76 hiboy tear down resto mod build thread
#61
got some more good work done today. motor bolted in the mounts and the trans temporally bolted up so we can mock up the 2 cross members. i cut the first one out, still debating how to go about making it clear bottom of the engine. got the second one pretty much figured out i think.
motr in
motor with trans
for the rear cross member we are going to use the original. and just relocate the brackets farther back.
to my surprise, the little isolator bracket thinger bolted right up from the 435 to the zf
ground down the heads of these rivets then beat them out with a hammer
originally, the xmember sat the tranny slightly off set but with the new motor and trans it needs to centered so we had to put in a new bushing
motr in
motor with trans
for the rear cross member we are going to use the original. and just relocate the brackets farther back.
to my surprise, the little isolator bracket thinger bolted right up from the 435 to the zf
ground down the heads of these rivets then beat them out with a hammer
originally, the xmember sat the tranny slightly off set but with the new motor and trans it needs to centered so we had to put in a new bushing
#62
#64
im no expert but im pretty sure they could be. these just use 3 bolts in an L pattern. i can take a pic next time for you if you think it would help
#65
thanks, if i kept mine gas id be way farther then i am but thats no fun. i have many planes and engines in this hanger
#67
#69
#71
well i been pluging a way this week. pulled the rear wheels and hubs off which was pretty easy once i had the right sized socket. then i pulled the entire shoe assay off and set it aside. i was quite confused when i t came to pulling the drums off the hubs i felt pretty stupid. didn't realize you had to knock the studs out to separate the 2, who in the hell came up with that BS?
any way here the pics
got my needle scalier this week to so ive been doing that a lil at a time. works really well, should pay for its self on this project alone.
the "cleaned" half is on the right
messing around with some electrolysis
spent the day today working on cross members. got the rear all finished, ended up using the stock x member and moved it back and down with 2 half inch spacers i made from aluminum.
the middle one i have all figured out to make it removable, pretty much we removed these rivets and replaced the with bolts, then added tabs to the section i cut out. gives me clearance room and is removable
didnt have any bolts to bolt it up and i have to pull the trans to get the one rivet out so that will be next time
any way here the pics
got my needle scalier this week to so ive been doing that a lil at a time. works really well, should pay for its self on this project alone.
the "cleaned" half is on the right
messing around with some electrolysis
spent the day today working on cross members. got the rear all finished, ended up using the stock x member and moved it back and down with 2 half inch spacers i made from aluminum.
the middle one i have all figured out to make it removable, pretty much we removed these rivets and replaced the with bolts, then added tabs to the section i cut out. gives me clearance room and is removable
didnt have any bolts to bolt it up and i have to pull the trans to get the one rivet out so that will be next time
#72
The results from the needle scaler look similar to a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Is the scaler better?
Also, I have used electrolysis and it works great! The parts might still looked caked, but something like a screwdriver or putty knife will take off the heavy stuff in chunks, no problem.
Also, I have used electrolysis and it works great! The parts might still looked caked, but something like a screwdriver or putty knife will take off the heavy stuff in chunks, no problem.
#74
The results from the needle scaler look similar to a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Is the scaler better?
Also, I have used electrolysis and it works great! The parts might still looked caked, but something like a screwdriver or putty knife will take off the heavy stuff in chunks, no problem.
Also, I have used electrolysis and it works great! The parts might still looked caked, but something like a screwdriver or putty knife will take off the heavy stuff in chunks, no problem.
im still up in the air with the steering.
#75
Great Thread! Excellent photos and commentary.
If you are going at the frame with a needle scaler I think it will take a looong time.
Have you considered taking the frame, etc to a commercial sandblaster? It will cost you a few hundred bucks but they will be able to blast places that you can't get to. The frame should come back really nice (assuming they do a good job).
Speaking from experience sandblasting is a miserable job. At least when I've done it. I think it's worth it to pay someone else to do it.
If you are going at the frame with a needle scaler I think it will take a looong time.
Have you considered taking the frame, etc to a commercial sandblaster? It will cost you a few hundred bucks but they will be able to blast places that you can't get to. The frame should come back really nice (assuming they do a good job).
Speaking from experience sandblasting is a miserable job. At least when I've done it. I think it's worth it to pay someone else to do it.