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I assume this is one of the sturdy IHC in-lines? Like maybe an SD240?
Close, it's the BD240. Only real difference is in the head, the sd has straight valves and the bd has slant valves for better airflow. It's not runnin quite right though, the fuel pump is shot and the carb needs adjusted. Then I can play with the timing and get it runnin better. Once there I need a radiator which is bout $250, a front disc conversion ($350-500?) and an explorer 8.8 rear. Rewire the whole truck and replace the rear window and I'll be in business.
I would be careful with only an 8.8". Early Econolines with the 240 and 300 had 9" rear ends under them. The IHC 6s are incredibly tough.
Really the 90s explores have very similar stats to my old binder. I understand load cap will suffer slightly but drivability will be much improved. Not to mention unless I can find a good 9" rearend in the jy it's really the best choice.
The 8.8 conversion would be nice especially with the disc brakes on the rear. However, the 8.8 has a weak LS carrier. The open carriers are built like a tank though. The 9" would be better especially if you want LS, but to go disc would add another $500 to the build.
Got my electric fuel pump installed and now the engine runs strong. I think the carb is still screwed but now I can at least drive it out and back into the driveway.
Still no brakes other then the driveshaft park brake so I can't take it round the block yet.
It's got a Holley 1904. Much like what ford used in the day on their own I6. Single barrel, and quite possibly the simplest carb I'll ever have to work with. But it's definitely wore out, the new fuel pump is showing weak areas in the carb body now.
The AC job on the Dodge is still lingering. Now it appears there is either a bad shrater valve on the accumulator drier or possible a bad weld. I lost most of my refrigerant AGAIN while the truck sat. I had to waste another can just to see where it was leaking. The sniffer went berserk when I put it on that service port. I tightened it up hoping that would solve it, but didn't. Then I screwed the port cap on extremely tight to see if that would help, but didn't.
I think I am going to change the whole thing out just know I got it instead of changing the valve only to find out it was a weld joint.
I have just enough 134A to fill the system to full charge left over from a CASE.