I have an engine stand to place the engine on. Hopefully tomorrow I can show some pictures with the engine mounted on it. I do take care of my stuff and that's why i decided to pull the engine and fix the minor oil leaks besides the HGs. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what I should do with the heads when I pull them. The engine runs strong and the oil has been change regularly. The truck does not burn oil. I know I am going to have the heads checked for flatness, but wondering if i should replace valve seals? check the valves? any recommendations on what I should do to the heads while they are in the machine shop.

 

There is absolutely no reason not to have the valve seals replaced and the seats lapped or even re-cut being that you are this far into it. I would hate to see a seal go later on if you neglected to replace it. Unless of course you wanna do this again. th_insane-1.gif?t=1289551126

If it was me I'd be porting & polishing too. And depending on what the cylinders looked like I'd consider doing rings and all. I mean heck, the things gonna be on an engine stand. Might as well do a full rebuild. It sure ain't gonna hurt.

 

Do not "check" the heads for flatness, take them to your local machine shop and have them milled, no more than .008 or they are junk. Checking for flatness does not take into account if they are bowed or twisted. New heads are not even flat at times.

 

I agree with Maxium. Take them to a proper machine shop that does these. Your book should have the min specs for the heads in it. Do the valve job.

I would do the upper, but I would not pull the pistons and do all that. Just fix the oil leaks.

 

This is going to be a fantastic thread. I'll be watching.

The best part about the pictures, if you take them often and take them well... When you can't figure out where that wire or hose goes just flip through the pictures and you'll figure it out! I do the same thing with "big" tasks. Sometimes even the pictures make things confusing.

 

I would have labeled the less the obvious wires/connections, but since he has the shop manuals it should be ok.

Great idea.

 

Engine Removal Day 3: Had a few buddies over to help pull the engine. Definitely need to have the cherry picker close to the engine, not a lot of room under neath the engine cowling. It took a few hours just set up the cherry picker and to get the chain nice and short to have enough room to get the engine out. It's a tight fit and talked about pulling the oil pan but got it out without tearing anything up. Used a floor jack from under neither to help get the motor over the cross member. Once it was out bolted it up to the engine stand. Said it was rate for 1000 lbs. Did not trust it and put a block of wood under neither the front of the motor. Once the motor was out, easy access to the heads and covers. Followed the book and everything came off pretty smoothly. To get the injector electrical plugs out of the head, the book says you need a special tool. Just used a 19 mm socket to push the clips in and push down. Got 20 hrs or so in this projector. Tomorrow I will pull the glow plugs and try to find a good machine shop to do the work on the heads.

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I am going to replace the front cover gasket, bed plate gasket and oil pan gasket. I was wonder if there are any techs out there, how do they like to install these gaskets. Dry? Some type of gasket sealer?

 

use grey silicon (use only grey ford part number is ta-29) at the t-joints of the front and rear cover as well as the hpop cover. the bed plate uses an Anaerobic Gasket Maker and lay.... lay a thin bead on both the block and bed plate, then set the worm gasket in the bed plate and install the bed plate on the block.
just fair warning some of the specs in the workshop book way be outdated. the online book is best. the second best would be the last release of the cd/dvd

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/974064-my-ride.html dont know if these pics will help you are not as well.

 

Don't forget the cleaner/primer for the anaerobic sealer.

 

there really is not one. just an alcohol free cleaner. most brake cleaner will work

 

I'd keep that block covered up as best you can to keep any dust out of it when not working on it.

So far a great job!

 

Cheez-it thanks for the reply. I looked at your pictures. Nice Truck! You left a lot more stuff on the engine then I did like the intake manifold. I also saw that you had the the right kind of engine puller so you did not have the clearance issues on top of the motor. Unfortunately I could not find that set up, so I took almost everything off the motor to make it easier to get out. Regarding the PC work manual, I have an apple computer and those discs are for PC only. I will get the silicone sealer from Ford and gaskets. I do have the motor covered up but some crud did fall into the cylinders when I was pulling the heads. I figured I would try to blow it out when I have the engine upside down.

 

Are you sure? When I was assembling my 60hp evinrude crank case it called for an activator/primer/cleaner. Something about the anaerobic sealer not curing with aluminum.

 

no part of were that sealer goes is aluminum. both the block and bed plate are cast iron and yes I sure