What have you done to your truck today?
#1787
07-27-2011, 08:46 PM
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#1789
07-27-2011, 09:09 PM
Postmaster
Today, I changed out the rear U-Joints in the truck.. However, it wasn't as cut and dry as it sounds.
First off, I went to Napa to pick up the U-joints, only to find that only one of the ones that was ordered was the right one. The ones I got worked on the rear of the driveshaft, but not on the slip yoke. So, I swapped out some caps to make one of them work on the slip yoke, took the other one back to Napa, told them it was the wrong one, but that I had already gotten it fixed, so I just needed my money back. Took that money across the street to Advance, and got another U-Joint that they had in stock. Ran back to the shop (which is just behind Napa), and put the U-Joint in. Re-installed the driveshaft. Took it for a spin. Everything checked out fine, no more clattering when I downshift or put it in reverse. Good to go. Left the shop and went home.
Well, between the shop and my house is this dirt road. And dirt roads are always fun, and I try to take it whenever I've got some extra time. So I turned down the dirt road. And as I'm hot-roddin' down this dirt road, getting the truck sideways, sliding all over the place, having a good time, I hear a pop, and the engine revs to the moon. Now, sometimes the shifter slides out of third, so I figured, no problem, and put it back into gear. Stepped on the gas. Nothing. And then I start to hear a scraping sound. So I let the truck roll onto the side of the road, got out, looked underneath, and sure enough, the driveshaft was sitting on the ground... One of the U-Bolts that holds the U-Joint to the yoke on the rear end had snapped, Sending one of the caps flying, and dropping the driveshaft. In an attempt to try and limp home, I pulled the driveshaft out, locked in my hubs, dropped it in four wheel drive, and went nowhere. (I didn't know the rear driveshaft had to be installed for the 4WD to work.) So I called my neighbor (who is also the guy that owns the shop), had him come pick me up. Prayed that the nearest Advance had the U-Bolts and another U-Joint. They did. Got back to the truck, got everything swapped, and buttoned up, and drove home. Fortunately, for my conscience, it appears that the snapped U-Bolt had already been cracked before it broke. Now, whether or not it snapped as a result of my driving, I'll never know, but the fact that it was probably already cracked helps me feel better about it.
First off, I went to Napa to pick up the U-joints, only to find that only one of the ones that was ordered was the right one. The ones I got worked on the rear of the driveshaft, but not on the slip yoke. So, I swapped out some caps to make one of them work on the slip yoke, took the other one back to Napa, told them it was the wrong one, but that I had already gotten it fixed, so I just needed my money back. Took that money across the street to Advance, and got another U-Joint that they had in stock. Ran back to the shop (which is just behind Napa), and put the U-Joint in. Re-installed the driveshaft. Took it for a spin. Everything checked out fine, no more clattering when I downshift or put it in reverse. Good to go. Left the shop and went home.
Well, between the shop and my house is this dirt road. And dirt roads are always fun, and I try to take it whenever I've got some extra time. So I turned down the dirt road. And as I'm hot-roddin' down this dirt road, getting the truck sideways, sliding all over the place, having a good time, I hear a pop, and the engine revs to the moon. Now, sometimes the shifter slides out of third, so I figured, no problem, and put it back into gear. Stepped on the gas. Nothing. And then I start to hear a scraping sound. So I let the truck roll onto the side of the road, got out, looked underneath, and sure enough, the driveshaft was sitting on the ground... One of the U-Bolts that holds the U-Joint to the yoke on the rear end had snapped, Sending one of the caps flying, and dropping the driveshaft. In an attempt to try and limp home, I pulled the driveshaft out, locked in my hubs, dropped it in four wheel drive, and went nowhere. (I didn't know the rear driveshaft had to be installed for the 4WD to work.) So I called my neighbor (who is also the guy that owns the shop), had him come pick me up. Prayed that the nearest Advance had the U-Bolts and another U-Joint. They did. Got back to the truck, got everything swapped, and buttoned up, and drove home. Fortunately, for my conscience, it appears that the snapped U-Bolt had already been cracked before it broke. Now, whether or not it snapped as a result of my driving, I'll never know, but the fact that it was probably already cracked helps me feel better about it.
#1790
07-27-2011, 09:16 PM
Posting Legend
I replaced my clutch fan... The new one had a larger shaft diameter so my old washers were too big. So I was looking all over the place through toolboxes and buckets to find four washers of the correct size. I finally found them and got it all put together. Satisfied with my accomplishment, I grabbed the empty box off the seat of the truck to throw it away, and discovered that there were four new lock washers included... 
What have I done to my truck? Nada as I've been on vacation. But, as I was driving home today I called the machinist and was pleasantly surprised - my engine work is done. Took the block .030", the crank .020 and the rods .010 over.
Also, just for reference, the whole shooting match was $1k including the machine work, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets/seals, valves, springs, and freeze plugs. Now I have to port the heads, esp the exhaust ports to remove the AIR bump, and start putting things together. And, before someone asks, I'll post pics as I go, staring with when I pick it up.
