It should work then. Having one for a manual in a manual is desirable although not mandatory. You cannot run an auto with a manual PCM however. I've heard that there are desirable ones to have but I do not know if it's true and which codes to look for if so. You know though, I think you may have to have one for your injector type. Depending on whether or not you have AB code injectors. I'd start a new thread with your PCM question and I'm sure you will get lots of good answers. And again, if you are like me, the cruise control thing may be an issue. I'd rather have cruise than the manual programming so I kept my auto PCM and sold the manual. I'll just have it reburned or get a chip programmed for manual.

 

Both trucks had cruise so i think I should be good there.

 

Nice man. Well I'd just check to make sure that they are coded for your injectors. The cab configuration and 4x4 etc has no bearing though.

 

Ok so my clutch came today, looks great, a few questions, what way does the piolt bushing go into the flywheel? Engine side/Clutch side?

I need to remove the spacer behind the auto flexplate? And the aluminum adapter plate?

What about the dowels?

 

I can't remember about the pilot bushing. Did it but forgot. I'm thinking the clutch side though.

Take out the little round spacer that the flxplate bolts go through. Leave the big aluminum spacer. That is what your starter mounts to.

I don't know about dowels. I didn't mess with any.

 

The starter actually bolted to the bellhousing on the 5 speed truck, and i thought i read somewhere that the aluminium plate comes off, cant find it now, o well you guys are the expert

 

Hmm. What year was the 5 speed again? I was thinking that my starter bolted to the spacer. Even if it doesn't bolt to it I think you need it to keep the starter "bendix" out of the flywheel when retracted otherwise it might be too close. I just duplicated my donor truck when doing my swap and it had the same exact spacer as mine to the very last detail. But my donor was a 95 PSD.

 

Ii was wrong on the starter, it needed the aluminum plate, so i got the flywheel on and tourqed, clutch and pressure plate on, tarns bolted up crossmemeber in, new MBRP 3" down pipe installed, but thats all i got done. Had a late start, and I am working all by myself at a friends house in there barn, but atleast I am dry, and I brought most of my tools

 

All you got done?! That's the hardest part. Way to go man! You'll feel the victory soon.

 

I know I just wish I had gotten farther along, didn't make much progress today either, got the pedals pulled from another donor truck, and a manual PCM, had do drive about 2 hours round trip to get them, made it back and got the pedals installed in my truck, and the steering column back installed.

I do have a few questions, since I am using a manual ECM do I still need to jump some "pins" and if i do where are they and which ones?

Also has anyone done the EBPV exhaust brake? I am really thinking about doing this myself, since I tow a lot.

 

You don't have to jump any pins on the computer. You may or may not have to jump some wires in the trans/t case harness. See this thread and read post #10. The whole thead in general may be beneficial but #10 is very specific to this topic. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html That should give you a lot of info. If not enough ask away and I'll see if I can help.

As for the EBPV. Most folks say that it is a poor excuse for an exhaust brake and just raises EGTs which are going to be your enemy anyway while towing. If I were you I'd gut that bad boy. Your manual tranny will help you slow down better than the auto did. And if it isn't enough then I'd look into a rear disc brake kit or an actual exhaust brake kit.

 

Thanks a lot redman that was exactly what I needed now off to see if I can get this truck finished today

 

Ok i got the truck all back together, I got lucky on the wiring everything worked, i didnt have to switch any pins. I had a lttle issue when i first tried to start the truck the 4x4 bar that connects between the shifter and the transfercase was to short so the transfercase was not in gear, kinda raised my blood pressure a little for a few seconds.

It was a fairly simple swap in my opinion. pretty straight forward, truck drives good, i like they way it feels, cant wait to get a load behind it, it does seem to be geared a little lower then my auto, rpms are higher on the freeway.

Ii do have a few questions, I put new hydraulics in, but my clutch seems to release kinda high maybe about halfway? Ii ll look again later. And my downpipe is hitting the firewall and making it extremly loud inside the truck.


I would recomend this swap to any one considering, I did it in a barn, on the ground, with no jack, or jackstands, with only hand tools. And i am only into the swap the price of the clutch, i would recomend a doner truck if possible, i made all my money back on that.




And p.s. REDMAN Thanks for all the help, you made this swap go alot smother, I appreciate it alot.

 

Ok i drove the truck home today about 10 miles, and the clutch dont feel right, its like its catching way top, and there is a ton of wasted space down at the bottom of the pedal travel.

Any ideas?

 

sounds like the same crap my 93 was doing it was a bent clutch fork, did you use your 97 transfercase or the one from the 92?? all your wires worked hu?? hope i get that lucky, my doner is a 93 in to a 96. what was the worst part??