Last edit by: IB Cristina
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Rear end bounces @ 40-45 MPH
#706
Its been many years since I posted but I still get updates when someone adds to this thread. I got rid of my hopping nightmare in 2012. The sales manager at the Ford dealership where I traded the truck bought my truck. He says it still hops at 47 mph. He says it's annoying but he's learned to live with it. I spoke to him about a month ago. He recalls all of the attempts to remedy the situation to no avail.
#708
#709
No, I haven't, waiting for Ford C/S to see if Ford will pick up the tab since it is so well documented in my case.
I am not holding my breath that it would work since they tried this back in the 2005-2007 time frame. But hell I surely will give it a try.
#710
Interesting update, I've been watching this thread for years. I previously attempted to get help thru the dealership service dept. It ended when I refused to buy a new set of tires because they thought my aftermarket wheels/tires were the problem. (Even though they sold it to me with these wheels/tires) I asked to swap tires from a new truck as a test before I lay out the cash and was denied...
Anyway, I called my local dealership service dept asking about this. I said I have a truck I believe falls under this TSB and still has extended warranty. They told me if this TSB applies, I would get a letter from Ford telling me to bring it in. She would not take the TSB number and look it up, to proactively determine if it applies to my vehicle. Once again disappointed by Ford service. Thanks anyway.
Anyway, I called my local dealership service dept asking about this. I said I have a truck I believe falls under this TSB and still has extended warranty. They told me if this TSB applies, I would get a letter from Ford telling me to bring it in. She would not take the TSB number and look it up, to proactively determine if it applies to my vehicle. Once again disappointed by Ford service. Thanks anyway.
#711
Interesting update, I've been watching this thread for years. I previously attempted to get help thru the dealership service dept. It ended when I refused to buy a new set of tires because they thought my aftermarket wheels/tires were the problem. (Even though they sold it to me with these wheels/tires) I asked to swap tires from a new truck as a test before I lay out the cash and was denied...
Anyway, I called my local dealership service dept asking about this. I said I have a truck I believe falls under this TSB and still has extended warranty. They told me if this TSB applies, I would get a letter from Ford telling me to bring it in. She would not take the TSB number and look it up, to proactively determine if it applies to my vehicle. Once again disappointed by Ford service. Thanks anyway.
Anyway, I called my local dealership service dept asking about this. I said I have a truck I believe falls under this TSB and still has extended warranty. They told me if this TSB applies, I would get a letter from Ford telling me to bring it in. She would not take the TSB number and look it up, to proactively determine if it applies to my vehicle. Once again disappointed by Ford service. Thanks anyway.
#712
I don't have much confidence after my previous attempts failed, even with help of the customer service rep that posts here. It seems like the service dept is focused on making money, getting people in/out, and not ensuring they are satisfied.
Doing a search on "what is a TSB", it says dealerships are not required to perform TSB work and are not reimbursed for the cost. Therefore it appears to be a gamble if someone wants to pay for the work, it "might" fix/help the problem. I'll wait and watch here in the event someone has positive results on this, and maybe consider it for a DIY job.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techni...rvice_Bulletin
Dealers are usually under no mandate to call in cars for which there are TSBs to do the related repairs. Nor is there an obligation to do the TSB repairs for free or at reduced charges to the owner, since the manufacture does not require the repair to be performed and does not reimburse the dealership for repairs.
Doing a search on "what is a TSB", it says dealerships are not required to perform TSB work and are not reimbursed for the cost. Therefore it appears to be a gamble if someone wants to pay for the work, it "might" fix/help the problem. I'll wait and watch here in the event someone has positive results on this, and maybe consider it for a DIY job.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techni...rvice_Bulletin
Dealers are usually under no mandate to call in cars for which there are TSBs to do the related repairs. Nor is there an obligation to do the TSB repairs for free or at reduced charges to the owner, since the manufacture does not require the repair to be performed and does not reimburse the dealership for repairs.
#713
A TSB is just a bulletin for authorized service centers (dealerships). A note. A memo. It just says hey heads up here's a thing that might happen, just be aware of it. It's essentially educational, so people don't have to re-solve the problem from scratch every time. It's very different than a recall.
#714
Under this TSB, the part and work is covered under warranty. May only be the 3yr/36000 mile warranty that covers the work.
WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.
The original TSB can be seen here
NEW VIBRATION AND HOPPING TSB - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.
The original TSB can be seen here
NEW VIBRATION AND HOPPING TSB - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
#715
Truck hop
2016 F450 Dually, 3k miles with factory 26k hitch rear hops right at 40mph then stops at about 42-43mph. The rear hop problem is exactly as this thread describes. Doesn't matter what road and very consistent. I do not remember this before changing out the original tires with new Goodyear g622 traction set 225/70/19.5
Goodyear very kindly had all four rear tires relaced. Front feels very smooth so we didn't touch the front tires.
Same problem.... rear hop at 40mph
Road force balanced left outter, left inner then right inner then ought oh... right outter was way out of spec. 110psi.. tried 5 tires with the lowest psi coming in at 80... way too high.
