What have you done to your truck today?
KsC - It is excellent progress when you wife both asks to see it as well as starts talking about painting it. You've obviously done a good job of balancing the floor work and truck work.
Bill - You don't have to have a sub-frame to fit the floor?
Matthew - You've given me hope. And probably raised your MPG by 2 points.
Bill - You don't have to have a sub-frame to fit the floor?
Matthew - You've given me hope. And probably raised your MPG by 2 points.
It finally takes off like I think it should now. I should have done that stuff last summer.
KsC - It is excellent progress when you wife both asks to see it as well as starts talking about painting it. You've obviously done a good job of balancing the floor work and truck work.
Bill - You don't have to have a sub-frame to fit the floor?
Matthew - You've given me hope. And probably raised your MPG by 2 points.
Bill - You don't have to have a sub-frame to fit the floor?
Matthew - You've given me hope. And probably raised your MPG by 2 points.
Crap, 1987 is the one I gave to my former department manager for his 1987 F-150. I know about the 1987 wiring, one of the trucks I got some wiring parts from was a 1987 with 351W HO. All the wires were bare for about 1 inch from each plug.
Gas gauge wire is yellow with white stripe. It goes through C100 (firewall round plug) then C177 (6 or 8 pin rectangular where rear end wiring plugs in) the ground returns through C177 to G801 (ground behind L headlamp).
If you have an in-tank pump (doubtful) and changed it, you may have no ground, a lot of replacements don't have a correct ground.
Gas gauge wire is yellow with white stripe. It goes through C100 (firewall round plug) then C177 (6 or 8 pin rectangular where rear end wiring plugs in) the ground returns through C177 to G801 (ground behind L headlamp).
If you have an in-tank pump (doubtful) and changed it, you may have no ground, a lot of replacements don't have a correct ground.
This year still had the mechanical fuel pump. The tank has a sending unit only.
Try grounding the yellow/white wire at the C177 plug, the gauge should go to full or even beyond. These are the older thermal 5 volt gauges so it won't jump. Did you replace the sender in the tank? If you did, try grounding the tank, again a lot of replacements aren't grounded properly through the plug.
I haven't changed it yet, but did have it out to clean the tank. It worked some, but I assumed it needed to be exercised and have some fuel covering it to get it cleaned up. Now it just lays dead. That particular sending unit is hard to come by. JBG is claiming to have some new stainless steel ones.
Not much I can do today, but I managed to order some parts while my wife is having sinus surgery. She should be out in about 90 minutes. I ordered Flowtech headers, a Magna flow dual in/dual out muffler, and a Spectra radiator. I'll stop by autozone tomorrow for new radiator hoses. Basically I'm collecting parts right now so when I assemble the engine over the next week, I use as many new parts as possible. I want no contamination in my system.
Besides starting the engine noise diagnosis today (see other thread), I started planning the HAM radio installation.
I have the antenna mounted on the left rear of the bed and ran the coax along the frame an into the rear of the cab using an existing grommet.
I plan to mount the radio along the rear cab wall and put an external speaker just behind the dome light, mounted on the metal trim rail.
The radio head will be remote mounted on the center bezel above the existing radio (I think where the clock would go? Mine says "CUSTOM" at the moment but that will be gone..
The head unit has a remote mount bracket and connects to the radio with a CAT 5 cable. Should make for a clean install.
In terms of power, I decided to fix a few other issues at the same time and clean up the wiring.
I've ordered and will install a Blue Sea 5250 fuse box. I'm installing it with a circuit breaker as well.
There will be a 4g wire going from the battery to the input of the surface mount breaker, and then 4g from the output to the + input on the panel. I'll also run 4g from the neg side of the battery to the ground bus on the panel. I can then run my radio power as well as my KC lights and any other accessories from that panel and clean up the wiring.
The panel is made for marine use and is water tight.
Should be nice when done.
Taking the HAM tests on 4/26 - If all goes well I'll have my General Class. (Extra is just too hard to study for right now..)
I have the antenna mounted on the left rear of the bed and ran the coax along the frame an into the rear of the cab using an existing grommet.
I plan to mount the radio along the rear cab wall and put an external speaker just behind the dome light, mounted on the metal trim rail.
The radio head will be remote mounted on the center bezel above the existing radio (I think where the clock would go? Mine says "CUSTOM" at the moment but that will be gone..
The head unit has a remote mount bracket and connects to the radio with a CAT 5 cable. Should make for a clean install.
In terms of power, I decided to fix a few other issues at the same time and clean up the wiring.
I've ordered and will install a Blue Sea 5250 fuse box. I'm installing it with a circuit breaker as well.
There will be a 4g wire going from the battery to the input of the surface mount breaker, and then 4g from the output to the + input on the panel. I'll also run 4g from the neg side of the battery to the ground bus on the panel. I can then run my radio power as well as my KC lights and any other accessories from that panel and clean up the wiring.
The panel is made for marine use and is water tight.
Should be nice when done.
Taking the HAM tests on 4/26 - If all goes well I'll have my General Class. (Extra is just too hard to study for right now..)
Crap, 1987 is the one I gave to my former department manager for his 1987 F-150. I know about the 1987 wiring, one of the trucks I got some wiring parts from was a 1987 with 351W HO. All the wires were bare for about 1 inch from each plug.
Gas gauge wire is yellow with white stripe. It goes through C100 (firewall round plug) then C177 (6 or 8 pin rectangular where rear end wiring plugs in) the ground returns through C177 to G801 (ground behind L headlamp).
If you have an in-tank pump (doubtful) and changed it, you may have no ground, a lot of replacements don't have a correct ground.
Gas gauge wire is yellow with white stripe. It goes through C100 (firewall round plug) then C177 (6 or 8 pin rectangular where rear end wiring plugs in) the ground returns through C177 to G801 (ground behind L headlamp).
If you have an in-tank pump (doubtful) and changed it, you may have no ground, a lot of replacements don't have a correct ground.
I don't know if that is the entire electrical gremlin issue or . There is a red wired in the main gang that says "resistor wire do not cut or splice" all over it and that wire was getting so hot it would almost burn you, but where it splices in the wires on the other side are not hot to the touch.
What was causing the headlight, and that one only, to come on? Given the way they are wired I would have said it isn't possible for only one to come on unless the other one has a bad ground or is burned out.
As for the red wire, is that the one to the ignition? Are you running the MSD or DS-II?
As for the red wire, is that the one to the ignition? Are you running the MSD or DS-II?