Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 04:00:50 -0600 (MDT)
From: (fordtrucks-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #230

fordtrucks-digest Sunday, September 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 230

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

ADMIN: New list [Ken Payne ]
RE: semi-metallic shoes [DC Beatty ]
Cool Pics ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
BTUs 'R' Us..! []
Re: Compression Ratios [Daver ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! []
Draining Yer 9"... []
Re: Compression Ratios [Daver ]
Re: Acronym [Daver ]
Re: Acronym ["deconblu" ]
Re: Assorted questions []



Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 21:55:17 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: New list

Just came back from dinner and was giving the new list some
thought. I think performing the split this weekend is a mistake.
A good deal of the members get the list at their work or school
email address. I'm going to postpone the split until Tuesday
evening. This will give everyone a chance to response.


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 22:35:47 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: semi-metallic shoes

No Gary, it didn't improve. I had excellent braking before and it's still=

the same. They felt a little different for a day or so, but I assume that=
because they had to seat themselves like most brake shoes. Now the pedal =
real hard and it stops great, except for the obnoxious squealing of cours=
Hell, try 'em. Couldn't hurt, except in the wallet. I paid $55 for one
set!!! And now they squeal!!! Arrrggghhh!!!

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302 =

> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 12:29:03 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: semi-metallic shoes

> I recently installed semi-metallic front brake shoes on drum brakes.
> After a couple hundred miles, they began to squeal when stopping.
> It's annoying. I was wondering if anybody on the list had experience
> with these. Does it go away after awhile? =

Did they improve the stopping power? My brakes are horrible IMHO and =

everything is in good condition so metalics might be my next step?

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 22:07:38 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Cool Pics

Check out
Nice Pics!

dale c


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 20:42:44 -0700
Subject: BTUs 'R' Us..!

Thanks to all the people who gave tips on how to fix my '71 F100 heater a
couple months ago...

I've got a new heater core, new valve, new hoses, blower moves plenty of air,
no pine needles in vents, etc, and still the heater is marginal, even with
these mild/chilly fall mornings. When COLD gets here it will suck again.
I have to accept the fact that the stock F100 w/FE390 heater doesn't work
worth beans...

It's funny, from the people I've talked with, the 302 guys seem to think
the early
truck heaters work good, while many FE truck owners think the heater is
It takes a long time for the FE to warm up enough to get some heat going,
and even then it isn't very warm. A 195F thermostat helps a little, but
not enough. (run 180F in summer)
I wonder if there is a problem with heater coolant flow on FE's?

Is there less pressure differential across the inlet/outlet hoses
on FE than on 302? (Moves coolant thru heater core slower?)

Something is up, cuz mine's ALL new and still just doesn't cut it...
A bigger heater core isn't gonna fit my box and ducting, and Pick'N'Pull
hasn't had any useful housings that will fit mine, so I decided to quit
fooling around and put a Bosch gas fired heater in it. (I have 2)

This is a non-Ford fix but should be VERY nice.. (-:
The Bosch heater was a rare option for old VW's in cold climates.
It's a real neat old (60's) german unit. It draws 3 amps off a 12v battery
(well, it used to draw 6 amps off 6V, but I built a converter), and it runs
for 12+ hours on a gallon of gasoline or kerosene and makes *lotsa* heat
(1750 Kcal/hour on gasoline) even with the engine off!!
It has a stainless steel heat exchanger, electric fuel pump, glow plug
and a cute little 1-1/2" exhaust pipe that sticks out under the truck...
It has it's own forced air blower and I can duct the hot air into the cab
and/or the camper shell. (-:

I've built the 12V to 6V converter and "modernized" safety control circuitry
and mounted the heater under the hood, but still gotta mount the fuel pump and
plumb it in, run the air ducting, and hookup all the wiring.
Let Ya know how it works..

A new (??) way to keep an old Ford warm...
I hope we have a good cold winter so I can test it! (Well, maybe not...)

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:09:47 -0500
From: Daver
Subject: Re: Compression Ratios wrote:
> Compression Ratios are funny things, and there are many variables that effect
> the bottom line (which is cylinder pressure)
> Compression Ratio is really a variable that effects the cylinder pressure and
> is of it itself not the bottom line. Camshaft durations and timing can
> seriously effect cylinder pressure as well.
> I have worked with a few computer programs that can calculate cylinder
> pressure based upon such things as compression ratios, camshaft info, etc.
> For example, the 460 I have has 9.5:1 Compression, and has a RV-type cam.
> These two factors contribute to a fairly high cylinder pressure number, but
> since I live at Altitude 6000', the ambient air pressure is lower and hence
> so is cylinder pressure and so I can run on 85 octane gas with no problem.
> My key point (if you can dig it out of all that) is that the compression
> ratio is simply one factor in a group of factors that effect Cylinder
> Pressure.
> - Mike

Good point Mike; thus, the difference between static and dynamic
compression as you point out so well (cylinder pressure.




Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:11:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

I just caught this as a new subscriber but do have some advice you may wish
to consider:

1. The radiator is likely large and cools alot during the winter. You can
put a piece of cardboard in front to raise the temperature. This will help
your gas mileage also.

2. Make sure the thermostat is at least 190F. Any lower and it will run
your engine too cool. This will help mileage a bit also.

3. Make sure your coolant mixture isn't too "rich", this will cut down on
the ability of the coolant to transfer heat off.

Good luck!


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 21:11:40 -0700
Subject: Draining Yer 9"...

Has anyone out there ever added a drain plug to Your 9" so You can change
the juice with less hassle?

I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing near
the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a drain plug.

Any thoughts, words of wisdom, or horror stories before I do such a thing?

Dreaming of clean fluid,

Steve Delanty


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:15:18 -0500
From: Daver
Subject: Re: Compression Ratios

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
> > From:
> > Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 09:56:21 -0400 (EDT)
> > Subject: Re: Compression Ratios
> > I have worked with a few computer programs that can calculate
> > cylinder pressure based upon such things as compression ratios,
> > camshaft info, etc.
> Does anyone know if Desk Top Dyno or Engine Analyzer will do this
> efficiently? Accurately?
> The swift of foot and slow of wit
> have more off road experiences
> -- Gary --

Not desk top dyno. Gary send me yer E-adress.




Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:22:04 -0500
From: Daver
Subject: Re: Acronym

Joe D wrote:
> Theres also the little jingle:
> Chevy Chevy there the Best drive a mile and walk the Rest...Ford
> The BEST never Rest..........
> JOe

I'd rather push a ford than drive a chevy.




Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 22:35:33 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Acronym

>I'd rather push a ford than drive a chevy.

It could never happen daver! Gary's address is in his e-mail. Here it is

Deacon Blues
Visit my Homepage at
or send me a fan or flame at not both. Never fan a flame!


Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:18:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Assorted questions

If my memory serves me correctly a 1957 to 1959 ford 9" rear end out of
a pick-up is a direct bolt, in size wise. ( "U" joints may be an issue
but I am pretty sure you can find a set that will work or you have to
change the input yoke on the rear end, something like that. ) Also be
sure to get the "U" bolts and plate that mount the axial to the spring.
I did the same swap about 15 years ago on a 56 and I think it will work
on a 54.

Good luck



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