Tire man flipped the tire on the wheel and then we saw 39psi. Everyone said don't touch it
That's the best we've seen on that rim.
Everything mounted and road test felt much better but still some bounce or hop at 40mph.
Reduced tire pressure to 60psi and maybe felt a little better.
This still annoys me at 40mph and comes back again at about 65mph but at least now it is drivable.
I told the dealer I suspect a faulty rim/wheel on the rear outside and told him the story. He said if it was smooth before you replaced the tires, it's not the vehicle. Each wheel cost $1,300
The tire shop checked the rim for runout and it looked perfect but I later thought about the center hole and what if it was slightly offset.
I wonder if it is a dealer trick to put the new vehicle tire pressure low when there is a bumpy ride so the customer will think and feel a very smoother ride during the initial test drive.
What's left for me is purchase a replacement rim on my own or try a tire shave to make the tire roundness perfect, or live with it.
When approaching 40mph, it is so obvious the hop is coming from the right rear.
Next, we'll try swapping the outter rear and see if the hop follows.
Goodyear very kindly had all four rear tires relaced. Front feels very smooth so we didn't touch the front tires.
Same problem.... rear hop at 40mph
Road force balanced left outter, left inner then right inner then ought oh... right outter was way out of spec. 110psi.. tried 5 tires with the lowest psi coming in at 80... way too high.
Tire man flipped the tire on the wheel and then we saw 39psi. Everyone said don't touch it
That's the best we've seen on that rim.
Everything mounted and road test felt much better but still some bounce or hop at 40mph.
Reduced tire pressure to 60psi and maybe felt a little better.
This still annoys me at 40mph and comes back again at about 65mph but at least now it is drivable.
I told the dealer I suspect a faulty rim/wheel on the rear outside and told him the story. He said if it was smooth before you replaced the tires, it's not the vehicle. Each wheel cost $1,300
The tire shop checked the rim for runout and it looked perfect but I later thought about the center hole and what if it was slightly offset.
I wonder if it is a dealer trick to put the new vehicle tire pressure low when there is a bumpy ride so the customer will think and feel a very smoother ride during the initial test drive.
What's left for me is purchase a replacement rim on my own or try a tire shave to make the tire roundness perfect, or live with it.
When approaching 40mph, it is so obvious the hop is coming from the right rear.
Next, we'll try swapping the outter rear and see if the hop follows.
#716
#718
#719
FIXED MY BED HOP!
This may not fix everyones, but mine is completely gone now and it only cost me $20.
My truck came with new aftermarket wheels on it. The wheels are lugcentric meaning the conical lug nuts are supposed to center the wheel on the hub. I never did care for this design as my 8500lb truck was sitting on just the lugs. I did some research and found the hub diameter of my wheel, and diameter of the truck hub, there was a 5mm difference ID to OD. So, I ordered the proper HUBCENTRIC RING from the first website I could find. 130mm to 125mm. Costs $20. They fit perfectly in my wheel bore, and mounted the wheel perfectly to the hub when I did my tire rotation. I could spin the wheel on the truck with no lugnuts on it and it would spin perfectly. So, the wheels are all now perfectly centered, the truck is riding on the hubs like it should, and I'm driving down the road BOUNCE FREE AT ANY SPEED on 38" mud terrains.
I HIGHLY recommend anyone with an aftermarket wheel to do what I did, find the dimensions of the wheel bore and hub, and get a ring to fit accordingly.
This may not fix everyones, but mine is completely gone now and it only cost me $20.
My truck came with new aftermarket wheels on it. The wheels are lugcentric meaning the conical lug nuts are supposed to center the wheel on the hub. I never did care for this design as my 8500lb truck was sitting on just the lugs. I did some research and found the hub diameter of my wheel, and diameter of the truck hub, there was a 5mm difference ID to OD. So, I ordered the proper HUBCENTRIC RING from the first website I could find. 130mm to 125mm. Costs $20. They fit perfectly in my wheel bore, and mounted the wheel perfectly to the hub when I did my tire rotation. I could spin the wheel on the truck with no lugnuts on it and it would spin perfectly. So, the wheels are all now perfectly centered, the truck is riding on the hubs like it should, and I'm driving down the road BOUNCE FREE AT ANY SPEED on 38" mud terrains.
I HIGHLY recommend anyone with an aftermarket wheel to do what I did, find the dimensions of the wheel bore and hub, and get a ring to fit accordingly.
#720
Hub Centric Ring
I watched a video about Super duty rear bounce and they showed a hub ring to align the wheel and take up space.
During the last go-around at the tire store, I watched for hub play as they placed the wheels. Looked good.
It could be this hop problem is not just the result of one cause but could be several and unique to each vehicle.
That could be why it seems so elusive.
During the last go-around at the tire store, I watched for hub play as they placed the wheels. Looked good.
It could be this hop problem is not just the result of one cause but could be several and unique to each vehicle.
That could be why it seems so elusive.