I used a tranny jack and had to lift both front and rear ends as far as my floor jacks would reach.
Also if you still have the stock exhaust, you can unbolt the two-bolt flange.
The downpipe provides a perfect lever for rocking the engine fore and aft when you are re-installing the transmission.

 

I'm dying to get it back in the truck! Supposed to rain like crazy this weekend though. I'll probably put it in next week sometime when I'm off work for our shutdown.

It was $2495 plus $350 core charge which I'm eating to keep the old one. Free shipping. It took about a month to get it since it comes out of Canada.

 

That's right around the same price that I paid when I bought my tranny from Fleet Pride.
IIRC it was $2400.00 delivered to my shop, but the core charge was $1500.00.
Needless to say, I sent my old one back!

 

Dan-

I threw a block of wood in between the crossmember and pan to keep the engine from moving too much but I'll keep that in mind if I do run into trouble. Good thing this is my 2nd shot at it. I also bought some metric bolts to use as guide pins to get the initial alignment right. I cut the heads off and cut some slots in case I need a screwdriver to get them out. I just hand thread them in a couple of holes and that should greatly increase my accuracy in lining up the input splines. I do that on my 64 Falcon when I put in the Toploader. Also, I like to have the trans in direct drive to turn the input shaft a little if it's not clocked right in the first stab.

I have my fittings mocked up and swapped over the reverse sensor. Hopefully I'll make some progress today but I have the next couple of weeks off so I'll have time to do it.

Is there any "break-in" on a NEW transmission like this? I'd like to pull dad's race car trailer with our dirt bikes and camping gear in it over New Years. But I should have a couple hundred miles on it by then.
.

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IIRC, Barney got his trans with the 6.0 updates, HD synchros, and larger input shaft pilot for $2095 with a $1000 core charge. Not sure what the shipping cost was.

 

That's some nice looking pictures there.
I don't think there is any break-in on a gearbox.
I'm also wondering; why the external cooler?

 

Much like a lot of mods on our trucks, not really required but I feel like trying it. Ever since I saw some really high temps towing to my favorite spot in the Sierras at 8000 feet I've decided to do something about it.

First of all I replaced the non working fan clutch. That alone likely would solve all my temp problems. Love the hurricane.

But I had been talking to a friend who builds Porsche race cars and he suggested this particular cooler. If I don't like the way it turns out I can always plumb it back to the radiator.

Transmission temp on vacation. I think it climbed a little higher than that.

 

Update. My dad's been hounding me for his truck back and offering to help put the new transmission in. I called his bluff.

He came over and did the usual swearing when first seeing one of these things.

He's used to Model T's and Model B's with dinky little gear boxes.

I figured it would take a half hour.

I even had my custom made alignment dowels in to assist in the initial line up.

Fork, pivot, and throwout greased and installed.

I've done this before!

I mean, what could slow down this freight train of good intentions?

Four hours later we got the "thunk" of the bell hitting the block.

Alignment dowels made from metric bolts with heads cut off.

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I looked all over the passenger side for a place to mount the filter. I didn't find much real estate there besides outside the frame rail where it'd get pulverized by rocks from the front tire. I finally found this boss on the transmission itself with a pair of what appear to by M14-2 threads. Look in the top middle of this pic. I'm goin to "Mr Metric" tomorrow to see if a couple of them fit. A 1/2-13 bolt is a rattling good fit until it goes in a half inch then binds... Purty sure it's metric.

This is a good shot of the filter boss and it's limitations inherent to it's design. It has two 1/4-20 female threads in a precarious position. I milled the two off and also faced the two ends a bit to make them fit my custom bracket like a matched pair. No way it can sway. I'll post a pic of that when it's up on the trans. I've got the two 3/4 NPT to -6 AN fittings on either side Gasolia'd (thanks Guzzle Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines) also did the pressure gauge I got from Bob at Dieselsite.

 

Well done bro! Good pics!

Stewart

 

I never noticed those two mounting points before.
LOTS of possibilities there.

 

Thanks Stewart. Hope the Mustang clutch went smoother.

Dan- What are you thinking?

I got most of it back together today. Just need to put on the skid plate and the shift boot screws. Today I put in the transfer case, finished mounting the cooler, made the lines, put in the drive shafts, etc.

Oh yeah. Pics.

Here's how the lines look coming out of the trans. I had grand plans to use some braided steel over teflon but couldn't get the fittings to seat right so I used trans cooler line.

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Here's looking down at the custom bracket holding the 1986 Mazda RX7 oil cooler.

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The filter mount fits great.

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My PTO cover installed.

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I'm calling it a night. Letting the silicone on the shifter cure while I watch some good old Pittsburgh Steelers football!

 

Looking good, How much room in between that filter and the drive shaft?

 

Exactly what you did here.

 

About two inches. Let's hope that is enough.

Just drove it up and down the driveway a few times then around the block. It was a STRUGGLE to get it to go into the gears. At one point all it'd go into was OD. Then got R and L going. Then 3rd. Then 4th. Then 1st and 2nd and not 3rd and 4th. Finally all was good. It made a funny noise going into OD when driving it, hopefully not bad but like a spinning bearing sound.

Of course before I could do anything I had developed the dreaded burning out of fuse #30/30A that controls the fuel pump and fuel bowl heater. Unplugged the bowl heater and went to the auto parts store for another few 30A mini fuses. Solved for now.

 

UPDATE: Christmas Eve and she's running great!

No noises. No grinding into gears. Even L and R seem a little easier than when the original ZF6 was new. Maybe they made an update or two.

Now OT but I've got oil oozing down into both sides exhaust manifolds it looks like. Stewart- remember how we were wondering where the oil is going? ALSO have nice blackish fuel. Clear bowl on the Dahl seems awfully dark right now... Might have to just do all the o-rings on the engine at this point as a PM. Just coming up on driving it 12 years.

Oh well. We'll have to have a New Years GTG sometime soon!