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From: (pre61-list-digest)
Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #384
Precedence: bulk

pre61-list-digest Friday, December 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 384

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Pre61 - Truck Bed Replacement
FTE Pre61 - Low Oil Pressure
RE: FTE Pre61 - Re: still trying to start truck engine
Re: FTE Pre61 - voting on the new list
FTE Pre61 - Re: My 52 F-1
FTE Pre61 - transmission noise
Re: FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Trailer Hitch
FTE Pre61 - Thanks Lee



Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:52:57 EST
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Truck Bed Replacement

In a message dated 12/22/1999 6:46:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

> Nothing looks as good as Red Oak boards, stained natural and then 10 coats
> Polyurethane. Less work than plywood, looks original and looks best. The
> stainless steel strips make the finishing touch. If the truck is being
> restored to original you must use black painted strips. That's my opinion.
Could have sworn that the original boards were hard pine.
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:22:38 -0800
From: "Dewayne Reding">
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Low Oil Pressure


RE: the high mileage 302 with low oil pressure when warm. What you almost
surely have is excessive main journal/main bearing wear. The oil pumps are
pretty reliable now days so changing that alone rarely fixes the problem. I
assume you would rather not do a complete overhaul of the short block so
here is a fairly low buck way to bump the oil pressure and squeeze some more
miles out of most any V-8 and especially small block fords. I would drop
the pan and install some .001 oversized main bearings (one thousandth, not
ten thousandths oversize like you would do if you grind the crank
undersized). Then install a high volume oil pump and put the pan back on.
I have done this for many customers. While I can't promise it will work, I
have never seen it fail me yet. Not unusual for a motor to increase from 5
PSI to 30+ PSI and that is enough to keep her alive. Also, always change
the rear main seal while the pan is off (if a two piece seal) and loosen the
accessory drive belts to make it much easier to get the old main
bearings/rear seal out. If you have never been deep in a motor, find
someone who has to inspect.

Dewayne Reding
53 F100
95 F150

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:38:25 -0600
From: "Terry">
Subject: [none]

neither of these questions relates to pre 61's but you are a smart bunch

I am always bring refered to as a smart ASS. Does that count?

Question A) - ~1970 302 in truck I bought recently that hadn't been ran for
long in years
thermostat didn't seem to be opening - went to replace tstat & found the
thermostat housing and nearby hoses totally plugged with something that
looks like cheese -

Get some lye, potash, potassium or sodium hydroxide, or radiator flush.
Whatever you care to call it, should help break down the mud. If no luck,
dilute some miuratic acid and poor on the obstructions for a few minutes. If
you leave the thermostat out and wash out the system once or twice with the
little bottle of radiator flush, it should work. You need to have the motor
running at normal temp to work best. If the weather is very cold cover the
front of the radiator so you dont freeze it up. YOu may also need to rot the
radiator out if the mess is as bad as it sounds.

Question 2) our one work truck is an old tired 88 F150 with equally tired
302 but still runs/drives OK - oil pressure is very low especially when
hot - in the cold weather would we be better to run 5w or 10w

Depending how cold is cold. If subzero, then you might not have much choice
other than 10w. I have never favored lighter oil in sb fords. If you dont
see much below freezing then 10w40 or 20w50 is fine, just dont rev up the
motor when starting it up. Your low oil pressure is usually due to cam
bearings, if you dont hear a hollowish knocking when the motor first starts.
If you do hear the knock it is the mains. Either way low oil pressure is a
sign of near death on a later model small block, so dont abuse it too hard.

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:30:29 -0500
From: "Miguel.....">
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Re: still trying to start truck engine

A good option I have used to start or turn an engine is winding a cable on
the crankshaft pulley. then pull it..thatīll turn it over.

- -----Mensaje original-----
De: Kreig McBride>
Fecha: jueves 30 de diciembre de 1999 2:07
Asunto: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: still trying to start truck engine

>Oh. Some one recommended I tap the pistons. Guess that option isn't an
>This internet thing isn't so good. Now everyone in the whole world knows
>much of a dummy I am.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: sam fugate>
>Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 5:03 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: still trying to start truck engine
>>Hey Kreig,
>>How are you tapping the top of the pistons with the heads still on the
>>The flathead engines valves are directly under the spark plug holes (well,
>>almost) not the pistons. The only way to tap the pistons is to remove the
>>Just a little input.
>>Sam in Mount Sterling
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Kreig McBride>
>>Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 5:27 PM
>>Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: still trying to start truck engine
>>> OK Ok OK
>>> Heres the plan with the Ford Flathead V8
>>> I will fill all cylinders to the top with a penetrating liquid.
>>> I will gently tap on the piston tops with a wood or soft brass rod to
>>> "loosen" the pistons.
>>> I will continue to try and rotate the engine using one of several very
>>> gentle methods as recommended.
>>> When all else fails I will remove the heads and have a look-see.
>>> Towing the truck to rotate the engine is not an option.
>>> I was hoping to get the engine running and avoid a rebuild but we will
>>> Thanks for all of the help.
>>> Kreig in Bellingham
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 20:51:43 -0800
From: "Ray Cardogno">
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - voting on the new list

