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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Sat, 27 May 2000 10:34:43 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 10:34:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server>
To: pre61-list digest users>
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #87
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pre61-list Digest Fri, 26 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 087

In This Issue:
Prep Work
'48, '49 F-4
Spark Problem
ADMIN: Quoting limits now enforced by Listar
Re: Rear-end identity
Radiator Question
Re: '48, '49 F-4
Re: Window Goop
brass spring bushings


From: rturnerSPP.ORG
Subject: Prep Work
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:45:40 -0500

I am getting ready to begin work on the cab of my truck. I have heard
about sand blast, powder blast, and dipping the cab to remove rust.
What are the pro's and con's of each? What would you do?

50 F1 239


From: "Jim Shedlauskas">
Subject: '48, '49 F-4
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:57:01 -0400

I picked a bargain this week, it's the remains of a '48 F-4, almost
everything but the cab. It should help be out quite a bit with my '49 F-4
project which has a fairly nice cab, but everything else has been beat to
death. But... I'm a little confused. I cant seem to find a shop manual for
the '48. The manual I have starts at '49. Everything looks to be about the
same, am I missing something here? The '48 has great tires and only one
wheel rusted out and came with a rusted flathead V-8, which I'd like to use
instead of the 6 cylinder I have now. The '48 has a power brake booster on
it, but it looks pretty rough, can these be rebuilt? The previous owner
took the cab off this truck and put it on a '74 Ford pickup frame, it's a
work in progress, but looked pretty good so far. He also had a '48 F-4 that
he'd put on a blazer frame with all Chevy running gear and boy did it look

Jim in PA


From: "Randy Selby">
Subject: Spark Problem
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:20:18 -0500

Tried to start my 239 for the first time yesterday and have a problem with the ignition. I have intermittant spark. When checked at the neg. side of coil, test lamp flashes a few times , then quits, then flashes a few times again. Can this be a ground problem in the distributor? Any ideas would be helpful, thanks.

Randy S.


Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 17:56:20 -0400
From: Ken Payne>
Subject: ADMIN: Quoting limits now enforced by Listar

Eight hours after sending a request to the list asking users not
quote entire digests and not to quote excessively, someone quotes
the entire digest.

From this point forward, the pre61 list will have quoting limits
enforced by the list server. Quotes will be limited to 15 lines
and/or 90% of the original posts.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 18:15:10 -0400
From: Fred Hooper>
Subject: Re: Rear-end identity

Fellow Pre-61'ers

My father-in-law has a trailer in his yard that is an early ford bed... I was
in the market for a nine-inch rear end and thought this might be a candidate.
i pulled a rusty metal tag off of the center section and it has (what I
believe to be) these numbers on it. 70 6EC 302. To any of you that have the
Ford books, does this make sense... and if so what does it mean? thanks in
advance for your help.



From: "Roger Hughes">
Subject: Radiator Question
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 17:30:57 -0500

Roy, I bought a radiator from U.S. Radiator for my 55 F100 w/239 Y-block and
it fit just like the original plus has connections for cooling an automatic
trans. It looks just like the original too. I can recommend them from my
experience. There was a delay when I ordered mine so check with them on a
delivery date.

55 F100


Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 01:07:14 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno>
Subject: Re: '48, '49 F-4

My 48 power brake cylinder was rebuilt through my local NAPA store!! They
sent it off to TX and it came back good as new for around $200

The '48 has a power brake booster on
>it, but it looks pretty rough, can these be rebuilt? (Hi Ken!)

Ray C


From: "Carver">
Subject: Re: Window Goop
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 23:23:38 -0700

Long term testing (from someone on another vehicle list I'm on)
reveals that plain old roofing tar lasts longer, doesn't get
hard, and will keep water out. If I don't go with a full restore
on my truck, I'm gonna scrape out the hard, cracked, leaky silicone
and put in roofing tar to seal the leaks (the frame isn't quite
the shape it's supposed to be!).

Use #108 Henry Asphalt roof coating and lap cement.
Non-fibered, Brush grade, Solvent based.
Apply using a condiment squeeze bottle with the removable tip cover.
Not the screw open/closed kind!

Paint the frame are before installing the window rubber and glass
to seal the surface to prevent water puddling rust.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab 292
I've got two water leaks at the lower corners of my '50 windshield. I'm
thinking about seeing if the over-the-counter tube of goop will do any
good. Has anybody used this stuff with any luck? Any recommendations?


Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 08:34:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dennis Moody>
Subject: brass spring bushings

I need to remove the brass bushings which are pressed into the frame
for the front spring shackles. Anyone got any good methods?


1951 F-1


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End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #87
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