Ok i will try over filling the transmission and see if that helps

 

Its been a very very long day...And with working on so many boats all at once, my mind is else where. Where does this go?? And where is the wire under the dash i tap into??

 

Where does what go?

 

hey guys trans is in...Bolted up and ready to throw the crossmember in...Whats the best way to bolt it on. The frame is reallyyy close to the cab on top. should i put the nut on the top of the frame rail?

 

I dunno if I understand your question or not but I'll try to answer. What I did was reattached just like off of my donor. I had to spit and cuss and grunt until I finally got the tail of the trans onto the crossmember and the crossmember on top of the bottom ledge of the frame rail. Then I just dropped the bolts down through the hole and put the nut on from the bottom. That way IF it ever comes loose the nut may fall off but the bolt will still be in the hole and hopefully still somewhat secure the trans.

 

Alright ill try that..Last question, i hope. Can i get some more detailed information on the driveshaft spacer you made redman? Like i mentioned before i have a 1997 Exted cab. And used a 93 ext cab donor. Im sticking with my Transfercase. And wanted to use my driveshaft because of the way it just bolts on. Im not a huge fan of slip joints. So i suppose i need to make a spacer. Or should i swap my bolt on yoke to the 93 drive shaft. Could you post a pic of your set up. Thank you for all the help you've been. Its really kept me going forward

 

No problem dude. I enjoy seeing folks succed on this and it's something I can actually help a bit with.

No pics until tomorrow at the very least. Can't get on photobucket here at work. If you want to keep your t case you have two options. You can either shorten your original rear driveshaft(PITA and $$) to the length you need it OR just swap the bolt on yoke to the 93's driveshaft and you won't have to have it shortened. That's what I did but somehow I came up exactly 1" short. And I don't have access to enough trucks or measurements to figure out where the missing length went. I'd like to have measurements of the rear driveshafts from a 5 speed 4x4 ext cab with a BW 1356 and a 5 speed 4x4 ext cab with a BW 4407. Anyway, I digressed.

If you put the bolt on flange on the front of the donor's rear shaft you'll need a new u joint. Then crawl down there and bolt it onto the rear diff and before you secure the carrier bearing in that "C" strap thing lift the rest of the shaft up to see if it hits flush on the back of the t case. My guess is it's gonna be 1" short. I essentially just used four 1" heavy duty steel spacers. Their inside diameters were just large enough to allow the bolt to pass through. I'd rather have a piece of steel 1" flat stock to fill the void but the spacers have given me no trouble yet(knock on wood). And you'll also need bolts 1" longer than the stock ones. I've got probably $2 in the bolts and spacers.

 

Ok another post I started, i know its old but thought Ii should give you an update

Its been almost 4 months since I did this swap and almost 10k miles, and I love it, would never think of going back, the clutch releasing high was a easy fix, i adjusted the arm on the side of the pedal boxes, the trans is still a little noisy (single mass flywheel) i hope, the worse thing is the damn wheel hope now, its bad, really bad, but I dont know i will try and figure a fix for that soon.

 

man i wish i could trade my auto set up for a manual!!

 

For the wheel hop issues you could make traction bars for the rear. If you do a search for it on here you can find several good write-ups. I don't have any links handy right now...

 

If you want to swap to an auto I have a 96 f250 7.3l 2wd psd with an e40d with 207k mi on it. I've been looking for zf5 to put into my truck and I live In san antonio, tx.

 

I love this thread! And I'm glad it is not dead. I've been gathering parts to do my auto to manual swap for quite a while.

I have a 93 Crew cab 4wd 7.3 idi non-turbo. I have a 91 parts truck(reg cab) with trans and transfer case and have also come up with a 97 trans and transfer case, both are diesel transmissions. I just recently came up with the driveshafts from a 93 crew cab diesel from a local salvage in Tulsa. I had noticed that the 97 transfer case had a flange and not the slip yoke and figured I'd deal with that later. But better sooner than later. I guess at worst I'll use my orig transfer case (and the slip yoke), which I know is good or even the one from the 91 and they'll fit the driveshafts from the salvage 93.

GreaseMonky,
I don't know if this is at all what is going on with yours or if it'll be helpfull, but in my experience with older vehicles, wheel hop has been mostly caused by roughness in the area of the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. And when you couple that with all the slack in a worn driveline it causes all sorts of hoping and irritation. In older fords my fix was always to turn/machine the flywheel at the bare minimum. And usually put in a new clutch and pressure plate just to be sure.

Thank you guys for all your contributions!

 

 

The OP hasn't been on in almost four years. That said, if you need both the master and slave, your best bet is to get a pre-bled kit -- master, line and slave, pre-built, filled, bled. Takes about 15 minutes to install and NO bleeding. RockAuto should have at least one choice; IIRC the FLAPS are starting to feature them as well.