Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:34:52 -0400 (EDT) To:
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0044

Volume 97 Number 0044 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Thanks
Re: Thanks
Re: Bronco II Driveshaft
magazines for 56Ford -Reply
'61 vacuum advance question
Rear End Gear Oil
'61 vacuum advance question -Reply
1979 Ford F150 parts
If you sent a pic for the pictorial page...
running without oil
RE: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8
RE: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8. List lurker steps forward...
Owners Manuals, Options List, List price List.
Re: If you sent a pic for the pictorial page...



>From Mon Apr 14 02:45:30 1997 From: Doug Neely Subject: Re: Thanks

Bob A. Parsons wrote:
> Thanks all the help. I am now the proud owner a 65 F100! I'll try to take care of that this weekend! The truck has a FE360 in it with a 3 speed manual. It has been moved from the column to the floor. I was wanting to change the tranny to an automatic, 4 spd or 5 spd. Any comments or suggestions on this idea would be appreciated.
> 65 F100
> Bob Parsons

If you're going to use it as a daily driver you might want an automatic if your commute involves lots of slow stop and go,the clutch on a 4spd gets kind of heavy after a while,by the same token a 4spd is so much more fun to drive.

> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via
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>From Mon Apr 14 08:34:32 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: [] didn't use HELO protocol From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: Re: Thanks

At 02:45 AM 1997/04/14 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob A. Parsons wrote:
>> Thanks all the help. I am now the proud owner a 65 F100! I'll try to take care of that this weekend! The truck has a FE360 in it with a 3 speed manual. It has been moved from the column to the floor. I was wanting to change the tranny to an automatic, 4 spd or 5 spd. Any comments or suggestions on this idea would be appreciated.
>> 65 F100
>> Bob Parsons
> If you're going to use it as a daily driver you might want an
>automatic if your commute involves lots of slow stop and go,the
>clutch on a 4spd gets kind of heavy after a while,by the same token
>a 4spd is so much more fun to drive.
> Cheers,
> Doug

Learn to shift without the clutch. Except for starting from a stop, you should never need to move your foot.

>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Message distributed via
>> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address:
>> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body
>> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
>Message distributed via
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address:
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:

>From Mon Apr 14 11:46:38 1997 From: Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: Bronco II Driveshaft

I've got a 89 Bronco II that has the non CV joint drive shaft. As far as I'm concerned their junk. I've had three new drive shafts installed in about 1.5 years. I'm curious if any body else has had this problem.


>From Mon Apr 14 12:06:38 1997 From: NATHAN BURNUM Subject: magazines for 56Ford -Reply

hey eric,

I would recommend a magazine called "Classic Trucks". They have alot of information about 50's trucks also a magazine called "Custom Classic Trucks". My dad seem to like them.


>From Mon Apr 14 12:41:32 1997 From:
Subject: '61 vacuum advance question

Hey everybody!

I had a great weekend! I putted all 'round town in my '61 after it sat in the driveway the last couple of months in various stages of becoming road-worthy, (new shocks, fresh paint on rims, new rubber, new hoses and coolant, some new wiring, etc...).

I still haven't tracked down my 300mA, 60Hz current drain, but I'm not through checking.... Other than the battery draw, it seems to be running great....except for the engine response once I give it some gas pedal. The engine will bog down initially, then it will take off. I found a copper vacuum line disconnected at the base of the carburator (a 2-barrel Holley). The suspected hole on the carb was make-shiftedly plugged. I removed the plug while the engine was running to see what would happen, but not too much of a difference was observed. I then connected the copper vacuum line to the carb hole and took the truck for another spin, but not any better, in fact I went up a steep hill and she bogged down quite abit. I know I probably need a vacuum tester (which I do not currently own)to test the advance diaphram properly. But even with out one, I am thinking I should hit the NAPA store this afternoon and just get a new vacuum advance, since this one may have a broken/brittle diaphram in it. Am I on the right track? (I'm trying to check/replace the easy and CHEAP stuff first.)

Also, where do you owners of 292 Y-blocks get your drop in oil filter elements? My next, and last local autoshop (NAPA) is my last local possibility for this older replacement part. I hate to have to mail order those dang filters if I don't have to.

Look forward to hearing some ideas.


"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block

>From Mon Apr 14 14:26:30 1997 From: (David Herzog) Subject: Rear End Gear Oil


I recently bought a 94 F-150, and I am trying to get it in shape for a road trip to Alaska this coming summer.

Two questions have come up that I could use some expertise with.

1. The transmission (5 speed) has a tendency to "grind" a little when upshifting from 1st to 2nd. Generally, there is no trouble when downshifting. It is a little worse when it is cold. A Ford dealer says this is "COMMON" and not a problem in the MAZDA made manual transmissions. I have changed the manual transmission fluid with Valvoline ATF derron III/mercon. This has made no difference. Are there any friction modifies, etc. on the market to fix this "COMMON" problem?

