TY! The paint is Ford factory color paint code YW, the dark gray in the 2 tone silver/gray combo. The paint is 2 stage "Value Pro" Basecoat, mixed 1 to 1, which is made by PPG, the clear is Value Pro Multi Purpose clear, mixed 4 to 1, the guns are harbor freight HVLP guns, with 1.4 tips, and a water filter and pressure regulator on the end of the gun, in addition there is a water filter at the air connection on the wall, and also one at the compressor. The air is set at 60psi at the compressor water filter, and after the drop thru the plumbing in the garage and hose, is running 50psi constant at the gun. The primer is a Dupont (dont remember the number) mixed approximately 1:4 with lacquer thinner. The reason I use a lacquer based primer instead of a urethane primer is the lacquer base can handle having putty spread on top of it without lifting. The urethane primer at times wants to lift with the putty spread over the top of it. By layering the primer at times while working any dents, the sander will show hi and low spots easier

 

So know we now we know the formula, when are you going to teac hus all the technique?

 

Good God, that thing was a POS when you started. The paint/body is lookin' great now!!

 

TY, it wasn't a total POS when I started, tho, more of a "trusty but rusty", as the 460 has always been ready to fire off and do what I ask of it, whether is was road trips from Ohio to Fla for vacation, or hauling 3000lbs plus of Cummins N14 in the bed down the highway at 70mph.

There is no secret to the technique involved. Its all patience and practice. Patience in doing the body work, multiple thin layers of putty, rather than 1 heavy layer, and marking every ding you see with a magic marker as you go along so you can spot them later. And practice in laying down the paint, you can even get practice with the paint by using spray can and old hood or trunk lid from a JY. Get a feel for what the paint should look like when you spray it on, not to thin, not to heavy. Your local supplier can help make a difference too. In this case, I had used Dupont products for years, but it had also been several years since my last paint job on the Harley. When I went by the local Dupont jobber, as soon as they found out I was a walk in do-it-yourselfer doing just one job for myself, they pretty much blew me off. The local PPG jobber was the exact opposite, took the time to talk about what I was wanting, different materials that have been developed since I last did a paint job, and any other question I could think to ask. Made the difference between buying one brand or another to me, and made a sale and a customer for him.

 

L. Ward, I'm getting ready to fix the rear upper wheel arches on my truck, any specific Ideas on what to/ not to do?

My plan of action was-
1-Mock up the replacement to the actual bed to check for fitment issues, etc and to mark out a line to follow when I cut the old piece out.

2-Sand the paint on the bed back away from the work area, tach new arches in (As tach welds are easily ground off)

3-Start welding the arch in using the cross-tach technique to reduce warpage (By cross tach, I mean to make a series of tach welds by going from end to end, and not use one continous weld)

4-Use a grinder to remove the excess weld materials and to smooth everything as much as possible.

5-Fill with as little body filler as possible, sand, primer and paint.....

Does that sound about right?

 

im going to follow this build this truck is going to be f...ing amazing

 

X2........

 

1-Mock up the replacement to the actual bed to check for fitment issues, etc and to mark out a line to follow when I cut the old piece out.

That is the way to do it, you may also find it helpful to trim the extreme lower portion of the lip off of the original panel to help the new one lay flat when placing it for the mock up.

2-Sand the paint on the bed back away from the work area, tach new arches in (As tach welds are easily ground off)

3-Start welding the arch in using the cross-tach technique to reduce warpage (By cross tach, I mean to make a series of tach welds by going from end to end, and not use one continous weld)

Once again, you are on the right track, HOWEVER, unless you are really comfortable with your welding skills, I would consider using Fusor to install the panel. While butt welding a panel in is the strongest, it's also one of the trickiest ways to put a patch panel in. Even by working in back and forth small stitches at low heat settings you can still end up warping a panel, also, it doesn't take much for a panel to shift and then you have bigger issues in the panel not looking or laying correctly. The other way to do it is to mock the panel in and mark the trim area, then, move the mark IN about 1/2" and trim the area out. Take a Panel flanger (you can get them online, either as a tool that fits in an air chisel, or as a complete are powered unit. You can also get an air powered one at Harbor Freight) and make a flange on the existing bed panel. The patch panel will now lay flush with the exising panel, with the flanged area below the patch panel. Once you are happy with the fit, take some sheet metal screws and mount the panel in place. If it all looks good, take the Fusor (its a 2 part compound, applied with what looks like a modified grease gun) and lay a bead of it on the flange, remount the patch with the sheet metal screws and let it all dry. Once it is dry, remove the screws, sand off any Fusor that squeezed out of the repair area. Then fill the holes and lay a thin layer of filled around the repair area. Using a air file (17" flat plate sander) sand the filler down in an up and down motion allowing the plate to follow the contours of the bedside to match the filler into the body lines.

4-Use a grinder to remove the excess weld materials and to smooth everything as much as possible.

5-Fill with as little body filler as possible, sand, primer and paint.....

The rest is on the money.

 

thanks man, I'm pretty comfy with my welding....I just was wondering if ya had any tips, etc....The cheapest place I've been QUOTED for the job was no less the $550, and that's without bodyfilling........And I get to use my uncles' shop for just the cost of the gas for the MIG welder...So for that deal I can stand a minor fitment issue... Lol. Also, would you recommend replacing just the arches in the front fenders or just replacing the whole fender? While the arches are cheaper, it's a lot easier to just replace the whole fender IMO....I'm just gonna take my time and try to do as much body work on my own and just have the body guy do just a final once over sand and paint.....

And btw, Car-Quests' spray paint brand PlastiKote is freakin' awesome....Kinda pricey at $6.50 per can, but it is a very thick type paint (Which DRASTICALLY reduces orange peel and runs) and covers great.....After that lil discovery, it's the only primr and paint I will use....

 

If its just the arch, I would probably just do the patch, as the whole bedsides are not cheap. Take your time welding, and heat shrink as you go along to keep warpage down.

 

Can do....Thanks again....As said before, I sure wish ya lived closer.....After having to repair my fiberglass hood, I can safely say that I am becoming more self reliant on these matters.....

 

Uh Huh, It doesn't seem so difficult now, but I think I may start small and do something that is not my entire truck first, let's see, now who do I know with a bike...

 

Step back from my harley and slowly put the DA sander down!!!

 

*clicks safety off*....."Now get on your knees and say Uncle..."

"Oh no?"

*Clicks clip release* *Said clip falls on floor*

"Ohhhhh crap....

*Runs*


Seperating a man from his Harley is like seperating Ford logos' and blue......

 

Got bored this morning and took the video camera out when I went to fire the thing up before I went to run some errands.


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Yes, at the 1:49ish mark, it actually torques in the frame hard enough to rock the truck forward a couple inches while in park.