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Shift motor transfer case harness different - 98 Navigator
#1
Shift motor transfer case harness different - 98 Navigator
All,
I'm replacing the shift motor on the transfer case and wire harnesses connectors are different than this.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...8/48207-01.jpg
The connector on the Navi has 13 pins I believe, this unit has 7 and a different size. What gives?
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
I'm replacing the shift motor on the transfer case and wire harnesses connectors are different than this.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...8/48207-01.jpg
The connector on the Navi has 13 pins I believe, this unit has 7 and a different size. What gives?
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
#2
All,
I'm replacing the shift motor on the transfer case and wire harnesses connectors are different than this.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...8/48207-01.jpg
The connector on the Navi has 13 pins I believe, this unit has 7 and a different size. What gives?
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
I'm replacing the shift motor on the transfer case and wire harnesses connectors are different than this.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...8/48207-01.jpg
The connector on the Navi has 13 pins I believe, this unit has 7 and a different size. What gives?
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
Are you certain your motor is bad?
#4
I believe the early 98's have the e4od. I haven't bought or removed yet, and no, the motor is not entirely toast. Once I disconnected the battery and reset the electronics, it started working again. I'd just like to replace since the case is rust through etc.
#5
Now the fun begins! I had run into the same thing on my expy. the auto 4x4 complicates things a little, the extra wires are due to the a4wd. I had a friend get me a wiring diagram and I had to pull the wires from the old plug and switch them to the new plug. The shift motors at all the local parts houses have the same listing for the one shift motor. Pay very close attention to what wire comes from where, it took me two or three tries until I got it right. Use a pick tool to pull out the red wire retainer thingy from the plug and the wires pull right out.
#6
Now the fun begins! I had run into the same thing on my expy. the auto 4x4 complicates things a little, the extra wires are due to the a4wd. I had a friend get me a wiring diagram and I had to pull the wires from the old plug and switch them to the new plug. The shift motors at all the local parts houses have the same listing for the one shift motor. Pay very close attention to what wire comes from where, it took me two or three tries until I got it right. Use a pick tool to pull out the red wire retainer thingy from the plug and the wires pull right out.
Thank you,
Jack in Ohio
#7
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#8
Misson Accomplished
Well, thanks to guidance from all of you, and this video from 1AAuto on YouTube, my transfer case shift motor replacement is complete and working. The trick as trsimmons25 explained above, is popping out the wires from the old connector and inserting them into the new connector. Watch the video and you'll have confidence to proceed. YouTube - 1AAuto.com Replace Fix 4WD 4x4 Transfer Case Shift Motor Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 1995-01
After removing the red collar with a pair of needle nose, use a small pointed object, such as a jewelers screw driver, and release the tab inside the connector for any given pin whilst gently pulling the wire from the rear. (you can practice on the new connector before starting) Pull out pins (old connector) and insert into the new connector in the same position until it clicks into place. I roughed-in the new motor in-place, while the old motor hung, just to make the pin transfer process easier.
Once all the pins are transferred, I used blue RTV gasket material on the encoder end and bolted in permanently. Everything else is straight forward.
I bought an OEM motor to avoid any hassle with wrong connector, Chinese crap etc. The OEM part (YL1Z-7G360-AA) was ~$250 (made in Korea). After market could be had for ~$100 or less on ebay from 1AAuto www.1aautomotive.com
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
After removing the red collar with a pair of needle nose, use a small pointed object, such as a jewelers screw driver, and release the tab inside the connector for any given pin whilst gently pulling the wire from the rear. (you can practice on the new connector before starting) Pull out pins (old connector) and insert into the new connector in the same position until it clicks into place. I roughed-in the new motor in-place, while the old motor hung, just to make the pin transfer process easier.
Once all the pins are transferred, I used blue RTV gasket material on the encoder end and bolted in permanently. Everything else is straight forward.
I bought an OEM motor to avoid any hassle with wrong connector, Chinese crap etc. The OEM part (YL1Z-7G360-AA) was ~$250 (made in Korea). After market could be had for ~$100 or less on ebay from 1AAuto www.1aautomotive.com
Thanks,
Jack in Ohio
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