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What have you done to your truck today?

 
  #7756  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150 View Post
Starter solenoid? Make sure your cables are in good shape first. Sometimes a solenoid wont work well if the cables are deteriorated. Ask me how I know.
Both cables were replaced within the last few months. I took off all cables, inspected/cleaned them, and put back on. Shorting out the solenoid didnt work either. It just made clicks, then stopped making noise altogether. Its one of those Napa Echlin kinds.
 
  #7757  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:57 AM
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I looked at my truck and dreamed of it being complete. It is going to take a good minute to get it there, but it's worth it to me. Now I just have to save up money to get the parts I want and need, as well as more tools to work with. Such as a welder, grinder, air compressor, good quality torque wrench, better hand tools, toolbox, and good quality air tools that I can show my sons how to use.
 
  #7758  
Old 10-01-2012, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x484150 View Post
Both cables were replaced within the last few months. I took off all cables, inspected/cleaned them, and put back on. Shorting out the solenoid didnt work either. It just made clicks, then stopped making noise altogether. Its one of those Napa Echlin kinds.
If you have changed the cables this is the sign of a dead battery, not a failing starter solenoid.
With a fully charged battery and the keys out, put a test light between a battery post and the cable that should be there. (of course the other one should be connected)
If it lights up, you have a short that is killing the battery. Most likely the charge regulator or one of the alternator diodes.
 
  #7759  
Old 10-01-2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis View Post
The first one is Post 7736 (click the little arrow to the right of the username in a quote).

The MQ function is a toggle - on or off.

In normal operation, the button has a green ball (don't go there, please!) with a + in it.

Click it once, the ball turns red and has a minus sign (-) in it - indicating that, if you click it again, you can remove the post from the MQ'd response you're preparing to make.

I will bet an errant mouse click on 7736's post caused your problem, as I can't replicate it and everything seems to work for me on that page.
I'll bet you are right! I did click on it to get the quote, copied it, and pasted it into my post here. But, if I left that open maybe it continued to work. Anyway, it is ok now. Thanks.
 
  #7760  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:46 PM
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thank you ray1986 will try that.
 
  #7761  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dmarsh2400 View Post
thank you ray1986 will try that.
Just call me Ray
 
  #7762  
Old 10-01-2012, 05:19 PM
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I cut the pressure treated 2"x12"'s today to fit up the sideboards for Whitey. My buddy Jason dropped off about a half of a gallon of black paint that is an industrial grade. So I will probably run the boards by my dads house . He is retired and would probably love to paint them for me . He stays pretty busy fixing stuff and buildng stuff around the house. Since my mom is retired she appreciates anything that will keep him out of the house for a bit.
 
  #7763  
Old 10-01-2012, 10:36 PM
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Did some more investigating today. Double and triple checked all connections under the hood related to the starter.

Took off the starter, cleaned off the oil and cleaned the connections, found the starter cable has some fraying at the starter end.

Then checked the clutch neutral switch, and cleaned that for good measure, all of that still no good. Yesterday the engine was started and ran.
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
If you have changed the cables this is the sign of a dead battery, not a failing starter solenoid.
With a fully charged battery and the keys out, put a test light between a battery post and the cable that should be there. (of course the other one should be connected)
If it lights up, you have a short that is killing the battery. Most likely the charge regulator or one of the alternator diodes.
I have a meter, and the battery is at ~10.5V. Is that too low? Also, the truck has basically been sitting all summer.
 
  #7764  
Old 10-01-2012, 10:52 PM
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battery should be fine. if it goes below 10 volts then you need a new one.... but i normally get a new one if it goes below 11 volts. mine is at 12.1 right now
 
  #7765  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x484150 View Post
...I have a meter, and the battery is at ~10.5V. Is that too low? Also, the truck has basically been sitting all summer.
No, that's not good at all.
What does it read while the starter is engaged?
It should read ~12.3V at rest and 14 (+) while the engine is running and it is charging.

No wonder your starter won't turn the engine over.
 
  #7766  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:14 PM
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Ill be getting that battery charged then! I saw the ~12V reading on another thread.

I didnt read it while trying to start it, but the issue began after the engine ran yesterday, so I dont know that reading either.

(Side note: My truck is an hour and a half away from me right now, so in a few days, I'll see it again.)
 
  #7767  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:33 PM
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Did you get to the mud bogs at Vermonster this weekend?
 
  #7768  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:45 PM
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Who knew finding a shift **** could be so difficult?

I called 12 different junkyards today, all of whom had at least one 1980-1981 Truck or Bronco in their yard. None of them still had the shift *****.

I have three different shift ***** in my shop. Two are splined ***** for 1982-1986 NP208's, the third is for a 1987 BW1356. Those were all easy to find, but the one I need of course isn't.
 
  #7769  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:50 PM
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Nope, I wish I had gone to Vermonster. Had to work this weekend. Next year definitely! Did you go?
 
  #7770  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordzilla80 View Post
Who knew finding a shift **** could be so difficult?

I called 12 different junkyards today, all of whom had at least one 1980-1981 Truck or Bronco in their yard. None of them still had the shift *****.

I have three different shift ***** in my shop. Two are splined ***** for 1982-1986 NP208's, the third is for a 1987 BW1356. Those were all easy to find, but the one I need of course isn't.


I'm feeling kind of bad, that stuff (****, trim ring) *was* available to me on the truck that donated its xfer case shifter to you.

But, somebody got that stuff before I could nab it; sorry.
 

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