Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 03:07:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <>
To: small-list digest users <>
Subject: small-list Digest V2001 #14
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small-list Digest Thu, 18 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 014

In This Issue:
Re: Brakes on '98 4x4 4.0L
Subscription to forum at
Re: ODB II question
Advice requested please


From: Bolte Brent <>
Subject: Re: Brakes on '98 4x4 4.0L
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:59:38 -0500

Sounds like another case of not properly using a torque
wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts.  One of the biggest
causes of warped rotors now days is people using air
guns to tighten the wheel lug nuts instead of tightening
then with a torque wrench as they should.  From what I've
read having one lug nut tightened as much as 10 ft/lbs
more than the others is enough to cause warping of the
disc rotor over a short period of time.  Today's lighter
rotors tend to build up more heat during braking and
with lug nuts that are not tightened evenly (which puts
uneven pressure on the center hub of the rotor), the
rotor ends up warping.  Its amazing how many dealers and
even shops that specialize in brake repair still use air
guns to put wheel lug nuts on instead of using a
torque wrench as they should.  Some air guns now days
have torque settings on them, but from what I've
found they are about as accurate as using a air gun
without them.

Later, Brent

On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 "Joe M" wrote:

> Dude
> You must be hard as hell on your brakes to warp that
> many rotors.  I have a 99 4x4 and I just replaced the
> brakes at 33K.  The brakes were great up to this point
> and since I put on Raybestos, the brakes cant be better
> (except for the squeal).
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 6:50 PM
> To:
> Subject: [small-list] Re: Brakes on '98 4x4 4.0L
> Jim,
> Yep, been there.  I have 98 extended cab 4 door 2x4
> with 4.0.  I have complained about the brakes from the
> first day I picked up the truck.  That was 60,000 miles
> ago.  You literally have to stand on the brakes to stop
> the truck coming out of my semi-steep driveway.  Panic
> stops are just that....panic city.  I plan ahead for
> braking.
> After 3 rotor turnings (warped rotors),  they replaced
> the rotors and pads at 33,000 miles.  12,000 miles later
> they warped again.  Rears have been turned and replaced....
This message has been checked by KONE Corporation for the presence of computer viruses


Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:57:07 -0500
Subject: Subscription to forum at

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Messages posted in Explorer And Explorer Sport Trac
"RE: Brake Upgrade"
    Posted by Paul on 01/16/2001 23:54:47

"RE:  recall HELP!!"
    Posted by winfordr on 01/17/2001 11:05:27

"Referral for tranny work in Raleigh,NC?"
    Posted by thirdsuv on 01/17/2001 13:40:38

"RE: 97 Explorer SOHC"
    Posted by carlessinfremont on 01/17/2001 14:05:20

"RE: 1998 SOHC Detonation"
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"Vacuum Lines"
    Posted by mxer201 on 01/17/2001 14:51:20

"Should I paint my radiator?"
    Posted by paddlefish on 01/17/2001 14:52:21

"RE: Brake Upgrade"
    Posted by heavyfoot on 01/17/2001 16:43:43

"RE: 97 Explorer SOHC"
    Posted by new2ford on 01/17/2001 16:48:42

"RE: 97 Explorer SOHC"
    Posted by gremlin_ca on 01/17/2001 18:11:04

"97 explorer 4X4 sport rear-end clunk"
    Posted by stutzmds on 01/17/2001 22:19:52

"RE: 97 explorer 4X4 sport rear-end clunk"
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"RE: Should I paint my radiator?"
    Posted by Paul on 01/17/2001 23:44:17

"RE: 97 explorer 4X4 sport rear-end clunk"
    Posted by ptong on 01/18/2001 02:59:29

"RE: Vacuum Lines"
    Posted by tmburke on 01/18/2001 11:38:18

Messages posted in Aerostar
"Brake system 3-way combination valve leak?..."
    Posted by MarkP on 01/17/2001 18:33:12

    Posted by 87f2504x4 on 01/17/2001 21:07:21

    Posted by 94 ford on 01/18/2001 09:40:49

    Posted by Mikeman on 01/18/2001 10:01:34

    Posted by turbobill on 01/18/2001 16:11:16

Messages posted in Ranger
"RE: Remote Starter"
    Posted by AlM on 01/17/2001 06:23:38

"RE: stick shifter change?"
    Posted by thelonerangerxlt on 01/17/2001 11:42:59

"87 Ranger Timing Belt right but won't run"
    Posted by timwj on 01/17/2001 20:35:50

"RE: New Ranger 2000"
    Posted by mwittman on 01/18/2001 08:09:03

"RE: 87 Ranger Timing Belt right but won't run"
    Posted by thelonerangerxlt on 01/18/2001 10:14:24

"RE: High Mileage"
    Posted by stevieray on 01/18/2001 16:16:41

Messages posted in Escape
"RE: Escape SUV club?"
    Posted by D on 01/18/2001 08:37:46

"RE: 4WD Escape"
    Posted by katydude on 01/18/2001 08:56:13

"RE: 4WD Escape"
    Posted by D on 01/18/2001 14:03:36


From: "Joe M" <>
Subject: Re: ODB II question
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 19:29:19 -0500

Hey David

I received my scanner and I checked my codes.  This time it was not the gas
cap problem as the dealer always told me but Code 401 and 402 which is EGR
flow.  I know we had some posting on this before and I checked for the 2
small tubes but can not find them.  Can you tell me if a 99 Ranger with the
3.0L has those tubes and if so, were would I be looking.  Also getting the
401 and 402 code at the same time point to a flow sensor?


-----Original Message-----
[]On Behalf Of David Cooley
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: ODB II question
or pull the battery cable off for a minute or so.

-----Original Message-----
[]On Behalf Of Joe M
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: [small-list] ODB II question

Does any one know of a ODB II tool I can use on my 99 Ranger to reset the
code when my fuel cap is not installed properly.  I am getting tired of
taken to ford and having them reset the code.


Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 23:05:56 +0000
From: Adam McLaughlin <>
Subject: Advice requested please

Manual Transmission Advocates, Your advice and thoughts are requested on

Las Summer, I installed a new clutch in my Baby Bronco. I bought the
best one Napa had, and I replaced the disk, pressure plate, throw out
bearing, flywheel and pilot bearing.

It has been 2000 miles since then, and I am very happy with this new
clutch. Smooth engagement and a firm pedal.

Except for the following condition: When I wash down the transmission
after a thorough day of four wheeling, the clutch will slip on me when I
leave the car wash. It only does this for a second or two, and then
everything returns to normal. This is due to the water that enters the
bellhousing when I rinse off the bottom of the Transmission.

Now, I try to stay out of the water when four wheeling, but sometimes
you just have to get into it.

I am wondering how a high performance/specialty clutch compares. If I
buy a Dual Friction Center force for the B2 (At approximately $300
compared to my Napa Heavy duty at $160) will there be a noticeable

Are those CenterForces really any better? Does anyone notice anything?

If I sprayed water inside the bellhousing with the CenterForce
installed, would it also slip?

I have heard many people offer many different opinions on the
CenterForce clutches when used on the V6 Rangers and B2s, but I want to
know if there would be any *real* performance to gain if I were to swap
out my Napa for a Dual Friction.

Any input would be appreciated.


1988 B2, 200+HP V6, Detroit Locker out back, Lock Right up front 4.10s
and 31" tires.


End of small-list Digest V2001 #14
Ford  Truck  Enthusiasts  Small Chassic Truck Mailing List
Covering the Ranger, Bronco II, Exploer and Aerostar

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