I was actually about to revive this myself. I've been helping setup the VetNet forum down in the general stuff. But today, thankfully, the weather and my health cooperated and I did some stuff to Beast.

I noticed a low tire, so I filled it. Then, the boys wanted to play, so I popped the tailgate and set about inspecting the rear a little. I pulled both taillight assemblies. Drivers is cracked pretty bad, and I found an amber bulb in the brake light socket. Passenger is ok. I cleaned both. Dropped about 1/2 a pound of dirt from the bulbs. I also started to remove the crazy crane arm mount. Need to break out the new grinder to finish it.

 

It was 10 degrees this morning when I got up, so just for s---- and giggles I decided to try starting the truck, just to see what would happen. I'm happy to report that even though everything (ignition lock, gear selector, starter motor) was gummy and sluggish from the cold, it started on the first turn of the key. It idled a little more roughly than usual, but it soon warmed up and drove fine.

Speaking of driving...today I put the 10,000th mile on the truck since I got it. The odometer read (1)16,059 when I got it, and today I saw this:



That's 10,000 miles in 51 months of ownership, or about 2,350 miles/year. And in that time it's only left me stranded once, when a charging problem I didn't know about bit me a few weeks after I got the truck.

 

Don't wear it out!

 

The ignition lock thing. Take the steering wheel off, take the ignition lock out, remove the gear and gear shaft. Clean the old grease out and clean everything up very good. Replace the grease with CRC silicone lubricant. No more sticky ignition lock in the cold.

 

I don't intend to.

I plan to keep it indefinitely...at the current rate of driving, it should hit 200K sometime in 2046. I'll be 76 that year, so that might be about the time I will have to give up working on it. My son will be 41 that year, which *might* be old enough to appreciate the fine antique that will be my truck - I'll probably give it to him around that time.

Although, the drive rate may go up soon; I work from home now and don't have to drive much any more, so we're going to sell my Infiniti and get the wife a new car with the proceeds. Eventually I will get myself a new-to-me project car, but in the meantime the truck will be my daily driver.

 

The spray lubricant?

 

Been looking at bare blocks for my '82. Give me something to do long term for the truck.


Found a guy in florida on Ebay, he sells reconditioned 302 and 351W blocks and I can get a 302 block for $699.00 with free shipping both ways, no core charge and I can request a roller block at no extra cost. The 351W is more money and the roller upgrade is $100.


So I am looking at the 302 block and request a 4.030" bore and either build a 305 CID small block or stroke it ontop of that for a 331 CID. Still haven't desided on that but some people have been telling me to go and get the built short block that just needs a cam and oil pump to be complete and get the cam and heads I want.


I don't know if that would be right to do as I don't know what kind of parts they used on the lower end and I don't know what CC everything is so I can find out what compression I will be at static and dynamic with the heads I am looking at. But theres another guy on ebay that sells this style that is listed as a 308 that is bored 0.040" over and use with 58cc factory heads it is 9:1 compression and they state that this short block has been tested to produce 350+ hp. This guy is selling these for $849.95 and he is based in Dallas.


So I might just go that route.






Yes, I think I will go this route. I can deside on a bore change from the one he has listed free at no extra cost, they are all roller blocks for '86 to '95 mustangs or other fords. Then in the description that I over looked the block comes with Federal Mongul or Silvolite pistons, Hastings rings, Ford OEM I beam rods, Federal Mongul rod and main bearings, Melling cam bearings, and Felpro gaskets. The crank is new or freshly reground.


I think this is the best deal for me considering I get basially a short block ready to go for $850 vs spending $700 for just a bare block.

 

Yeah.

CNC Heavy-Duty Silicone Lubricant - Walmart.com

This stuff works great. Dries and doesn't collect dirt but leaves a film of silicone lubricant.

 

Sounds oddly sexual for some bizarre reason...

 

Hahahahaha. Didn't sound like that to me.

 

Sold my old 85-86 tailgate trim panel and my old bed front protector for $40 today. Was going to throw it in the dump originally.

 

Got my new PMGR starter today. DB Electrical special. Came with a dyno sheet, rated for 1.40 KW and puts out 1.52 KW.










Looks like they have a spade terminal for the start side solenoid activator and a wire that you just crimp the new wire in to and heat shrink it down.

 

Matthew, I don't know what that cost, but for an automatic 300 or small block, you can use a 1990 Lincoln Town Car starter. It is nice looking!

 

It was $45 to my door with a 1 year warranty. I had an amazon gift card so I only paid $20.90 for it. Hopefully it lasts a long time. Jim says his has been great so far.

 

Mine HAS been great! Don't use it, just put a ring terminal and star washer on the trigger wire.

That disconnect was the bane on many mid '90's trucks.
... well, use it if you want.
If the starter gets iffy in a few years youll know where the bad connection is.