Recently my 93 Ranger has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. ***This only happens after the engine goes completely cold***
I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine. Hoping someone could help with this before I ruin 1st gear...

 

Welcome to FTE.

Post up All trouble code Numbers the tranny shop found, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

Did this problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event???
Is the tranny fluid in good condition, at the proper level when at operating temp & is it the specified fluid type???

Does it act out if you manually shift from 1-2-Drive???

 

Do transmisssions still have "band" adjustments to be made to them, or is everything electronic now? Have not looked at the wifes '07 Escape to see if you can still make an adjustment like an "intermediate band", by tightening a locked screw on the side off the trans, and then back off so many turns. Just asking???

 

pawpaw, ty for responding. I don't really know what to make of the tranny shop. I dropped it off at 7am. Had to call them at 4pm and he said there was nothing wrong with the transmission, possibly an emission issue. No paperwork, no codes, no fee??.
A different site recommended checking the shift control module on the tranny, maybe a vacume leak, or a temp sensor.

when I start off with a cold engine 1st gear hits about 4000rpms before shifting into 2nd, and then it jumps very quickly to 3rd.
Once it gets into 4th/5th overdrive it wont do it again unless the engine goes cold or sits for awhile....
It will act normal if I shift manually until I go into 3rd or "D". Then its like theres no gears at all.
Not sure what to check

 

OK, no trouble codes to report, so what about the other questions in post #2.

 

The bands are not made to be adjusted these days. If the band wears enough to start slipping, it means the friction material is just about gone. So if you tighten it, it won't be long before the metal meets metal, and the band will cut into the drum, destroying both parts and spreading metal debris throughout the trans. If the band is lose, it needs to be replaced.

Maintenance is everything, get your fluid changed out by dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Use Mercon V fluid, not a multitrans fluid formula. Don't do a flush (dynamic fluid exchange is ok). These transmissions require new fluid every 30,000 miles or so, you are probably way over that right now. It probably wouldn't hurt to check or replace the vacuum modulator as well. Its a cheap part, and its known to fail, and it can cause a loss of fluid if it does, and can affect the shift timing and quality.

 

OK, so cold it'll take off in 1st & shift manually to 2nd ok & shifts ok when warmed up, so clutch/bands adjustment isn't likely a problem.

Sounds like a control problem, so how long, or how many miles on the tranny fluid & filter that's in there now????

Doesn't take much to muck up an auto tranny, a little sludge, gum, or varnish in the right place will do it, so as Khan Tyranitar has suggested, tranny fluid maintenance is very important. So, if you don't know the past service history, or likely condition of the tranny fluid or the tranny innards, I'd maybe consider beginning with a pan drop, filter change & full tranny fluid pump out & see how it goes with the new tranny fluids detergents cleaning things up in there. The pan drop & deposits, ect, you find, will allow you to get an idea on wear & internal condition of the tranny in the way of likely sludge, gum, or varnish deposits. At this point, without more info, I wouldn't suggest adding a detergent like SeaFoam Trans Tune to the tranny fluid & driving it for a while to see how it goes, before doing the pan drop & full fluid pump out at the bottom of the "Tech Info" thread.

If you know the tranny is clean inside, has had regular service over the years, then consider trying the Trans Tune & driving it to see if things get better, or as soon as the problem clears up, perform the pan drop & full fluid pump out, to get the Trans Tune & whatever its dissolved out of the tranny.

If that doesn't bring joy, you need to tell a good tranny shop how it acts when up shifting cold & what you've found with cold manual up shifting & have the shop that's familiar with this model Ford tranny, have a look at line pressure with a pressure gauge, when its cold & acting up, or perform some electrical tests on the shift solenoids.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.