Been there, Thought that. I decided however after a certain amount of disagreement, that I was wrong. I think the spirit of the law will take precidence over the letter of the law and we can pretty much go about our business with an occaisional reference here and there to heretical issues, but if someone really wants do dealve into Issues about their MOPAR suspension, CHEVY engine, or TOYOTA steering (are we all still OK?), then this new list would be JUST THE PLACE :)

On a more immediate note, I think this turning of the millenium will be our best yet!
- --

On Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:19:16 JRFiero wrote:
>In a message dated 12/19/1999 6:51:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> writes:
>> Why have only 52 people voted ???
>- Because its the wrong question. Should instead be a carefully worded
>question about allowing limited discussion of non-Ford parts.
>- Because numerous of us, I bet, never (almost never) go to the website. I
>just did, it took me an inordinate amount of time to find the 'voting' area,
>and even then I didn't vote, 'cause of response 1 above.
>- Because we don't know what a 'No' vote means. I don't think there should
>be separate list, but that's because 1) I get too much mail from various
>lists already, and 2) I don't think the valid Ford content and experience of
>those who have non-Ford engines should be removed from the lists I do pay
>attention to (or, to which I do pay attention). So a 'no' vote could mean
>all that, or it could mean I don't want to hear about non-Ford stuff.
>- Therefore, I'm not voting.
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Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:25:40 -0500
From: Petra and Lee Slezak>
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: My 52 F-1


I checked out your website and it looks like you are well on your way to
a very nice ride. When looking at the picture of the passenger side of
the engine it appears that you don't have a temp sensor hooked up to
that head. I have a friend that only had a sensor on the driver side
head of his flathead and the passenger side thermostat stuck shut while
driving it one day. Because of the design of the cooling system in the
flatheads by the time the driver side got hot and showed on the gauge
the engine was toasted. I immediately ran a second sensor and gauge on
my flathead (1 driver side and 1 passenger side) and would suggest this
to anyone that hasn't done so already.

Lee S.
50 F-1 flathead 8
66 Galaxy 500 2dr fastback 390 4bbl

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 21:47:30 -0800
From: "Hunter L. Wimmer">
Subject: FTE Pre61 - transmission noise

my '53 3-speed tranny growls in first gear at speeds above 10 mph (yes, i do use
2nd and 3rd, but i live in a city of hills)--strange thing is that is does this
when the clutch is disengaged, as well.

if the truck is in first gear, and i'm coasting down a hill with the clutch pedel
pressed to the floor, it makes a loud spinning/whirring/growling noise (same goes
for driving above 10mph). it stops when i shift to 2nd of neutral. the noise is
more bothersome than anything else, but i've had tranny trouble with another truck,
so i'm jaded.

i had a new clutch and pressure plate installed when i first bought the truck 2
months ago. the transmission is full of 140w oil plus a touch of hyper-lube oil
supplement (i switched from 90w, which is what the clutch shop used). the tranny
was dismantled and cleaned before installation (but not rebuilt)--the original
tranny in the truck was bad when i purchased it (the truck) and the growling tranny
was provided as a back-up unit by the seller.

assuming we all make it through the new year, i'll be interested in hearing some
informed responses...thanks

shakeytown, ca (san fran.)

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 01:13:42 -0500
From: "James I. McDaniel">
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Trailer Hitch wrote:

> In a message dated 12/26/1999 8:32:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> writes:
> > It looks like the stock rear bumper will support pulling a medium-sized
> trailer,...

- ------------------

> When I think back to the ungodly loads I pulled with the welded-on hitch on the
> bumper of my '52 panel, I shudder. But nothing ever went wrong, scared myself
> with the braking effort, and undoubtedly shortened the clutch life, but the
> bumper and brackets held up nicely. Me and my ruddy brown primer '52 towed my
> white and rust '56 Karmen Ghia autocross car all over the place. Ripped the
> center out of the clutch disc coming into a toll booth on route 95 in CT, just
> waved and drove right through (wouldn't disengage)... <<<<< snip >>>>>

Sounds like a hole drilled in the top center of the bumper with a 2" ball (braced
from under the bumper flange by a four-foot-long-or-so angle iron) should be
strong enough for me. I'm putting in a new 8BA engine and installing a new 11"
clutch and pressure plate and new brakes all the way around. Should get me both
started and stopped, at least for awhile.

Thanks for the reply. Any thoughts from others?

Jim McDaniel

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 01:39:44 EST
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Thanks Lee

Thanks for the information. Since I took those pictures, I've installed
two sperate temperature gauges. What I did was buy a set of triple gauges
temp/oil/amp. And then I purchased a single temp gague.I was shocked at how
close the two sides ran together the largest difference I've seen has been
five degrees.

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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #384

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