perf-list-digest Tuesday, December 29 1998 Volume 01 : Number 186

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Perf - FE cyl. heads...
FTE Perf - Re: Underdrive Pulleys
FTE Perf - RE: Ford Ranger 5.0 buildup ideas Danger Opinion follows!
Re: FTE Perf - Places to look for performace ?
Re: FTE Perf - Places to look for performace ?
FTE Perf - Re: cylinder heads
FTE Perf - F150 4x4 1999



Date: Mon, 28 Dec 98 05:59:37 PST
From: "Doug Ridder"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - FE cyl. heads...

As far as the alum's go I don't have any experience.

ANd there is nothing "common" any more about high pro FE heads. however =
you can still find the 428 cobra jet heads and sometimes the 427 medium =
risers which make an excellent starting point for a strong FE.

- ----------
> Has anyone tried out Edelbrocks alum.heads for the FE big block ? =
> somebody recommend a good ( i.e. hi-perf) commonly available head for =
> same engine? I'm currently building a 428 for my 70 F250. thank you =

> steve
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:55:07 EST
Subject: FTE Perf - Re: Underdrive Pulleys

I use them on my 94 Flareside 5.0L. The only thing I had to do was to go back
and put the stock alternator pulley back on because of my stereo system. They
do free up some power though and are worth the little that they cost.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:59:47 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: Ford Ranger 5.0 buildup ideas Danger Opinion follows!

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:47:47 PST
From: "Bryan Snyder"
Subject: FTE Perf - Ford Ranger 5.0 buildup ideas

My budget is about 4-4.5k,
I have an 8.8 inch rear discs all around
James Duff trac bars
A dana 35 from a 94 Explorer, standard T-case.
driveshafts from Denny's driveshaft service
The AOD with have a solid input shaft installed, a Level 10
valve body and rebuild kit and the converter will come from Precision

Kenne Bell's SC is currently around $2700 for the 6lb kit
and yes it probably would be the most expensive option followed by the
turbos but I'm afraid only a TC or SC will give me the torque down low I
want with a 5.0 (400-450 at the wheels) Ive seen combos similar that
gave the results I want but am unsure of the path I want to pursue.


Ok, First off the following is my opinion based on my experience.
So for what its worth...

The 8.8 & D35IFS IMHO&E will break at a 400-450 Lb/Ft the rear wheel input
level. But I know a few folks that are trying it, and breaking em at a bunch
lower power levels; so it's your money. Recommend that you get a 9" and
adapt the Disks to it; and install the D44= from the F150.

You are not going to get 450 Lb/Ft at the rear wheel out of a naturally
aspirated 5.0L/302CI. 450Lb/Ft at the rear wheel is about 515 Lb/Ft at the
crankshaft this is big block territory. Some sort of puffer is going to be
required if the block itself will stay intact. Yes, I have read all of the
build ups with blown 5.0L's and I don't believe them! But that is my problem
so I'll continue...
Personally I have no direct experience with the Whipple Charger (KB) I do
have with KB from building Buicks and so tend to trust the quality of their
parts. Turbos are THE way to go as you will build the same power plus the
power lost to the Blower drive!

Regardless of how you pressurize this engine the bottom end is going to have
to be stout if you expect it to live long...
The Crankshaft must be a Forged unit and a Fluidamper balancer is required.
The Connecting Rods have to be aftermarket.
Pistons must be forged and have a compression ratio of 8.5:1 or so.
Throw away every nut and bolt that the factory installed and replace them
ALL with ARP.
You need more cubic inches so your into a stroker application. Build it as
big as you can. You need a strong bottom end of the block. Some sort of 4
Bolt main or CrMo main girdle would be a real good idea. The block must be
fully race prepped: Squared, Deburred, Oil Passages smoothed and radiused,
every threaded hole chased, and just basically Blueprinted to with in an
inch of its life.
You'll need a windage tray and deep pan, a High volume oil pump. Don't
forget a BIG cooler!
You need a top notch machine shop. Everything must be magged at least once,
even the new parts.
Cylinder heads will have to be Aluminum but forget anything that the factory
ever offered. This is due to the cooling capabilities of the factory parts;
they suck! Plus you need what would be usually be a race head to let the
blower work.
You don't need any trick port work just a basic clean up and match.
The Intake valves don't need to be huge but the Exhaust valves do. You need
a Teflon seal on the Intake but a stock type or no seal on the exhaust.
The intake will depend on the Puffer as will the Camshaft. Both will be
You will be tossing the factory computer to get the most power out of this
engine, and the injectors will be operating at the extreme of their design
spec so plan on them too. There is only one ECU on the market right now
that is worth anything and it is the FP Performance unit. Nothing else comes
close no matter what the Raggz say!
The Headers must be 1.75" Dia. primaries full length with 2.5/3.0" Dia.
Collectors. Don't even think about "Shorty Headers"! and 1.75 is the
smallest that you should consider. The dual pipes must be 3.0" minimum and
3.5" would be a better choice. Flowmasters or Borla are the boxes of choice.
A HD Flexplate will be required and tell the Torque Converter manufacturer
that this is a Blower Application

