What have you done to your truck today?
#7681
09-29-2012, 09:57 AM
Posting Legend
With them off you can check that the pump itself is working, but make sure you take out the ball check and the weight that holds it down first or they'll go flying when you hit the throttle. Don't ask.
Again, you need a clear filter. Without it you don't know that you are getting gas to the carb. And, you have a good chance of silt getting into the carb unless you are running a new and clean tank.
#7682
09-29-2012, 09:58 AM
Pictures can say 1,000 words and eliminate confusion, please post some.
#7683
09-29-2012, 09:58 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Bernstadt Kentucky
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i just went out and tried to start it. choke on. and it will NOT start! it would fire just a bit after i cranked it for a long time, but no where near starting. i dont think i am getting fuel. so i will get an inline filter. i will get a new filter for inside the fuel pump. and i will blow out the gas lines!
#7684
09-29-2012, 10:02 AM
Posting Legend
i just went out and tried to start it. choke on. and it will NOT start! it would fire just a bit after i cranked it for a long time, but no where near starting. i dont think i am getting fuel. so i will get an inline filter. i will get a new filter for inside the fuel pump. and i will blow out the gas lines!
Also, some engines won't start w/o the accelerator pump working. If yours isn't working then it may well be the problem. But, if you don't have fuel it won't start regardless.
#7685
09-29-2012, 10:07 AM
I would want to verify if you're getting fuel or not, by first using a fuel pressure gauge. Remove the gasoline inlet to the carb and install it on the gauge; crank the engine for a bit and see what kind of pressure you have. IIRC it should be 4-5-6 or so PSI.
A clear inline filter can let you see if gas is making its way to the carb, that's a good thing to know.
When did this problem begin? How many carbs have you rebuilt?
A clear inline filter can let you see if gas is making its way to the carb, that's a good thing to know.
When did this problem begin? How many carbs have you rebuilt?
#7687
09-29-2012, 10:55 AM
I think I might have done that too once. I troubleshot another members issue that was 180° out. Some people dont know enough about the way motors work to know the cam turns once to every two rotations of the crank. I used to think anytime the #1 piston was all the way up it was TDC and time it from there. However, there is compression and exhaust strokes for TDC.
After I figured that out my problem was obvious.
After I figured that out my problem was obvious.
#7688
09-29-2012, 11:18 AM
. I really want to show yall how good this new intake and carb look on the engine.
#7689
09-29-2012, 11:21 AM
What is it and why the for sale sign? I know I have gotten frustrated at times but I guarantee you you'll look back and regret getting rid of the vehicle if it is in decent shape because it's hard to find older trucks in good shape atleast around here in MS it is.
#7690
09-29-2012, 11:29 AM
If that is what you have to do, it reinforces my opinion of MSD stuff. Every engine built since some time in the 30s until computer controls came along, with the exception of high performance engines had what is referred to as "dual advance" distributors.
The mechanical advance curve is tailored to the maximum advance the engine can use under load, the vacuum advance curve is tailored to the maximum advance the engine can use under light load. The purpose of the vacuum advance is fuel economy.
I just looked at the instructions, I don't see that one requires removal for the other. It is a GM style design with easy to adjust mechanical advance. The instructions state that the vacuum advance adds 10 degrees to the curve when the vacuum signal is applied.
The mechanical advance curve is tailored to the maximum advance the engine can use under load, the vacuum advance curve is tailored to the maximum advance the engine can use under light load. The purpose of the vacuum advance is fuel economy.
I just looked at the instructions, I don't see that one requires removal for the other. It is a GM style design with easy to adjust mechanical advance. The instructions state that the vacuum advance adds 10 degrees to the curve when the vacuum signal is applied.
#7691
09-29-2012, 11:34 AM
#7692
09-29-2012, 11:36 AM
#7693
09-29-2012, 11:51 AM
Postmaster
#7694
09-29-2012, 02:31 PM
I hope it all works out for ya. by the way I missed why you were having to change out the transfer case. But it looks a whole lot better than mine right now. It is leaking fluid from around the front output shaft atleast that is where it looks like it is coming from, it may be the input shaft from the transmission but I don't think so. 
aghh way to much caffeine feel like I am about to start bouncing off the walls.
aghh way to much caffeine feel like I am about to start bouncing off the walls.
#7695
09-29-2012, 03:43 PM
Postmaster
I had to swap out the transfer case because the truck used to never have one. When I bought the truck, it was a 4x2, Custom trim, 4.9 300 powered base level truck.
I've gone from this,
To this:
