Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #247
Precedence: bulk

pre61-list-digest Tuesday, August 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 247

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Winterizing
FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Steering wheel
FTE Pre61 - styleside bed & idiot lights
FTE Pre61 - Brake Systems
Re: FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Steering wheel
FTE Pre61 - fromt drums
FTE Pre61 - Highway speed
FTE Pre61 - Re: ignition timing



Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 07:58:30 -0400
From: Ray or Fran Bell
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Winterizing

Some tips I thought were pretty good from a RV magazine.

1. Steam clean suspension and chassis.
2. Paint/repaint/undercoat all metal that is subject to rust.
3. Support tires on some sort or barrier between tire and ground. Wood or plastic works well. Inflate tires to maximum pressure.
4. Service engine: proper antifreeze, new engine oil and filter, top off gas tank adding fuel stabilizer. Squirt oil into each cylinder
5. Place rodent poison in a small container atop the engine and near under-dash wiring.
6. Service all locks with spray lubricant.

Wet-Floor F-1

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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:54:47 EDT
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Steering wheel

I need some help. I have a 1952 F-1 with a 239 flathead. I'm in the
process of putting a Mustang II suspenion under the front end. The truck had
a steering wheel off a 1959 Chevy installed by the previous owner. When we
got the wheel off, We could see they had drilled out the splines to get it on
the old column. Now I need a new wheel. I would like to find a Ford wheel to
go back on it. I would also like to find something that would fit in with a
Fifty's style interior. I made a trip today to "Frog Follies" and found
nothing. I need some ideas on were to look.

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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 08:27:15 PDT
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - styleside bed & idiot lights

Terry, To hook up idiot lights connect one side of each light to a circuit
that is switched from ignition switch. Other side of oil light to oil
pressure switch in block. If you're using gauges you'll have to install a T
fitting for both gauge sender & idiot light switch. Not sure what kind of
charging system you have, I'm assuming Ford alt being you've got a 460.
Connect Gen light wire to the "I" terminal of voltage reg, "A" terminal of
reg to battery, "S" terminal of reg to alt stator terminal, "F" terminal on
reg to alt field terminal. If you've got a Delco alt connect Gen light to
terminl #1 on back of alt. If you have a generator connect Gen light to
"ARM" terminal of voltage reg. Hope this helps.

John Harrison

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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 16:04:30 -0600
From: "A. D. Dodge"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Brake Systems

Mike - do you have stock drum brakes with your new dual reservoir master

cylinder? Does your truck stop well enough and easily enough that a
power booster isn't needed? I'd really like to convert to a dual master
cylinder on my '55 100 but wasn't sure if I should consider a booster in
addition to the new master to get it to stop
quickly when necessary without having to stand on the pedal with both
feet. Thanks for your help!


> Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:17:11 -0500
> From: Mike Morton
> Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - brake systems
> I went with manual brakes instead odf power. I got my bracket from
> Engineered Components. I used a 67-76 Corvette non power 4 wheel disc
> master cylinder. It has a 1" bore. They show a 1" bore disc/drum
> cylinder from a 67-72 Mustang also. The catalog I have is a couple
years old
> and they were $45 for the Mustang and $50 for the Corvette. I found
> Corvette locally for about $35. This was new, not rebuilt. ECI sells a

> bracket to use the original brake pedal and has the bracket, pushrod,
> end, hardware and new boot. ECI's phone number is (860) 872-7046

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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 19:43:02 EDT
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 1952 F-1 Steering wheel

I'm currently doing the exact modification. Mustang II clip but keeping the
cab stock look. Don't have a wheel that I can help you with, but a
suggestion on an assembly method.

I took the time to form a "patch piece that nicely fits about 3/4" over the
stock floor opening. Using heavier gauge sheet metal and some decorative
placement of rivets, (tightly spaced) it even looks good from the engine
compartment. Then placed a 1" hole where the stock 3/4" steering shaft can
pass through, making sure that the angle for your u-joints aren't over

You now have a chance to customize the wheel to your personal taste. Once
you have a stock wheel and column (you won't need the gearbox) measure and
mark the distance from the wheel to the point where you'd like the colum to
pass through the floor. If you disassemble a stock column, you can place it
in your cab at this point to get an idea of how it'll fit. Hint: Always
start "high" with the placement of the wheel, you can always cut it down.

Once you have that measurement, add 2". Assuming your stock column is
disassembled, cut only the 3/4" inner shaft at this point. Cut the outer
casing at the original marking (2" less).

Then mount a shaft locking, flat pillow bearing on the"patch panel",
concentric to the 3/4" hole. This can be modified to accommodate for
capturing the outer casing, while locking the stock 3/4 shaft to a secure

Assuming you have the 3/4' spline or DD joints to your linkage, simply then
grind or weld the appropriate attachment to the stock inner shaft that's
protruding into the engine bay. Be sure not to interfere with the exaust

It's a matter of taste, but this method workes for me, and if done with some
thought, doesn't look bad.

eric '52 with about 2 months to go....
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 21:45:57 -0400
From: "John Merrill"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - fromt drums

We have a '56 F500 rackbody with everything up and running but the front
drums are junk. One more turning and nothing will be left. Does anyone
have a source for 2.25' X 13" drums. I think '56 was the only year for this
size drum. All the other brake parts are still available.
Many Thanks,
John Merrill

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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:18:23 EDT
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed

I took my 52 F-2 out on a highway this weekend after primarily driving on the
city streets here in Indianapolis. My Flathead V8 runs really well but
seemed most comfortable running around 45. I pushed it up to 50 mph but the
I felt better letting off the gas to around 45. I didn't want to stress
anything as I do when I am out jogging myself born 5 years before my F-2. I
have new non-radials on the truck I bought from Cokers with the wide
whitewalls. When I switched from radials to the bias plys it really has
improved the ease of steering. Some explained to me that the radial hugs
the road more and therefore it is harder to turn the wheels. However when I
got to going around 50 I didn't feel that comfortable as maybe I didn't have
that good of contact with the road with the bias ply tires. Back in the 50
did the trucks cruse at highway speed around 45-50 mph? I am sure the roads
were not as good and probably the speed limits were lower than they are
today. Will faster highway driving harm the engine? I enjoy turning
people's heads when they see the truck coming down the road. Some don't
notice but most, especially those who had contact with the old trucks look
with admiration. Y'all know what I mean, right? Mike in Indy.
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:44:26 EDT
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: ignition timing

to whom it may concern, my 56 f-100 has a stock 302 with 2 barrel carb,
ignition. does someone out there know what the correct timing should be set
at to
get the most preformance out of it? the only thing eles i know was it came
out of a
71 mustang.also i hear you guys speak alot about 9 inch rearends.can someone
explain how to determine what to look for to see if i also have one? i hope
that wasn't
a dumb question?! and to all you great people who've already answered many of
my other questions i thank you all!! DAN
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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #247

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