$2700? >>> KB Puffer +2000CFM T/body
$2300 >>> FP Performance ECU
$800 >>> Injectors
$750 >>> Crankshaft
$400 >>> Damper
$650 >>> Rods
$550 >>> Pistons
$800 >>> Block
$1500 >>> Heads
$400 >>> Oil Pan, Tray
$1000 >>> Headers
$250 >>> Flex Plate
$500 >>> Basic Lap Top (for programming ECU)
$2000 >>> Dyno Time (Engine Break in & Initial set up of ECU)
$14600 >>> TOTAL

I think that I exceeded your budget!
You have an engine that "really almost" makes the power that you want
reliably (mostly) and will live (for a while), is driveable, and will burn
(all)most pump gas; barely!
I predict that the power output of such an engine would be aprox.:
430 Lb/ft4500-5000RPM & 450HP6000-6250RPM
If we drop the 450 Lb/Ft the rear wheel output down to something more
reasonable like 375 the flywheel we can reduce the cost by just a touch to
say $12000.
OR better yet if we add say another $4000 and boot the blower sliding in
twin Turbo's and a intercooler we are finally getting in to the power you
are looking for:
500+Lb/Ft4000-4500RPM & 1000HP7000-7500RPM or so! It wont live long but
who cares!

Your budget for the engine is quite reasonable but your power requirements
are not.
Take whatever the latest Ford rag lists for its power output and reduce it
by 1/3 to 1/2 and then you have a reasonable number. 450Lb/Ft at the
"Crankshaft" is a good goal but in a 5.0 it is not going to happen much
under 4000RPM with or with out a blower. This is not Low end torque by my
standards. If you want that kind of torque down low you need cubic inches;
like start with a 460 and go up from there, or get a diesel. The next
problem is that you are going to simply grenade the drivetrain you list even
with a set of 32's!
I won't ask what you think that you are going to do with that kind of power
in a Ranger. With out some really trick suspension you'll never hook it up
and if you ever did... BANG! But hey too much is almost enough for me too
when it comes to toyz!)
May I suggest that you do a much more mild build!
You should be able to easily get a 310Lb/Ft. ( Crank) engine out of a hot
5.0L EFI engine with out a blower for $2500. Have enough $$$ left over to
gear the thing to take full advantage of it! Fill the tank several times!
For those gotta have it blasts add a 150HP Nitrous kit and rock-n-roll! and
still get a burger & a pint!)

There you have my opinion.
It is not what you wanted to hear for that I make no apologies. All of the
prices are generic just based on my experience. The Power figures are my
best guess backed up with real dyno experience and two "Cyber Dynos".
Remember that is takes 1.5 MHP to equal 1 BHP (often more)when you read
about engines in the Ragz.


"Believe nothing that you read in a magazine"

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 20:47:43 EST
From: GoodwhskyAOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Places to look for performace ?

In a message dated 12/26/98 5:42:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

> This isn't really truck related but it is Ford and performance related. I
> have a 99 Contour with the 2.5 V6. The SVT model used the same motor but
> make 30 more HP. Does anyone think this is mostly in the computer? If not
> completely in the computer, would the SVT computer add anything? Hypertech
> doesn't have anything on their site as of yet. They seem to stop with the
> 97 model year for all cars and trucks.
> Laters
> --
> Don Grossman

I hope I am not chiming in late on this. First of all come over and join the
CEG (Contour Enthusiasts Group), don't forget to join the
Contour-L mailing list while you are there. We have a lot of good tech and
performance info on that site. I am a member (besides my Lightning and
Mustang I own a 97 Contour SE [fully loaded) 5-speed w/2.5l V6).
As for the differences between the SVT and regular Contour V6's there are MANY
differences. things I know of off hand:
brakes (rotors and calipers)
ground effects
air filter
air box
throttle body
extrude honed intake (upper)
10:1 compression
different cams
cat-back exhaust
sway bars

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:24:20 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Places to look for performace ?

