Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 03:50:17 -0700 (MST)
From: (fordtrucks-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #95

fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, December 31 1997 Volume 01 : Number 095

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
In this issue:

1950 Headlights [Andy Montebello ]
Re: 1950 Headlights []
Second Report on '54 F-100 4x4 ["Earl T. Ingram, IV"
Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #94 [Michael Richardson ]
remove from list [LUVELIJAH ]
Re: 6 to 12 volt conversions [Ray Cardogno ]
[none] [jc& terry ]
ADMIN: Request for articles [Ken Payne ]



Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 06:19:36 -0600
From: Andy Montebello
Subject: 1950 Headlights

I'm rebuilding a 1950 and have converted it to 12 volts.

I am thinking of halogen headlights because they are supposed to give
more light. They seem very expensive in the 7" round size, smaller
square ones are much cheaper.

Anyone have any comments on halogen headlights and where they can be
bought at a reasonable price?


Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 10:17:04 -0500
Subject: Re: 1950 Headlights

In , on 12/30/97
at 06:19 AM, Andy Montebello said:

>I'm rebuilding a 1950 and have converted it to 12 volts.

>I am thinking of halogen headlights because they are supposed to give
>more light. They seem very expensive in the 7" round size, smaller
>square ones are much cheaper.

>Anyone have any comments on halogen headlights and where they can be
>bought at a reasonable price?

You can get those headlights at Wal-Mart for about $7, and halogen
headlights are definitely brighter than incandescent ones. They last
longer too.

Even youths grow tired and weary, and young men stumble and fall; but
those who hope in the Lord will renew their strength. They will soar on
wings like eagles; they will run and not grow weary, they will walk and
not be faint. Isaiah 40:30-31 --
- -----------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:17:53 -0500
From: "Earl T. Ingram, IV"
Subject: Second Report on '54 F-100 4x4

First off, let me thank EVERYONE here for their invaluable advice, help,
encouragement, and/or other info that I have received over the last few

OK, off to the meat of this e-mail. I went Sunday (12/28) and took a second
*CLOSE* look at this '54 F-100. I decided not to purchase it. There
were too many inconsistencies with the truck for me to buy it. I will
outline them here.

The VIN Tag had this info:

VIN - *F10R3C15867*
MGVW - 4800
Cert HP - 96
At - 3400
Trans - 3STD
Color - R
Prod Code - 23-G-RP-470*

1. This truck is titled as a '54, but by all indications, it's a
'53. The grille valence had holes for a '53 grille, not a '54. It also
has the Flathead, which did not look "stuck" in.
2. The 4x4 conversion was a "backyard" job, with what looks to be
old military stuff. The driveshaft angles would cause the truck to
shake your teeth out at highway speeds. The conversion made some of my
shade-tree work look professional. :-)
3. Many pieces were jjust missing, such as the hood latch,
windshield wipers, tailgate, taillights, bumpers, and running boards. A
few of the badges were in a box, but only a few. The grille had been
replaced with a '70s type. (UGH!!)
4. The body looked fairly rust-free, however, there was signs of
some serious rust undernearh the panels. The only rusted-out areas were
near the cowl where the left front fender attaches, and the left front
corner of the floorpan.
5. The windshield had a serious rock scar that would eventually
necessitate the replacement of the glass.
6. The interior was carpeted. With sculpted house carpet!!! No
headliner was present, and the steering wheel was in need of
replacement. However, the gauge package was intact (assuming it
7. The engine was run, for my benefit, but was not brought up to
temp. The block may or may not be cracked.
8. The exhaust system was fabricated with under-house plumbing
9. I was told that the brakes need to be gone through.

These are just the major things I found. All-in-all it is an excellent
candidate for a frame-up restoration. I, however, am not up to the
challenge at this time. It would make a nice piece with a lot of TLC.
The asking price is a steep $3000, especially since it would easily take
another $1000 to just get it to pass inspection.

If you would like a picture of the truck, just e-mail me and I'll send the
scan of the ad in the Truck Trader. The truck is located in Crewe, VA,
about 50 miles west of Richmond. If you need any other info, just e-mail me
at the address below.

BTW, I have a line on a fully restored '49 F1 now.... We shall see :-)



Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:00:33 -0600
From: Michael Richardson
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #94

please remove my name from your mailing list


Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:55:35 EST
Subject: remove from list

remove from list please


Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 20:12:22 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Re: 6 to 12 volt conversions

I have done a couple of 6 to 12 volt conversions and would like to throw
out a few suggestions.

I have added "one-wire" GM altinators thereby totally eliminating
generators, regulators and the associated hedaches, you simply run 1 wire
to the battery. Done. You can get these for about $65 wherever altinators
are rebuilt. A mod to the original generator mounting bracket is all it
takes to install.

Be carful not to burn up your truck by way of the 6-volt positive ground
instrument panel light dimmer coil built into the lightswitch. It turns
into a red-hot heating coil when 12-volt negative ground is fed into your
truck. I found this out by accident. you must isolate it from the ground.

Your original amp gauge will read properly by reversing the direction of
the wire going through the inductance loop on the back of the gauge.

Happy New Year,


Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 19:56:20 -0800
From: jc& terry
Subject: [none]

>I am trying to finish the conversion of my 47 1 1/2 ton to 12 volt and
am running into some problems. I have installed an alternator, selinoid
and coil ( with resister in line). I also added a new wiring harness.
The engine runs great, the problem is in the starting.

i am assuming you have a 12 volt starter also. if so, the problem is in yur
ignition switch. the circuit should be:wire from ignition to solenoid,
solenoid to starter, and starter to ignition. turn the (new) ignition switch
with the start/on positions to start (puts pwer to the solenoid) and then to
run (power to coil but not to starter)

>Right now the engine starts as soon as I turn the ignition switch on,
even though the starter button is not depressed. I even took the
starter button completely out of the circuit and engine still starts
with the ingnition switch only. The other problem is that the starter
does not disengage.

you have the swich wired with no seperate position for just run without
starting. what you basically have is two different systems spliced together

>I have checked the wiring at the selinoid and all is correct, but I
believe there may be something wrong with it. I have replaced the 12
volt selinoid twice but still have not been able to get things to work
properly. I want to see if anyone else has run across similiar

get a chilton or motors book from the library or buy one and look at the
wiring diagram in it. wiring can be very aggravating for many
people(including me) but i have found that with a diagram i can redo almost
any wiring. just take your time and make sure all your parts are 12 volt.
electricity has to make a complete circuit to work. i know this may sound
very simplistic, but i have found that if some guys in detroit can build
this thing, so can i.
you'll figure it out. good luck

T-bird Terry


Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:09:34 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Request for articles

If you have a talent, have done an upgrade, engine swap,
performance enhancement, repair, added an alarm system,
etc.... whatever it is you can share your experience
with others via the web site.

I recently put an article on the web site describing
upgrading 67-72 Ford trucks to front disc brakes. Another
list member has submitted an article on Ford C6/NP205
transmission removal and re-installation which will soon
appear on the web site.

You'll get full credit for an article, I won't edit it and
you keep the copyright (there will be a copyright notice on
it). I can't offer financial gain because, frankly, the web
site ain't making money. We come out a little above the
break even point. I will, however, send you one of our window

I'm searching for experience with any Ford truck/van model,
any year and virtually any area (an article on changing
tires is probably not a good idea!). If you're interested,
let me know ( browse the conversion
guide on the web site to get a basic idea of the format.
The C6/NP205 guide has a similar format.




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