I am not sure, but I *think* you need a Motorcraft WPT-317 (aka 3U2J-14B475-KTA and/or 3U2Z-14S411-KTA)

Rock Auto has 'em for ~$23; that other thing I first showed is made in Taiwan.

Match up the individual connectors to be certain of what you need.

Kedwin is right, you can probably repair it, too, if you have soldering tools and such.

 

Its similiar but not it, has 2 plugs too many...mine has only 7.

Would the motorcraft number be on my stock harness? I didnt see it earlier

 

Will the new plug even fit it?

 

Unfortunately it wont :/ I did a parts search straight from ford parts website, entered my vin and all they have listed is the actual switch itself, not the wiring harness

 

The number on the harness (if it's still there) is 1) going to be for the entire harness, and 2) is an Engineering ID Number and not a Part Number.

The pigtails I'm finding are explicit pigtails used for repairing harnesses.

You say you have only 7 connectors??? All the pictures I see show, um, nine. Could be these things fit multiple switches, too... I just looked at your picture, yes, I see 7 connectors. But, a 9-pin connector may fit, you'll just have two extra wires.

Could also be that a Motorcraft WPT-165 will work for you.



I have an idea... call up the Parts Department at Tousley Ford at 800-328-9552, tell them what information you have (the Motorcraft numbers) and your application and ask them if they'll do some investigation for you. You can buy the parts from their Web site for about the same cost as Rock Auto so this would be a good way to support our sponsors, too. If you do this, include a note somewhere thanking them for supporting FTE.

I just bought a tank sender/pump assembly for my DD Tempo from them; even though the price the guy gave me on the phone was substantially higher than what was on their Web site, I ordered it from their site and they sold it to me at that price.


Motorcraft WPT-165 is also (for the web site): 1U2Z14S411AAA

Motorcraft WPT-167 is also: 3U2Z14S411KTA

Remember, you can probably repair your existing wiring, those individual connectors come out of the Bakelite plastic thing typically by using a jeweler's screwdriver or dental pick into the plastic and moving a small tab, then pull the connector + wire out.

 

I'm gonna take off from work tomorrow, the Chief Colonel & Captain already know of my plight and I can't get the headlight pull shaft thingy to clip back inside the switch itself no matter how I play with the darn thing. There is a auto parts store nearby and I'm gonna look for the metal connectors that attach to the wire and try and repair the harness as you mentioned Chris.

The part from rock auto might work, but I don't want to spend money on a part that wont fit/work

 

The shaft goes back in and the spring-loaded button engages it to retain it. You might have to turn the **** a bit as you push it in to get it to catch.

 

You can always return the part so long as you haven't tried to install it into your wiring (or otherwise damaged it) or messed up the box real bad.

An electronics store might be a good place to check, too. Maybe even Radio Shack.

My shaft for some reason gives me problems, too, please keep your mind out of the gutter, guys it seems it installs only one way. Try rotating it and reinserting it.

If you call Ford, have the switch itself handy.

 

Put new calipers on yesterday and bled them. Just adjusted the brake shoes on the back, lubed up the self-adjuster (which doesn't seem like it was self-adjusting?), and those lines have been bled. I can pump my pedal real quick and it'll tighten up with the truck off, push it slow and it'll slowly sink to the floor before I hear a "PING" and it'll drop to the firewall.

I guess I'm looking at a new master cylinder. I'll replace the booster while I'm at it.

Wasn't looking forward to redoing all of the brake system, but hey, I'll at least be confident I can stop my truck when I need to.

So, a new master cylinder, new brake shoes, new wheel cylinders and self adjusters, and a new booster, and I'll be good to go I reckon.

EDIT:

Do the 4x4 model F150's have the 11'' rear drum brakes? I've got an 8.8 rear with drum rear disc front.

 

The parts catalog says all F150s 1980/89 use 11" x 2¼" rear brakes.

 

I decided to call it quits last nite, I was frustrated and tired. But now ALL my lights are working. I took a pick (my girlfriend figured it out before I did) to remove the connector from the gray piece O'Rielleys gave me for the wire and connector. I then removed the old connector from the original harness. The wire was KFC'd and the end of the terminal had copper wire melted to it.

This was before the running lights was working


The brass connector I had from the new connector was to big so I had to buy a smaller connector and remove the hard plastic surrounding it so it could fit (no pics). I wired everything in and now it all works. I have plenty of pics to showcase all my work. This has undoubtedly been the longest and most aggravating project I have done to my truck thus far, but it was worth every second and I learned alot. Thank you everyone for your technical advice and know-how.

While I had the dash out, me and my girlfriend cleaned some 31yrs of dust dirt & debris off of the instrument cluster and other parts. It looks alot better. And now to the pics!

 

I knew you could do it! Congrats.


On another note, I picked up that 84 CRX yesterday. Hopefully soon, I'll be on my way to getting 35+ MPG in it, like the original owner did until the carb started acting up. That happened about the same time as ethanol was quietly added to the fuel at many of the local stations........
This car is unbelievably nice. Just the added goodies could fetch $1000 or more if they were to be taken off and advertised on Ebay. 2 piece Gotti wheels, OEM Honda rear louvers, and OEM Honda fog lights are impossible to find for one of these, and yet, this car has them all.
Timing belt, for good measure, carb rebuild and fuel system flush should get it running. Brakes still work, but will get attention. Then, tires, as I don't even want to think about driving it on 1995 vintage rubber....... I was scared they would blow out just pushing it out their driveway, and into mine.

 

Good deal! Now you may understand why it is recommended to put the headlight relay upgrade on. That's relays out by the headlights that are pulled in via the headlight switch. IOW, the only current through the switch for the headlights is the little bit it takes to pull the relays in. That dramatically drops the current through that connector and lengthens the life of the wire and the connector.

To tell the truth, I haven't done it - yet. I'm thinking an engine and a transmission are more important at the moment. But, it is on the list of must-do's.

 

Is that one of the 3 bbl carbs we discussed a few months ago?

 

Oh, I remember those from my first wife's 1980 CVCC Honda Accord.