Back when I had a V8, I was the same way. Anytime 1 end came off, a new hose went on, and the old hose went in the glovebox......
I still do that with fan belts/rad hoses, new one goes on, old ones go in the toolbox, just in case.......

 

Today, I installed a factory tach into my instrument cluster and changed out all the instrument bulbs. Got it all put back together, and the tach didn't work. Great. So, I pulled it out, hooked it up to the battery and coil, and it worked. Turns out I wasn't getting power to the tach for some reason. So I ran a jumper wire from the tach to the fuse box. Tach works. But, none of the lights in the cluster work. So, I'm headed back up to the junk yard tomorrow to see if I can find another printed circuit. Hopefully that one will work. Haha

 

If the replacement printed circuit doesn't fix your problem, the dash lights use the light blue/
red-stripe wire, you might look for problems in that circuit. There is a separate fuse for the
instrument + the rest of the dash backlights.

 

Hmm. I didn't know that. But, they worked with my old printed circuit, and the turn signals and hi-beam indicator bulbs work on the new printed circuit, but when I take a good bulb from the turn signal and plug it into the cluster backlights, they still don't work. So that's what's leading me to believe it's the printed circuit. But if I swap it out and they still don't work, I'll be sure and check that out. Thanks for the info!

 

What I am wondering is if there is a way to wire my high beams to a dash mounted toggle? I would assume that it is feasible but don't know forsure?

 

Just curious, but why wire them to a manual switch? I'm not asking to be rude or anything.

Today all I did with my truck was drive it around town a little then go back home...the most productive thing I did was sit in it and imagine how it's gonna sound when I get the tailpipe after the Flowmaster cut off so it's not going from a 2.5" muffler to a 2" tailpipe...

I'm thinking it'll have a better sound since it'll flow a little better and won't be bottlenecking at that tailpipe.

 

I personally love the look and operation of toggle switches I figure if its not too hard I'll do it. But I suppose I will get used to a floor high beam switch once I start driving it and then just wire my kcs to a toggle. KISS

 

going at noon to put my 33x15.5x15 super swamper tsl,s on my truck

 

Like every other kid around here, has to have a but load of toggles that do nothing, and paint the dash some bright dumb color.

 

Hey, if it makes him happy, more power to him.

 

Yes you can.

You'll need a switch and a couple of relays to carry the load.

I'm working on installing a column mounted directional/hi-lo beam switch in my old gal.

When I get it worked out, I'll start a thread and post a schematic.

I like the accessibility of a column mounted switch.

Interestingly ... I'm probably using the column unit from an MGB ... and the relays out of something GM.

 

Re-sealed the roof on my motorhome, then covered the whole thing with a tarp, hopefully that will keep the rain out.

Gonna do some fixin of the supercab tomorrow.

 

Took measurements for ladder bars, winter project to get more traction and lower 60 Ft times.

Also pulling the motor this weekend for a quick tear down and inspection.

 

My "quick tear down and inspection" resulted in discovery of shoddy work done by a PO
which then resulted in replacement rebuilt heads, replacement block, TMI hypereutectic
pistons, Cloyes roller timing chain, polished crank, Edelbrock Performer 400, Holley 670
Truck Avenger, headers (from a JY, no idea of brand), and all the other parts & components
necessary to build an 80's engine back into a decent performer, all over the course of a
summer.

Be warned.

 

Ever notice how PO also describes the emotion usually felt when the PO's handiwork is discovered?