Jim, those links are very interesting. The first link explains some stuff that I have been wondering about. When my buddies Scott and James rebuilt my ZF5 they had to reference the tech info on the tear down. They have both rebuilt tons of the NV4500's. Those are the tranny's Dodge and GM used in their 3/4-1 ton trucks. Whenever they would pull the main shafts to remove the gear clusters they would drop them on the floor on end and the gears would just fall off. When they did the ZF a torch was used to heat the gears up. They dropped off one by one when they got hot. That explains the friction fit vs a press fit.

 

I don't think so. From pictures I've seen, it's the perfect hight and I love the stance!

 

Wired in a 7-pin round with a 4-pin flat trailer wiring harness. And installed a Trailer Brake Controller. This will be my 1st experience pulling a load this heavy over a good distance. A tandem-axle car hauler, hauling a 87 F150 XL 4x4, regular cab, short bed, 5.0L T-18 4spd. and a 4x4 quad. This F150 was the one that pulled my Bronco home when I bought it. So now it's my chance to return the favor. and give the Ol' girl a new life.

 

Recently I've been researching NOS shift ***** for my truck. I've come up with the correct part number, and two different suppliers.

Green Sales Company has 5 of E0TZ-7213-A.
Miller Obsolete Parts has 1 of E0TZ-7213-A, but for significantly cheaper than Green Sales.

For others who may be interested, here is a listing of the part numbers for all three of the shift ***** available for 1980-1981 trucks, and some early 1982 trucks.

NP208F Transfer Case Shift Ball - E0TZ-7213-A
NP435 Transmission Shift Ball - E0TZ-7213-B
SROD Transmission Shift Ball - E0TZ-7213-C

 

Today was a busy one. First I replaced the YFA and got the choke,fast idle and idle set up. They may need a little more tuning after running a few miles. Next up was re-curving a distributor,an attempt to get a little better gas mileage.The dist. will have to wait to be installed. I'm going to run the old one until I'm sure the carb adjustments are correct.

 

I was lookin at the 4" lift on a f150 with 35s and that looks and performs as it should. Im not sayin run 37s, just that with a f250 2" lift fits 35s without much issue if at all. That should get you through most class 4 trails. I expect to run nothin more then class 2 n 3 trails in my truck, so a 2" with 37s and some sheet metal work will be plenty to keep mine goin.

 

Well I figured out why my truck has been running like booboo for the past few weeks.

Clogged fuel filter and a clogged K&N air filter.

Replaced the fuel filter and pulled the air filter off and it ran tons better and mileage improved noticeably. I am getting the filter charger kit today so I can put my filter back on.

Aside from that I've just been going to work in it all week, and boy does that straight pipe sound good. lol

 

If you're pulling it with the F250, you won't have problems.

I pulled my 85 from Tx and didn't have issues..I pulled it with my ole 76.

A 18ft car hauler(with leveling bars) is nice..Naturally brakes on both axles of trailer...It pulls and handles with ease...

Just use a little common sense....Trav...

 

Oh yes, I'm using my F250. That's a little to much for the Bronco haha.

 

It was a shocking day today. In fact I got quite a charge out of it. It was ... "Electrical Day".

Started with wiring up a flat four plug wire harness in the back for my utility trailer lights.

Then I thought that I would take a look at the wiring for my left headlight and turnsignal. The signal works fine until I turn on the headlights. The headlilght bulb, even though I replaced it with a new one, glows but dimly.

I ran a new ground to the headlight plug and ran a wire off the right headlight plug which was getting a full 12v when turned on. Both fixes were successful. Headlight works properly and now no longer has an impact on the left turn signal operation.

So since I still had daylight left and the electrical tools out I decided to wire up my tach. I have already changed from the computer ignition to a DSII setup, so the groundwork for wiring up the tach was in place. While I was under the dash pulling the wires thru from the tach (mounted on the steering column) I came across the computer which I had intended to remove at some point. So the tach wiring job got put aside and I hunted down all the wiring for the computer and removed it from under the dash and pulled all the excess wiring out from under the hood. There is some tiding up left to do with the remaining underhood wiring, but domestic duties intervened so it, along with the tach, will wait for another day.

Good to cross all that stuff off the To Do list though.

TR

 

Today I finished up my rough draft of the torque converter access plate for my C6. When I bought my 400, the access plate was missing, and since I didn't feel like paying $20 for one from Ebay, I made my own for a few bucks.

After I finished trimming the edges:





After I finished "stamping" the center:




And just for comparison, and eBay pic of a factory Ford cover plate:





In a few weeks I'll go back and make a new one out of thicker metal, and then make sure all the rough edges are smooth. I'll also delete the third screw since the thicker metal should be strong enough to hold itself.

 

Isn't there an E0TZ or somesuch on there? Are you going to stamp that one?

Seriously though, good job.

 

This isn't the final one.

Thanks Gary!

 

New radiator, water pump, fan clutch, belts this weekend. Truck drew first blood on both of us, I guess it's our now for sure.

 

Got my entire dash pulled out today and repainted the plastic portion. Looks sharp, much better now than the old cruddy plastics. I won't be taking out the dash again if I can help it though...what a pain in the @$$. LOL. Thank you 81-F-150-Explorer for the help.