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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 117

Today's Topics:

MPG [shoythaleys.net (Steven Hoyt) ]
Handling [bobr ]
Re: Handling [JAMES ]
Re: Handling ["Jim" ]
Re: How much Horse Power and Torque [sdelantysonoma.net ]
Re: MPG ["Eric and/or Denise"
RE: [DC Beatty
Edelbrock's answer (to PCV ?) [JIM HURD ]
Edelbrocks answer. ["Jim" ]
RE: CAB MOUNTS [Randy Collins ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:00:40 -0700
From: shoythaleys.net (Steven Hoyt)
To: fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: MPG
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I've got a '62 F100 with the original 292 and Ford-o-matic in it. It
barely had enough power to get up steep hills, so I had the engine
rebuilt and balanced about 2 years ago. This really improved the
performance and my gas mileage went from 7 mpg to 11 mpg. It seems to
be geared a little low, top speed is only about 80 and the road had
better be level. The identiplate says axle=11, HP=135, D.S.O.=1569. I
am already running 235 X 75 R15 tires, but I do still have the original
front wrap exhaust (I still don't think that one was one of Ford's
"better ideas"). Is this all the better I should be expecting? If not,
what can I inexpensively do to improve it?

Also, anybody used one of those new solid state point replacements like
the "ignitor from CBS performance"? Are they worth the $80?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:45:12 -0400
From: bobr
To: fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: Handling
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am having trouble with my truck's handling. At highway speeds it
does not want to go straight but needs constant and frequent
corrections. Also the steering seems to react too quickly. I just
replaced tie rod ends and other steering links and had an alignment but
the problem continues. All ideas welcome and appreciated.

Bob R.
1980 F-150

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:23:31 -0400
From: JAMES
To: fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: Re: Handling
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=gb2312
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Check that the parts used are correct and all
settings,caster,camber,toe-in are correct for your truck.Are both front
tires the same size,brand and model?Correct inflation?Good luck
--
Disregard from and reply to addresses To reply send to JAMES
jtorsfred.net WARNING! ALL
UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL E-MAIL WILL BE BILLED A $500.00 U.S. PROOFREADING
FEE.FAILURE TO PROVIDE VALID U.S.POSTAL ADDRESS FOR SUCH BILLING OR
FAILURE TO PAY WITHIN 5 DAYS OF RECIEPT WILL RESULT IN APPROPRIATE LEGAL
ACTIONS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 18:58:07 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Handling
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I had the same problem with my '73. It turned out to be the
steering coupler at the gearbox steering shaft. once I
changed it as my friends in the NWO would say, Sweeeeet!
I hope this helps!

----------
> From: bobr
> To: fordtruckslofcom.com
> Subject: Handling
> Date: Sunday, May 18, 1997 5:45 PM
>
> I am having trouble with my truck's handling. At highway
speeds it
> does not want to go straight but needs constant and
frequent
> corrections. Also the steering seems to react too
quickly. I just
> replaced tie rod ends and other steering links and had an
alignment but
> the problem continues. All ideas welcome and appreciated.

>
> Bob R.
> 1980 F-150
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-requestlofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpaynemindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 19:18:25 -0700
From: sdelantysonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKSlofcom.com
Subject: Re: How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed Take?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>1. How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed take?

Lots and lots and lots...(aproximately)
The T-18 was used in *BIG* Ford trucks (F600's and others) as well as the
smaller pickups. They came coupled to a wide variety of motors from 240/6 to
big cid truck V-8's.
These trannys have a uselessly low 1'st gear, and terribly wide spread
ratios. They shift awesomely slow. (One potato, two potato...) BUT, they
will take more torque and horsepower than most sane people care to generate
in a pickup if You don't stomp it too hard in 1st gear.

>
>2. How much Horse Power and Torque can a Removable Carrier Ford 9-Inch Rear
End take?

Again, I can't give You any numbers, but the Ford 9" is a *very* durable device.
People use these rear ends with very nasty motors and acheive very low 1/4
mile times with the 9". It's a good piece. Hard to break without blowers or
nitrous...

>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

I can guess where all this is leading... (-:

When I got my 1971 F100, 240cid/6 with Warner T-18 4-speed, Short box
(fender mounted spare tire), with 3.50:1 9" rearend, the 240 was shot beyond
repair.
I can tell You the FE family bolts right up to the T-18, with the correct
(stock, easy to find) bell housing.
I really love the FE390 that now pushes my little truck down the road, and
it was an *extremely* easy swap. I've got 300+ hp and 450+ ft lbs, and I'm
not the least bit worried about breaking the T-18 or 9".
I know that 289/302/351 also bolt up to the T-18(with correct bellhousing),
and I'm not positive, but I believe the 429/460 also works with T-18.
Lotsa choices for motors if You wanna do a swap...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelantysonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:55:56 -0500
From: "Eric and/or Denise"
To:
Subject: Re: MPG
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Steven,

I'm looking in my '61 service manual for the following info, but I'm
assuming that it will be the same for your '62, as well.

> I've got a '62 F100 with the original 292 and Ford-o-matic in it. It
> barely had enough power to get up steep hills, so I had the engine
> rebuilt and balanced about 2 years ago. This really improved the
> performance and my gas mileage went from 7 mpg to 11 mpg.

My '61 has a rebuilt 1959 292 (about 30K ago) with a 4 on the floor. The
last time I checked, I got consistant 13MPG. (This was for 2000 mile trip
when I picked it up, this past December). I have since that time been
going through the engine (tuneup wise) and other aspects of the truck to
make it my daily driver, and I'm hoping to be able to check my mileage this
week. I expect that I will get at least a couple of clicks better, based
on the tune (lack-of) of the engine and "parts" that I replaced with new.
Judging from your 11 MPG I guess I'm lucky that mine got 13MPG in such bad
tune!

>It seems to
> be geared a little low, top speed is only about 80 and the road had
> better be level.

Mine is geared low, too. I've got a 3.92 gear (spicer) limited slip
differential, but I do have a bunch o'torque.....I usually don't drive it
faster than 60MPH, though...Our trucks are about 36 years old.... they were
made for pulling stumps - not screaming down the modern highway at
80+mph!!! ;-O

Just for comparison, here's a couple of things mine has that you mentioned:
215X75 R15 Tires (BTW, Does anybody know what was the stock tire for this
truck? I haven't found this info in my manual.)
Stock "wrap around" exhaust...and the rest of the truck is pretty much
stock.

>The identiplate says axle=11, HP=135, D.S.O.=1569.

Axle=11 = 3.70 gears in rear end
HP = 135 = 135
DSO = 1569 - My manual does not break this number out.

Your VIN has additional info encoded in it, such as the type rear end your
truck came with, where it was assembled, when (month and year) it was made,
etc...

You may have seen a few people's posts awhile back how you can write Ford
and get all kinds of info for your truck.... well don't bother! FOMOCO
didn't break out half the information that my service manual gave me!
(They said that they don't keep records past 1967.)

>I am already running 235 X 75 R15 tires, but I do still have the original
> front wrap exhaust (I still don't think that one was one of Ford's
> "better ideas"). Is this all the better I should be expecting? If not,
> what can I inexpensively do to improve it?
> Also, anybody used one of those new solid state point replacements like
> the "ignitor from CBS performance"? Are they worth the $80?

Let me know if you find any info about these solid state replacements, and
I'll do the same.

Later,

Eric
petuniaindy.net
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Pick'em up Unibody Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: 18 May 97 23:23:11 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com'"
Subject: RE:
Message-ID:

Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and the
junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff gets
wrecked here, I guess.

Ever messed with the cab mounts??

Thanks,
DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 11:45 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: Re:


At 01:32 AM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote:
>I noticed today that one of the lower rubber bushings on my cab mount is
>missing. It's the rubber donut looking thing with the metal washer holding it
>in. Anybody know the procedure for fixing this?
>
>I am also in the market for some decent headlight doors for a 67 F-100 if
>anybody has extra.
>
>Thanks,
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>

>>>>>Several of the companies on our suppliers list (on the web site) sell
headlight doors. Be aware that they are very pricey ($100-$125 each).

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe
form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:52:05 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: Edelbrock's answer (to PCV ?)
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

7
EDELBROCK TECH edelbrockedelbrock.com Wed May 14 14:41:53 PDT 1997
To Harry Jennings hjenningshotmail.com, The Performer cam and
manifold is always the best choice for "mild" street performance, and
would give better mileage than the Performer RPM package, which is a
more radical, "street and strip" set-up. This i s forturate in your
case, as we don't make a Performer RPM package for the 351-M engine.
Always use the PCV valve provisions on a street engine. You'll make
more power from the positive removal of crankcase pressure than you
would if the system were just vented to atmosphere. It's really tough
to guess what your ultimate mileage goal might be, but I'll go out on
a limb and say 16 to 18 m.p.g. would be pretty good for this vehicle.
If you really want to squeeze every last bit of mileage from it, be
sure to use smallish-sized headers (1-1/2" would be good), use our
#1406 600 c.f.m. carb (economy calibration), and maybe look into our
Air/Fuel Ratio monitor #6593 along with a #1487 calibration kit. These
will enable you to get the air/fuel ratio perfectly tun ed for your
vehicle, which is necessary for optimum results. With perfect tuning,
you might even see the far side of 20 m.p.g. Thanks, Tom Dufur

edelbrockedelbrock.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:59:46 -0700
From: "Jim"
To: "fordtrucks"
Subject: Edelbrocks answer.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks Jim!
The only thing that I didn't realize was the small tube
headers improve fuel economy! They are the Pros, so no
argument there!
I'm sorry Harry's no longer on the list, it would have been
interesting to see if he would have changed his stand!
I had left the list for a few days, but hated being away!
I've learned something from all of this, unlike assume,
compromise makes an ass of only me! My apologies to the list
for the BS I've posted! If I am welcome back I will watch
myself, keep my post directed to honest input concerning my
experience with my Ford truck!
I would appreciate others feelings as to my returning to
the list! Before I'd cause hard feelings to members, I would
switch to the digest, and keep from posting!
I let what was happening in personal e-mail flow over to
the list. A mistake I hope not to repeat! FYI Being referred
to as smarta$$ and Dumb___ was getting me angered to the
point I to wanted to bring personal opinion to the list,
instead I made an equal mistake, to which I most humbly
apologies.

Jim Strigas
jstrigasworldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:49:02 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtruckslofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: CAB MOUNTS
Message-ID:
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DC,

I have done all the mounts on my project Ford. The mounts I have done =
include replacing all of the rubber mounts with the newer urethane type. =
All of the mounts include 4 cab mounts, the 2 on the front clip, 6 on =
the springs, and more for the sway bars. All thought the truck is still =
quite a way from being on the road, I assume the urethane bushings under =
the cab will transmit much more road noise and a stiffer feel to the =
cab. I would think that this wouldn't be desirable to most folks. =20

If the 67-72 style cab mounts are the same as the 73 to 79 types of =
mounts, they aren't much fun to replace. On these mounts in addition to =
the two piece rubber there is two metal pieces that hold them together. =
On the rear cab mounts the procedure for removal is pretty simple. You =
remove the bolt from inside the cab. Thread the bolt in a few turns in =
from the under the cab and use a punch inside the cab to drive the =
mounts apart. On the front cab mounts you can't get on top of them to =
drive them out with a hammer. I welded a bolt with the correct bolt =
pattern to a slide hammer to remove these. Since I have several of the =
old Fords I had the opportunity to try it out on 4 sets of front cab =
mounts. I was successful in removing only one of them with the slide =
hammer. The rest I had to remove with a cutoff blade in a 4" Makita. =
It isn't much fun. =20

If you intend to reuse the steel portions of the mounts you will need to =
ground down the top portion because it mushrooms a little. =20

If you have more questions or my directions aren't' clear, drop me a =
note. I am pretty sure I have a parts breakdown I could e-mail to you. =


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollinsmicron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



-----Original Message-----
From: DC Beatty [SMTP:104452.1362CompuServe.COM]
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 8:23 PM
To: 'INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com'
Subject: RE:=20

Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and =
the
junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff =
gets
wrecked here, I guess.=20

Ever messed with the cab mounts??

Thanks,
DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 11:45 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtruckslofcom.com
Subject: Re:


At 01:32 AM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote:
>I noticed today that one of the lower rubber bushings on my cab mount =
is
>missing. It's the rubber donut looking thing with the metal washer =
holding it
>in. Anybody know the procedure for fixing this?=20
>
>I am also in the market for some decent headlight doors for a 67 F-100 =
if
>anybody has extra.=20
>
>Thanks,
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>

>>>>>Several of the companies on our suppliers list (on the web site) =
sell
headlight doors. Be aware that they are very pricey ($100-$125 =
each).

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe
form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com



____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-requestlofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpaynemindspring.com



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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC63E6.149B9620--

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End of fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 Issue #117
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ENDTAG; } ?>