#1792
07-28-2011, 08:08 AM
Nothing yet. Called the guy that is supposed to do my rust repair, he said he has a hood and a bumper to paint first. He said call him back on Friday and he should have some room to get my truck in. Since he works out of his house, I am hoping for the best. He says it shouldn't take more than a few days to a week to do the job. I can't wait to get it back, so I can continue the work on it. I am going to ask him if it would be alright for me to stop by every other day and take some pictures, then I will post them here.
#1793
07-28-2011, 08:48 AM
Posting Legend
Will make sure to do a before and after shot - maybe of adjacent ports. However, I'm new at this so I'll just be going from what little I've read as well as a gut feel for flow characteristics. So, any recommendations will be appreciated. Btw, they are D8OE heads.
#1794
07-28-2011, 01:17 PM
Postmaster
#1795
07-28-2011, 02:11 PM
Post Fiend
I've done nothing recently to any of my vehicles, aside from dropping a battery into one that has been sitting since Nov, and fired it up.
Between the weather being too hot to really want to do much, and the upcoming rallycross this weekend taking all my available funds, I just haven't done anything productive lately.
The reason for getting that one car started, it's the rallycross ride. Last moved when it was unloaded after the last rallycross. At least this time it'll have tires a bit more suited for dirt. Scored a set of barely used snow tires for $100, should be a bit better than the all-season tires I run last time around.
Assuming the car survives, I hope to run it again in October, when the National championship event comes to the same site as this weekend's event. Hopefully, the weather will be much cooler by then......
Between the weather being too hot to really want to do much, and the upcoming rallycross this weekend taking all my available funds, I just haven't done anything productive lately.
The reason for getting that one car started, it's the rallycross ride. Last moved when it was unloaded after the last rallycross. At least this time it'll have tires a bit more suited for dirt. Scored a set of barely used snow tires for $100, should be a bit better than the all-season tires I run last time around.
Assuming the car survives, I hope to run it again in October, when the National championship event comes to the same site as this weekend's event. Hopefully, the weather will be much cooler by then......
#1796
07-28-2011, 02:19 PM
Posting Legend
#1797
07-28-2011, 03:46 PM
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#1798
07-28-2011, 04:34 PM
well, got the title signed to my name on the 18th. tore the rear-end apart to clean it out (shelled the rear-end before my dad got it, he put in a new ring and pinion, but hadnt checked the wheel bearins to be sure they were clean), and painted the hubs silver, and the axle shaft ends and diff cover metallic blue. looks pretty sharp. got 315/75R15 tires for the sharp lookin aluminum wheels. then drove it 2400 miles. tuesday mornin, the 26th, went to my exhaust guy, cut off the muffler, opened it up to 3 inch for bout 3 and half feet, then it turns out to a 22 inch long, 4 inch chrome tip in front of the right rear tire (strait piped).
#1799
07-28-2011, 05:16 PM
Posting Legend
A few days ago there was a discussion on this thread re what voltage the electric chokes require, with one of our more astute members pointing out that there are two different voltages to be used - 12 volts for after-market carbs and ~6 volts from the alternator's stator terminal for Ford-sourced carbs. I said I would measure the resistance of the various carbs I have when I got home from vacation and I'm home, so here goes....
First, measuring the resistance is the wrong approach since the heating coils are touchy and change resistance depending on the impedance of the meter. I was reminded of that when I got different measurements from different meters. So, the best measurement is current at a set voltage. I did that with battery voltage at 12.4 volts, and I took readings as the connection was made and then at 30 seconds and again at 60 seconds.
The after-market Holley 4150 says it needs switched 12 volts, as does the Edelbrock, which fits the theory. However, the Autolite E1T PGM carb, which my decoding says is from an '81 F150 w/a 351M and C6, says right on it that it uses 14 volts, which doesn't fit the theory. On the other hand, on Page 24-25-3 the '81 FSM says "The electric assist choke cap is powered from the stator tap of the alternator." And I know that gives ~6 volts.
In summary, I don't know! Any of you know what the rule is?
First, measuring the resistance is the wrong approach since the heating coils are touchy and change resistance depending on the impedance of the meter. I was reminded of that when I got different measurements from different meters. So, the best measurement is current at a set voltage. I did that with battery voltage at 12.4 volts, and I took readings as the connection was made and then at 30 seconds and again at 60 seconds.
- ________________________INITIAL 30 Sec's 60 Sec's
- Edelbrock 1406:___________1.5 amp; 1.35 amp; 1.2 amp
- Holley 4150 Street Avenger; 2.2 amp; 1.28 amp; .98 amp
- Holley 4180;________________5 amp; 1.6 amp; 1.42 amp
- Autolite 2150;_______________3 amp; .80 amp; .70 amp
- Autolite E1T PGA E om 3:______5 amp; .49 amp; .39 amp
The after-market Holley 4150 says it needs switched 12 volts, as does the Edelbrock, which fits the theory. However, the Autolite E1T PGM carb, which my decoding says is from an '81 F150 w/a 351M and C6, says right on it that it uses 14 volts, which doesn't fit the theory. On the other hand, on Page 24-25-3 the '81 FSM says "The electric assist choke cap is powered from the stator tap of the alternator." And I know that gives ~6 volts.
In summary, I don't know! Any of you know what the rule is?
#1800
07-28-2011, 05:30 PM
Postmaster
