fordtrucks-digest Friday, March 6 1998 Volume 02 : Number 060

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Frenched antennas []
Oil for flathead [Pat Hester ]
Re: Oil for flathead [Fordf3 ]
Re: ADMIN: Opinions/feedback on web site [Cherise ]
Descaling funky gas tanks [JPerel ]
Re: Descaling funky gas tanks [FoMoCoNUT2 ]
Re: Oil for flathead [JRFiero ]
Trim posts [Ray Cardogno ]
IFS swaps for early pickups [ (Richard Pietsch)]



Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 12:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Frenched antennas

I'm looking for details on how to or a magazine or book article on
frenching radio antennas into truck cabs. Actually anywhere is ok,
the procedure is what I'm looking for. Like installing
deep to make it, cutting the tube etc.. I'd like to add this to my
cab and now's the time to do it.

Thanks in advance



Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 17:10:22 -0500
From: Pat Hester
Subject: Oil for flathead

I realize that oil has been discussed in the past however if someone =
could help me it would be appreciated. What type of oil should I be =
using in my 47 flathead? Please excuse the stupid question but this is =
my 1st truck. Also can I run radial tires on it or do I need to use =
bias ply (It is all original). Thanks very much.
Pat Hester


Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 17:21:02 EST
From: Fordf3
Subject: Re: Oil for flathead

I use 20-50 in my 48


Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 18:50:03 -0800
From: Cherise
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Opinions/feedback on web site

Ken Payne wrote:
> To those interested:
> I got every opinion up to 9:30 EST on it except for roughly
> 3 "no" opinions that I forwared to all the lists last night.
> Thanks for all the feedback on this advertising issue, I
> appreciate everyone's honesty.
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+

How do I get off the mailing list??? I followed your instructions and
my e-mail just got returned. My e-mail address is



Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 21:57:34 EST
From: JPerel
Subject: Descaling funky gas tanks

Wesley has the right idea with using loose nuts and bolts, I've done that with
motorcycle fuel tanks and it works pretty well, (you should also remove the
sending unit and use something like a cork to plug that opening) also, after
that shaking treatment, put maybe a gallon of gasoline in the tank and
carefully shake that around (NO nuts and bolts!) and let that gas break loose
whatever scale is going to dissolve into the gas, maybe even drain it out,
strain it and do it more than once, that should help eliminate the "silt-up
effect" on the first filter or two...

Also, have you ever tried double filters? One right at the tank before the
fuel pump, and a second at the carb? That will help protect the carb, and
usually won't need changing as often as your primary muck-catcher
will...besides, throwaway filters are cheap...:-)

Jay In Washington
75 E-100 window van

> What's the best solution for a gas tank that's been sitting up for
>10-13 years? I've replaced two fuel filters already. Should I keep messing
>with filters, or be better off replacing?
> Thanks,
> Wesley

I've always put a couple of large hand-fulls of nuts, bolts and
washers into the tank. Fill the tank up with a couple of gal1ons
water (don't want nuts and bolts causing sparks). Shake tank like
crazy until it seems that your arms will fall off. Drain. Air it
out and pour in water displacement fluid.

Naturally, you do all this with the tank off the truck and the
gas poured out. You may still need one filter replacement after
this procedure.



Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:29:31 EST
From: FoMoCoNUT2
Subject: Re: Descaling funky gas tanks

In a message dated 98-03-05 21:58:23 EST, you write:

washers into the tank. Fill the tank up with a couple of gal1ons
water (don't want nuts and bolts causing sparks). >>

just a note here, as an extra added measure, since even with water in the
tank there could still be enough vapor for ignition to occur, try using some
non-metalic fastners, any old brass pieces you may have collected over time.

John Miller


Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:38:28 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: Oil for flathead

In a message dated 98-03-05 17:11:57 EST, you write:


Ideally you should be using a modern high quality multi-viscosity detergent
HOWEVER - If your engine has always had non-detergent oil, then its probably
full of sludge, which the introduction of detergent oil can set free, clogging
various things. The oil filter is of little use in cleaning this out, 'cause
the filter is a bypass type, whatever oil feels like going through it does.
That said, its unlikely someone has been able to maintain a non-detergent
diet if the truck has been run regularly. If you remove the oil filter, suck
out the oil from the canister, the condition of the bottom of the canister
will be an indicator. If it has lots of hardened sludge, you may have the
overall engine sludge problem. In which case, there have been several
suggestions over time, such as - adding a quart of transmission fluid, idle or
drive around the neighborhood at normal temp for a while, drain, refill,
change again after 100 or so miles. Other cleaners can be Marvel Mystery Oil,
kerosene ... there may be commercial products.
If its clean and has good oil pressure, try 10W-30. I saw another post
recommending 20W-50, which is what I use. But, I have next to no oil
pressure. Using thicker oil when you don't need it just wastes energy pumping
it around.
If you have the access plate on the bottom of the pan you might take it off
to see how much sludge is in the pan as an indicator of the sludge issue.

I'd run radials unless you're going for original show points.


Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 00:16:36 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Trim posts

>Subject: ADMIN: Trim posts



Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 02:27:43 -0800
From: (Richard Pietsch)
Subject: IFS swaps for early pickups

I have used the Volare IFS K-member in my 56 F100 and have been very
pleased with the results. Unlike what I read here earlier, the frame
does not have to be cut off to do the job. You mearly trim up into the
bottom of it. You must box the frame back in and add fish plates on the
outside surface, but the main frame remains in tact so that all body
mounts and radiator core supports remain. I have done this job two times
to The Rat and I love the results. Yes, The Rat is its name. I don't
remember just how it got started but it seems to have stuck. Oh well, I
love my Rat anyway.

The Oldtrukmen
56 F100


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