GoodwhskyAOL.COM wrote:

> I hope I am not chiming in late on this. First of all come over and join the
> CEG (Contour Enthusiasts Group), don't forget to join the
> Contour-L mailing list while you are there. We have a lot of good tech and
> performance info on that site. I am a member (besides my Lightning and
> Mustang I own a 97 Contour SE [fully loaded) 5-speed w/2.5l V6).
> As for the differences between the SVT and regular Contour V6's there are MANY
> differences.


> Chuck

Thanks, I've already been to the site and joined the list ;) I didn't think
there would be that many people behind this car. I just stopped in at the local
dealer to see what they had and the Contour seemed to have the most bang for the
buck and walked ( Well drove) out with one that day.

Thanks for everybodies help

- --
Don Grossman
ICQ# 19575234

99 Contour SE Sport
63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 22:11:23 EST
Subject: FTE Perf - Re: cylinder heads

my recommendation for a low cost performance head would be any fe head with
the 1.66 exhaust valve. there are many available, for truck use you can use
any of them
mustangs and fairlanes can only use cj's easily because of exhaust manifold
mounting. you can go back to 1963 and use late 406 heads, and 63 -65 427 low
riser heads, also you can use 68-70 cj heads ( these might be a little higher
of people using these for restorations)
don't know anything about edelbrock aluminum heads

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 23:40:51 -0500
From: Rick Heis
Subject: FTE Perf - F150 4x4 1999


I have an idea(s) BUT need a few answers, suggestions and a lot of wisdom.=
Its in several parts so please help me with the portion(s) you can. This=
venture is new to me so ALL suggestions are relevant and welcome=85

I'm a volunteer in the search and rescue business (CAP and NASAR) and=
portable emergency communications (amateur radio, AFMARS, SHARES, etc.)=
business. My other interest (my job's) are aviation related, air traffic=
controller, weather observer, and commercial, multiengine pilot. I own a=
1992 Ford F150, 5.8, 2WD.

I am seriously considering purchasing a 1999 F150 supercab, 5.4, auto, 4x4.=
I would consider other manufactures models (Jeep, for one) but I've owned=
Ford trucks for many years. I plan on using the truck for my daily=
transportation and some moderate (nothing like the rock climbers I see in=
4x4 magazines) West Virginia 4x4 fun, BUT during SAR emergencies, when I=
need 4x4 performance, I need 4x4 performance.=20

I plan on getting the XLT or Lariat package, the towing package, the off=
road package, and the XLT sport group. I also plan on upgrading certain=
components, like shocks, exhaust system, computer chip, etc.

1. My concern(s) are some of the products in each group are duplicates, but=
I don't see any indication of reduction in prices because of duplication. I=
also don't see any 'brand' names associated with products. Is the=
aftermarket products better value or quality than the 'Ford' products? How=
can I find out information about Ford components, like who makes them,=
basic spec's, comparisons to aftermarket, etc.?

2. What exactly did Ford do to the 5.4 engine to give it more horsepower=
from 1998? What size in cubic inches is 5.4?

3. I really like the Ford ranger 'splash' color of canary yellow or=
'baywatch yellow'. Does Ford plan on coming out with this color in the near=
future for the F150? If not, can you special order from Ford this color? I=
know they carry the paint because the ranger 'splash' is this color.

4. I also don't like the leather seats on the Lariat package, can I replace=
them with the XLT seats at no cost?

5. Is Ford going to have disc brakes on all four wheels for the F150 soon?

6. The Ford Lightning is coming out soon, how many components, performance=
and cosmetic, will fit the regular F150? Will they be available at regular=
Ford garages? I really like the white faced gauges.

7. What would I have to do to increase horsepower to about 325-350. I plan=
on headers and cat back system, a K&N air filter, new computer chip. What=

8. I would like to add a 3 or 4 inch lift kit so I can use larger tires.=
(33or35x12.50x15or16) How much product duplication/upgrade is there to=
the above information? Will I need to upgrade/change other components=
because of the lift? I just don't want to buy the same pair of shocks=
three times. I would rather plan my upgraded vehicle.

9. Is there any information as to what Ford is planning for the F150 for the=
year 2000?

10. What about Ford manufacture warranties with all these upgrades? Which=
Ford assembly plant makes the F150 and do they allow tours?

Well enough, this will get me started. I want to say thanks for all the=
information that I know will follow.

Rick Heis


Morgantown, WV

Rick Heis

(second alphanumeric is the number 'one', NOT the
letter 'L')

P.O. Box 40, C-2 Road

Arthurdale, WV 26520-0040

(304) 864 6356
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