First Generation Explorer High Performance Disk Rotor Installation
By Mark Strickland
Disclaimer: The following document outlines
procedures for modifying the braking system on a Ford Explorer. The
author assumes no liability for any direct or indirect damage, injury,
loss of property or life resulting from the use of these instructions.
The author assumes no liability for the contents of this document or its
accuracy. Follow these procedures at your own risk.
| Most owners of First Generation Explorers have at one point or another have wished they had better front brakes. Whether it is becuase they don’t work well enough in the wet, overheat to easy, don’t last long enough, warp to easily or just plain don’t work well enough, period. There are cross drilled rotors available to help overcome the problem of heat or water but they still don’t last any longer. The answer isn’t in cutting more and more of the rotor away, but changing the strength of the rotor. There is a process called cryogenics that can help strengthen metal. According to Applied Rotor Technology "The freezing of metal in an effort to increase its durability and strength has been practiced for some thirty years within various industries. The tool and die industry regularly uses this approach to temper and extend the life of steel tooling bits. " … "By cryo-treating a metal part, the molecular structure is made more uniform, more durable and much stronger. " |
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After reading about chryogenics used in other indusstries and having warped yet another set of rotors I decided it was worth a shot. A quick call to Dean at ART (805)583-4624 and just over $300, I received 2 front brake rotors and a set of Brake Pads. |
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| Installation | ||||
| Replacing Brake Rotors on the Ford Explorer is a relitivly simple procedure. In addition to basic hand tools you will need a telescoping pen magnet and a 2 1/8th inch hub socket. These instructions will assume you are still running stock Ford automatic hubs. If you are running Warn manual hubs the basic steps are the same but the removal of the hub willl be different.
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| There is no graceful method to remove the slide pins. We used a hammer along with an old screw driver. You must push the slide pins in by pushing each side of the pin into the caliper. Once the locks have passed the ridge they will push right through. |
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Once the slide pins (both) are removed hang the caliper out of the way. Make sure the caliper does not hang by the brake line. Remove the snap-ring with a screwdriver (hold your finger over the snap ring to keep it from flying away). |
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| After the snap ring is removed, remove the axleshaft spacer. |
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Next remove the cam from the spindle. After you remove the cam, remove the two plastic thrust spacer, being careful to not damage them. |
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| Using a pic or pen magnet remove they locking key. You may have to turn the nut slightly (using the 2 1/8" socket) to free up the key. Do NOT attempt to remove the nut before removing the key as this will destroy the nut. |
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| Using a 2 3/8" hex locknut wrench, remove the locking nut. At this point you can remove the rotor and both the inner and outer bearings. If you don’t have a oil seal remover you can reinstall the locknut. Once installed you can pull the roter and the locking nut will pull the bearing against the oil seal and remove them both. Inspect the bearings. If you see any maring or blueing |
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| Install one packed bearing into the inner bearing race on the rotor. Now install an oil seal. Once installed place the rotor back onto the axle spindle. Install the outer bearing and the locking nut. Spin the rotor as you tighten the nut to 35 ft pounds. Now loosen the locking nut 1/4 turn. Retighten the nut to 16 inch pounds. Install the key into the closest keyway. If necessary, tighten the nut slightly to allow the key to be inserted. Install the two thrust spacers Install the cam by pushing it over the adjusting nut making sure the keys align between the cam and the spindle. Install the axleshaft spacer and then the snap-ring on the end of the axle spindle. |
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| You can now install your new brake pads into the caliper and install the caliper. If necessary, compress the caliper pistosn by using a c-clamp. Be sure to put your old brake shoes over the caliper piston as you do not want to damage the caliper. It is recomended that you open the bleeder valve on the caliper before you attempt to compress the piston. Be sure to grease the slide pin before you install them. You need to use "brake caliper grease". Bearing grease and many other common greases will not work as they will either wash away, cook away or get gummy with dirt. Once the calipers are installed you can bleed the brakes and install the tires and be on your way… |
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Results Braking performance is greatly improved
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