2. I want to change the rear end oil- my truck has a limited slip rear end with 355 gears. I bought a 4 ounce bottle of STUFF from Ford to mix with the gear oil, but my question is regarding the proper gear oil to use. One Ford parts man said use only 90W140 synthetic. Another said any old 90 weight will do. Is there anyone who really knows?????


ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339

>From Mon Apr 14 15:07:11 1997 From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) Subject: '61 vacuum advance question -Reply To:

>>> 04/14/97 11:41am >>> -snip-

>probably need a vacuum tester (which I do not currently own)to test
>the advance diaphram properly. But even with out one, I am
>thinking I should hit the NAPA store this afternoon and just get a
>new vacuum advance, since this one may have a broken/brittle diaphram
>in it. Am I on the right track? (I'm trying to check/replace the
>easy and CHEAP stuff first.)

Have you considered the accelerator pump? Take off the air filter and look down the throat of the carb while you give the throttle a few quick pulls. You should see gas squirt into the throat or in some cases a gas mist.

>Also, where do you owners of 292 Y-blocks get your drop in oil filter
>elements? My next, and last local autoshop (NAPA) is my last local
>possibility for this older replacement part. I hate to have to mail
>order those dang filters if I don't have to.

>Look forward to hearing some ideas.


>From Mon Apr 14 16:17:00 1997 From: Mac
Subject: 1979 Ford F150 parts

Hello fellow Ford fans, I am a new user and if I do anything wrong e-mail me......thanx
I was wondering if anyone out there knew of a scrap yard or salvage yard that has lots of Ford Truck Parts on the east coast?? I live in New Brunswick Canada so I have easy access to the U.S.A northern east coast.
Or if anyone has some parts for sale or swap......e-mail me and we can get in touch.


>From Mon Apr 14 16:26:00 1997 From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) Subject: If you sent a pic for the pictorial page...

If you sent me a picture for the pictorial page I would like to request that you email me a description of the vehicle and any comments. I'm in the process of enhancing the pictorial pages and I would like to give credit where credit is due with as many pics as possible. Also, if you have a homepage I can link your trucks pic to it.


P.S. Feel free to send me your pics, even if one for the same year already exists.

>From Mon Apr 14 16:27:16 1997 From:
Subject: running without oil

Today on the way to work I learned what it means to leave the old gasket behind when replacing oil filters. I don't think I sat idling w/o oil pressure for more than 1-2 minutes. I had no oil pressure but enough Mobil1 in the pan *not* to trigger the check oil light of my 1993 4.0 Ranger.

Question: What do folks suggest I do to minimize further damage? I'm planning to change oil and filter tonight.
*Big* Question: How much damage did I do?

>From Mon Apr 14 17:40:51 1997 From: "Keith Srb" Subject: RE: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8 To:

First of all I want to say THANK YOU! to the people who have responded to my post on this board. Thank you for taking the time to respond to these posts, and sharing your hard earned information with me!

I guess I should have let you all in on my plans for this truck, as I see them now. I am planning on slamming the truck 3 inches front and back. This good ol' girl has seen it last "hard days work". I want to reward her for all the years of FAITHFUL Service she has given to my dad and me. The most work this truck is going to have to do anymore is carrying me, my lady friend, a cooler of food and beer up through the winding mountain roads of Arizona to the nice quiet spot looking out over a valley or lake. I am planning on doing a frame up restoration, she deserves it!

As far as the amount of power I want in the truck, I need just enough to punch it and be able to pass the snowbirds who are doing 20 MPH up mountain grades, in their motorhomes, of 6 to 7 percent and not take to much time getting around them. The Phoenix Metro Area, also knew to us AZ's as the valley, has a lot of cities that are installing photo radar, smile you're on candid camera, and cameras at intersection to photograph vehicles who run red lights.
I don't think I will do too much more street racing, if any. Were luck here, we have Friday Night Drags at Firebird International Raceway, $5 plus pass their safety inspection, and your ready to do some real drag racing. I find it kind'a hard to race some thing as un-aerodynamic as a pickup. We have enough muscle cars that are rust free roaming around the desert that I could get if I wanted to do some serious drag racing.

As far as my comment about my Harley leaking less oil than the 76 pickup I had with a 360, I should have said,

"My Harley doesn't leak oil, it marks my parking space !"

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 1997 8:29 PM To: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8. List lurker steps forward...

>Thank you very much for the info!
>Yes it is a 240/6, not a 230/6, TYPO!
>I had a 76 F150 4x4 that had a 360 in it. I hated that motor. Supposedly the

>motor had around 75k miles on it. It burned a little oil, leaked more oil in a
>week than my Harley does in a year.

