i live in Michigan so i can't(won't) drive my truck in the winter months when it starts snowing. What do you do to store your truck? mine is in a unheated garage with a concrete floor. should I put it on jack stands, put anything underneath? any suggestions would be great.

 

I am just about to put mine away for the winter also. They stay in the same shop/garage (unheated) that they are in during the summer and other than putting the F-1 on wheel dollies so it can be moved over to make room for my work truck, I cover them, start them every month or so and run the trickle charger once in awhile.
Oh yea, and I pine about when I can drive them again!

 

Normally you find someone in California or Florida to drive your truck during the winter.

If you want to bring it out here, I will be happy to watch and drive it in our warmer weather for you this winter. No charge!

 

I'll keep you in mind Julie once my panel is road worthy

 

Get a "Battery Tender" They're made by Deltrans. It will keep your battery fully charged and you will not need to start the truck.

If you do start your truck, let it run for a while to replace the cranking amps used to get it running.

Add a fuel stabilizer. Fuel will separate and you will get varnish in your carb. Also, the 10% ethanol fuel tends to absorb moisture in the air. This will cause rust in your tank.

Fill your fuel tank. This make less area exposed to air which can also cause rust.

Dream you're in Florida and get to drive whenever you want.

 

And one other thought.
Don't let any one from San Diego drive your truck. It may just end up in Tijuana as a rolling parts department.

 

DaytonaF1, just where do all those cool old cars in Cuba come from? LOL

 

POWAY, California

 

Nah, they don't bother to take them down there anymore - because they are all living on this side now.

 

If you start your truck in winter, you need to run it until the OIL is up to temperature (180 deg.). This is a lot longer than you'd guess; more than 1/2 hour, and even then if you just let it idle, it may not get there. If you don't do that, all you're doing is putting water and acidic compounds in the oil. You honestly are better off not running it if you don't get it all the way hot. Personally, I would let the run the carb dry (if your truck still has the valve at the gas tank this is easy, otherwise not). You hear people claim gaskets dry out, but they ship them that way, how bad can it be for them? After the engine cools, pull the plugs and put a squirt or two in each cylinder, turn over 4 full revs by hand, then put the plugs back in.

As far as the gas tank and stabilizers, I don't know what's best any more. The ethanol is killer. If you leave it filled, the ethanol absorbs water. If you leave it near empty, you could drain the gas with any condensation in the Spring. I don't know that there will be that much condensation if you keep it indoors and with the cap on. I don't know if stabilizer really does any good with ethanol "enhanced" gas?

I used a Tender on my motorcycle battery and it boiled it dry over a period of 2 months. Could have just been that it was a cheap WalMart battery, but I'd check the water weekly or so. If you have a 12v system, I don't know that it needs continuous "tending", but if it gets below zero where you live, it might be a good idea (it keeps it warm). Better yet, take it in the house to a safe place away from flames and where any leakage won't hurt.

Just my 2 cents; lay-up procedures are as personal as choice of oil it seems

 

I was just thinking the same thing... Except in AZ it could go home with a winter tan... LOL...

 

Who knows, might even get rewired if it needs it!

 

I back mine in the corner of the shop disconnect the battery and cover it up. Check on the battery in about January or Feb. and charge if needed.
In the spring pour a small amount of fuel in carb and start it with no issues.
I have tractors and other farm equipment that sits outside and sometimes is a year between starting and seldom have a issue. A few months is not a issue in my opinion.
Larry

 

I have the last of real gas in my old vehicles now, so this year it will be my normal routine. Stablite (red) leave gas levels at what ever they are when it is time to put them away. I pack them in tight to make room for other things during the Winter. I cover them up and pretty much forget them till Spring. If it is close to oil change time I change in the Fall otherwise I change in the Spring. I change my oil at around 1000 miles in all my old stuff, so on some of them it is every other year, I try not to go beyond 2 years.

I'm already trying to figure out what to do next Summer and Winter now that our area is all alcohol blends. I picked up some of the Stablite (Green) for fuel I need to buy for Winter tractor/generator use because I have heard that you need to use it all the time in old engines to counteract the alcohol (true???). I also am trying to figure out if I need to change all the rubber fuel lines and add extra filters.

 

I have used a "car jacket" for winter storage for the last 5 years in Ohio and am very happy with it. See link:
Car Jacket Car Bag

Keeps the mice out and I put desiccant in it to keep mold from growing. The desiccant actually comes with the car jacket, you just put it in the oven for a couple hours before you put it in the truck for storage. I always remove the battery also.

Good Luck.