and 4.5" outer diameter. It has a twist on cap with a square nub on top.

It was about 3 bucks CAD

 

A piece of 4" schedule 40 PVC fits it perfectly... just oil it up and tap it in. I installed one this way yesterday.

 

I have a 3" to 4" PVC pipe adapter/union. Fits perfectly. Question, how does one know when the seal is fully seated?

 

I usually just tap it gently until it won't seat any further.

 

Ok. I was unable to position my pvc tool due to being mounted on engine stand. Instead I used the blunt end of a 1/4" ratchet extension and a ball peen hammer. It seemed to work except it left several divots/marks on the rear face of the seal. This is not a problem right? Only if it were punctured or the sides of seal were marked, would it be a problem..?

 

I'm sorry. I can't really say if that will cause problems or not.

 

this may not make since, but it will go from a hollow sound on each hit, to a firm/ solid sound, and you'll know the difference when you hear it, as far as the little dents, can you tell if it made its shape change next to the rubber seal, if not it should be ok, have pic?