1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

What have you done to your truck today?

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  #9211  
Old 02-23-2013, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1
Hi! I'm back.....

Changed the oil in the truck, just been driving it as my commuter for work. No issues until recently when the ignition would cut out intermittently. There is a lot of slop in the key slot like the old owners had a heavy keyring hanging from it. But anyway, I can sometimes move the key just a hair and it will cut out and then back on. Does not happen very often, but very disconcerting. Never the same conditions either. What part wears out in the linkage between the ign cylinder and the switch on the column?
Could that just be an adjustment issue? Like if the ignition switch is just barely engaged when the cylinder is in "run" position?

I don't know how hard it is to check adjustment as the last time I did that, the column was completely out of the truck at the time.
 
  #9212  
Old 02-23-2013, 05:47 PM
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Pot metal actuator rods usually just snap, don't they?
 
  #9213  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Pot metal actuator rods usually just snap, don't they?
Not broken. Not Tilt. Opened up the upper part of the column and all good. A little sloppy but fine. Removed the ignition switch from the column and the detents were gone. You could easily just slide the switch from end to end. Just plain worn out. New BWD ignition switch, made in Mexico, and the detents are back. All good now.
 
  #9214  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:58 PM
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Sometimes things get so dry that the switch doesn't come all of the way back I to Run from Start. Dad's truck was that way until I lubed it, and when it didn't come back fully the tach and turn signals didn't work. And if I wasn't careful when grabbing the key to fix it the ignition would be cut.
 
  #9215  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Not only will that kill mileage, but it will kill exhaust systems and oil. Doesn't heat either up enough to drive out the moisture.
Good thing my exhaust system is just flex pipe and glasspacks, that's gonna change hopefully soon. Either I'll build my own or find a shop to do it for me.
 
  #9216  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1
Not broken. Not Tilt. Opened up the upper part of the column and all good. A little sloppy but fine. Removed the ignition switch from the column and the detents were gone. You could easily just slide the switch from end to end. Just plain worn out. New BWD ignition switch, made in Mexico, and the detents are back. All good now.
You asked "what part wears out in the linkage..."

Given the gritty environment the ignition switch lives in down there, I don't think it has not reached a reasonable life expectancy.

Glad to hear it was a simple R&R and that you are back on the road!
 
  #9217  
Old 02-24-2013, 05:14 AM
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Updated the front end and my lighting with some clear lens housings, amber parklights, and an HD Harness to replace the old, broken, worn, tired, and fogged park lights.

Also figured out the shade-tree'd headlamp switch, fixed that, and pulled the majority of the old non-functional climate control remnants from the cab.

From this:

To this:


And here's a video of me and my awesome friend (who awesomely lends me his shop space and driveway) messing around with the new lights.

 
  #9218  
Old 02-24-2013, 07:54 AM
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Today I was busy already. I changed my oil, oil filter, then added some bar's leak's oil sealer and decided I would try that out. After I changed all the oil and set it all up I took my pickup out for a drive in the 1 1/2' of snow we have and had a blast. I was feeling really spendy today and bought some Rain X windshield wipers and they work great for $11 wipers. I'd recommend them.
 
  #9219  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:00 AM
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spray down the motor with cleaner degreaser

to cold too do much,so figure I would soak the motor in some engine cleaner,my new 66 F100 has been sitting for about 10-15 years,just bought/saved her last Sat,needs alot of TLC,definate carb job-leaks fuel out the front pump actuator,strong smell of OLD OLD OLD gas,will need to flush lines some how,drian tank,besides having to change plugs,wires,hoses ect. ect. ect. the engine is really dirty and gummed up so have to start somewhere
 
  #9220  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:20 AM
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Give all of it a good scrubbing down Tom. Makes everything easier to see and work on.
 
  #9221  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:56 AM
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Thanks Brono for the response,figured I'd let it soak for a week probally will have to scrub a bit for the heavy stuff,dont want to start pulling parts and have crud falling in everything and like you said makes it easier to work on,any advice on good degreasers that wont brake the bank??? or any suggestions on the best way to clean out the old fuel???
 
  #9222  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hubbytomdaman
Thanks Brono for the response,figured I'd let it soak for a week probally will have to scrub a bit for the heavy stuff,dont want to start pulling parts and have crud falling in everything and like you said makes it easier to work on,any advice on good degreasers that wont brake the bank??? or any suggestions on the best way to clean out the old fuel???

For grease cleaning, I use "Purple Power" by the gallon. It's like $3-$4 per gallon here at the local hardware store. Cleans just about anything, including engines.

That, and a cheap 3gal. hand pump sprayer.
 
  #9223  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hubbytomdaman
Thanks Brono for the response,figured I'd let it soak for a week probally will have to scrub a bit for the heavy stuff,dont want to start pulling parts and have crud falling in everything and like you said makes it easier to work on,any advice on good degreasers that wont brake the bank??? or any suggestions on the best way to clean out the old fuel???
I'm guessing that one of your several questions is how to clean out the old fuel, but I find your post to be both off putting and confusing. How about writing in English with capital letters, periods, and one question mark?

But, if my guess is right on the fuel, you can siphon it out or drop the tank and clean it out. The latter is the best approach as you can get all of the bad fuel as well as the crud, which you can't do via siphoning it.
 
  #9224  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:28 PM
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At what point is it just not worth your while to clean out a gas tank, when you can just order a new one delivered to your door for ~$80?

Except for those of us that are living in the desert southwest it has been under there rusting for 30 years.
 
  #9225  
Old 02-24-2013, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I'm guessing that one of your several questions is how to clean out the old fuel, but I find your post to be both off putting and confusing. How about writing in English with capital letters, periods, and one question mark?

But, if my guess is right on the fuel, you can siphon it out or drop the tank and clean it out. The latter is the best approach as you can get all of the bad fuel as well as the crud, which you can't do via siphoning it.
Thanks for the advise,figured I'd have to pull the Fuel Cell
Did not intend to be off pudding or confoosing,grammer was never a stong subject in Skool LOL(as the kids say)
Thanks again Gary
 


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