I just had my 92 f150 4x4 in the shop because it started leaking quite a bit of oil kinda suddenly. They said that my oil pan had some rust blisters that were leaking and would cost about $600 to replace because they had to lift the engine out to replace the pan. And they also said there was some oil leaking out of the rear of the intake manifold gasket and running down the left rear of the engine. The estimate for that was about $500 to fix. Since I don't really have the money right now I was wondering if anybody knew or had any suggestions of possible temporary fixes or anything really at all would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.

 

Drain the pan and let it drain over night. Wire wheel the rust spots. Hit it with brake clean. wipe dry and put a layer of JB weld over the spots, then paint when dry. It should prolong the enevidable

 

Yea I've done the same with silicone, lasted for a couple years, trans died so replaced oil pan at same time.

Not a uncommon issue around here, I put a motor in or a replacement pan on it starts out a new one. Prime and paint it first, then touch up paint once in. Then use rust proofing from a rattle can to cover the paint so it won't happen again.

And no way I'd consider paying them prices for that work, nothing technical about either repair, just "work".

Work can be done with basic hand tools, just take your time cleaning the surfaces and getting the new gaskets in place correctly. Then start all the bolts just a couple turns first by hand leaving them all loose, once they are all started right then tighten to spec as directed in diagram. (As always start from the center working your way out, zig zag side to side as you go.)

A cheap chiltions or haynes type service manual will tell ya any little additional details that you might want to know. For example, what needs to come off and in what order to get the job done. How tight to tighten each fastener and in what order etc etc.

 

I degrease new pan and use a scuff pad on it. Spray with Duplicolor bed liner. Then paint with engine color.

 

Thanks guys for your help and suggestions.
I'll definately do that as soon as I can.

 

That trick will definitely work! Clean scuff and respray the pan with paint and it will last almost indefinitely!! I did that trick 3 years ago on the N14 in my Peterbilt when it started weeping oil at a soft spot. Peterbilt wanted $1000 for the pan, plus labor and wait for it to be shipped in!!

I cleaned it and JB'd it and went on down the road. Last summer when I pulled the motor for a out of frame overhaul, I pressure washed the pan, sanded it and repainted it right over the existing JB repair as there was no need to fix what wasnt broken (or leaking)

 

Yep, I did this a year ago, the only thing different I did, was I ran some paint thinner in, to sort of rinse the inside of the pan, in hopes that all the oil was out.

 

New to this site. Alot of helpful info tho. I have a 94 f250 super duty with a 351 and the oil pan is totally rusted along with a leaking rear mail seal. Someone attempted to change oil pan and broke 2 bolts off above crossmember( not alot of room to drill and try to ezy out or retap straight). My question is do you think I will be better to pull the motor or will I have enough room? Also can i raise and push the motor forward enough to replace the seal. It seems as tho by myself with a floor jack and two hands I won't be able to slide the tranny and xfer case back(alot of weight and not balanced). Any info or tricks to help me out? THANKS

 

you may want to start a new thread about this, but I'd say you may want to plan to pull it. Removing those broken bolts will be a lot easier that way. And it's got to be better than dropping the transmission on your head.

2 years now on JB weld.

Looks like I Need to update my sig file...F150 is up to 127k, while the Hyundai is up to 92k and the Honda has been gone for a couple years!

 

jb weld is an awesome temp fix, but its not a good idea to do it for a prolonged period of time. a deteriorating oil pan is obviously gonna release rust particles, flakes, and/or chunks into your oiling system. im all about good epoxy to fix just about anything, but i wouldnt be willing to run it for a prolonged period of time on a deteriorating oil pan.

all that bein said, i just bought a new 351 oil pan off ebay for 65 bucks.

 

I just had to fix a rusted pan in a truck and there was NO WAY i was gonna pull the engine.

I drained the oil and let it sit 24hours. The sprayed brake clean up in the pan to rinse it. Took a grinder w wire brush and cleaned the sump and took a hand wire brush and did the rest.. Brazed the 2 holes up. Painted 2 heavy coats of POR on the entire pan. I bet it will outlast the truck

 

you dont HAVE to pull the motor to replace an oil pan (depending on what your definition of "pulling" is i suppose), but you can unhook the motor mounts and either jack or pick the motor up to sneak the pan out, leaving everything but motor mounts attached.

besides that, i fully agree there are some jobs just not worth doing on a particular vehicle. . .when the job effort/cost isnt justified by the shape of the vehicle. some junker truck gets the easiest and cheapest fixes (i.e. the "F it" fixes like epoxy on rusted pans, where its a 2 min $5 fix vs a 2-3 hour + cost of pan fix)

 

There is no way to pull the pan out of a diesel or a big block with out having the engine half tore apart, the trans out and the motor picked up out of the mounts. So it got cleaned and painted.
Small blocks are a different story

 

ahh. shoulda known thats what you were talkin about. . .point taken.