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Tested for the breaking point on the early 4 spark plug thread heads

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Tested for the breaking point on the early 4 spark plug thread heads

 
  #16  
Old 10-11-2010, 05:55 PM
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Yeah, by the way, I wasn't trying to shoot you down for what you accomplished

It's just that it's not all she wrote, if you know what I mean
 
  #17  
Old 10-11-2010, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordfanatic4life View Post
i think the only thing he was trying to prove was teh myth of any amount of overtightening with the early non-PI heads would pull the threads clean out..i think his examples clearly show even the worst heads on these motors have more then enuf strength to hold teh plugs in if checked and tightened properly..

ps THX bill for being nice enuf to test a set of heads out.. 3 cheers..
Originally Posted by DavidB View Post
As Art and Perry indicated, your test does not replicate real world conditions. Just to say that the head will withstand significant overtightening sitting cold does not indicate what will happen if the plug is overtightened and then goes through several heat cycles. Also What happens when the overtightened plug is removed and another plug is installed, even if installed correctly, it may not hold as it should due to damage that may have occurred when the first plug was overtightened.
Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
Yeah, by the way, I wasn't trying to shoot you down for what you accomplished

It's just that it's not all she wrote, if you know what I mean
I know you are not trying to shoot down what I did, I agree with everything you said.

All I wanted to do is show that the threads are not just going to strip at 25 ft lbs or blow holes in the hood running boost, and that they are not a weak design. This was just to back up my statments that they will always stay in if they are installed right. IMO, it proves just that.

I am very happy with the results, the heads did much better than I thought they would. What I expected was around 60 ft lbs the threads would give and the plug would just spin in the head.

My plugs will still be going in the same as always, 14 ft lbs with antiseize.
There are too many things that have to be taken into acount to ever think that you can come up with a better torque spec than Ford.

Next time I have a scrap head, I want to test something else kind of on the same note. I would like to see at what torque the plug goes past the spot it should rest in the head.
 
  #18  
Old 10-11-2010, 10:35 PM
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Reps sent, Bill
 
  #19  
Old 10-11-2010, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Zedrive View Post
Reps sent, Bill
Thanks, right back at you

Originally Posted by Ricohman View Post
Its an F350. So what interval for the first plug change.
50 000kms?
100,000 miles on all the V10s.
I change mine at 50,000 becuase they seem to not perform as well after that, at least for my use. Thats 50K of high rpm towing and much more idle time than most, so they should last longer under normal use.

On the 3Vs the sooner they are changed the less likly they are to get stuck, or so I have been told.
 
  #20  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:03 AM
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Thanks again Bill I feel better about having bought a V10 Excursion now.

Perry
 
  #21  
Old 10-19-2010, 02:44 PM
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Thanks for all of the great information I just purchased a 2005 3500 dually 2 wheel drive with 56,000 miles and V10. I became very concerned after hearing rumors of spark plug thread problems. Are most of you sticking with the motocraft spark plug or I have heard that champion offers a one piece design that has less chance of breaking while removing. Any oppinions would be most appreciated.

Tonto
 
  #22  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:12 PM
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3 valve plugs

For the 3 valve V-10s, I do recommend using the one piece champion spark plugs. I know everyone says use autolite or motorcraft, but the only plugs I recommend out of my parts store for the 3 valves are the champions. I believe the part number is 7898.
 
  #23  
Old 10-19-2010, 08:42 PM
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I would check into NGK. They are not cheap but they are a step above the American brands I have seen and they have alot of history in aluminum heads. I don't know about two piece versus 1 piece though. Go plantinum and chances are you won't have to replace them again.

Perry
 
  #24  
Old 10-19-2010, 10:45 PM
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I have heard that the modulars do not like NGKs.
 
  #25  
Old 10-19-2010, 11:13 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to reply guys. I use NGK in all our atv and dirt bikes with no problems what so ever any idea why they would not work as well in Modular engines?

Tonto
 
  #26  
Old 10-20-2010, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonto57 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to reply guys. I use NGK in all our atv and dirt bikes with no problems what so ever any idea why they would not work as well in Modular engines?

Tonto
It came up in a thread awhile back. I looked but could not find the thread.

After using NGKs the poster had a miss. He changed them for Motorcraft and it fixed the missing. A few others posted and made it sound like a fairly common proplem using NGKs in the 4.6/5.4 and 6.8 engines.


All I have is 2Vs and in them I use nothing but Motorcraft.
 
  #27  
Old 10-20-2010, 05:20 PM
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This is a great forum learning so much about the V10. I was ready to put a set of NGK plugs in the truck but will stick with motocraft instead.

Tonto
 
  #28  
Old 10-20-2010, 06:36 PM
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Have you read the threads about the 3V plug problems, and removing them if they break?
 
  #29  
Old 10-20-2010, 06:49 PM
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Yes I have read the threads and it is pretty scarry! I have a thirty day warranty on the truck from the dealer where I bought it and really considering having them change the plugs just in case. Service Department says they have never run into a broken plug and if one broke it would be covered under the 30 day warranty. What do you guys think

Tonto
 
  #30  
Old 10-20-2010, 06:55 PM
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How much do they want for a plug change?
 

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