Hmmm, most Harley's I've seen can spew considerable oil.
I used to give my roommate a ration of shit all the time because he had to keep an
oil pan under his Electroglide (and clean up after it constantly), while my KZ1000J kept it's parking spot in the garage clean...
Sigh. Well, everyone has opinions about motors, sometimes for good reason, sometimes because of one good or bad experience, sometimes just because.

I think asking "what's the best motor?" is like asking someone what their favorite color is. If they say "red" You can say "no, red sucks, green is better", and present all the arguments and evidence for green that You like, but You're unlikely to change their mind about red..

Personally, I *HATE* motors that leak or burn significant oil. When my motors start to drip or smoke noticably I do what it takes to make it stop.
It's something that really bugs me.
When I build my motors I take extra precautions to be sure they are well sealed.

Having said all that..

*MY* opinions about FE's:

I've rebuilt *lots* of motors, mostly industrial, but also many automotive including several Ford: 1600cc industrial, 2000cc pinto, 240/6, 300/6, 2-302's, a 360, and my 390. I've also been under the hood of countless Fords.

As far as oil leakage goes, I've seen as many oily, drippy 302/351's as I have 360/390's. I don't think that FE's have any more places/reasons to leak than 302's *except* for the corners of the intake manifold, where the manifold, block and head all meet.
This is *easily* curable by using the correct manifold/block gaskets, silicone RTV sealant, and some homemade alignment studs to make sure You drop the intake -straight- down to avoid dislodging the gaskets. Several FE owners from the FORDNATICS list discussed the technique long ago.
If it ever becomes relevent for You, let me know and I'll explain in detail.

My 390 now has 18,600 miles since I rebuilt it and it is TOTALLY dry. No leaks anywhere. Clean enough to eat off of. I like it.
At work I park on a smooth concrete slab and my truck leaves a dime sized dot of oil about twice a week... from the tranny.
I change my motor oil every 3000 miles and it's never necessary to add any between changes. I love my FE390!

My only real dislike for FE's is their weight, about 200lbs more than the 302.
I find this to be more compensated for by the awsome torque and huge, wide, powerband that a 390 can make. It would take a pretty nasty agressive 302 in a truck to beat the 390 in a straight line.
If You road race the truck, then the extra weight up front may make the FE a poor choice. Depends on Your usage...

My experiance with FE motors has been very enjoyable. Many moons ago an ex-girlfriend had a '67 Galaxie that had in excess of 200,000 miles and the 390 in it was very tired and greasy, but it still turned rear tires to smoke on command, and ate camaros for lunch. That car gave me a lot of respect for FE's.

360/390's are phenomenally durable. I've only seen a couple "badly broken" ones.
I asked for "broken FE" stories on the Fordnatics list once. Got many replies about 200,000+ mile motors still running, but only -2- replies about "broken" ones. One was a heavily built drag motor that broke a tranny and buried a 10K RPM tach. It spit a rod through the block. )-: The other was a *300 hp* shot of nitrous on top of a built 390 boat motor at high rpm sent the crank out the bottom of the motor.
I think both these failures can be attributed to playing -way too hard-!

Broken 302 stories are -much- easier to come up with.

>That thing was a dog! I would have a hard
>time putting a 360 or 390 in my truck after my experience with the 76 pickup.

Well, the 352 and 360 share the same weight as the 390 but much less power.
'76 was probably the worst Year for performance from a 360.
Very lean burn smog pig motor... The last Year for all FE's also.
Earlier years were better and more performance oriented.

A good 390 is quite a lot stronger than good 360. That extra stroke really helps make torque across a wide powerband.
Some 60's sedans had high compression, 4-bbl 390's that were quite formidable powerplants bone stock.
375hp from the factory in a Galaxie.. Those were the days.

My 390 is a quite mild, 8:1 comp truck motor but makes 300+ hp with 440+ ftlbs torque. And we're not talking about "peaky" torque. It makes *big* torque from idle to 5K.
Not bad for a $1100 motor. (aquisition price plus low $$ rebuild.) 400 hp N.A. is no problem with a 390. Much more is available if You can afford fancy heads or wanna turbo/blower/nitrous one. The block and crank can take much abuse.
If You're lucky enough to score a 427 or 428 FE, Your power/weight ratio in a F100 would look very favorable indeed... (-:
>In the mind set I am in now, I think I would go find a 289. Beef it up and
>work around any hassles I might run across before I use a 360 or a 390.

Other than weight I really doubt the 390 is any more "hassle" than a 289/302.
Ease of installation is probably the same, there was shitloads of 360/390 trucks with T-18 tranny made, and I really think that oil leaks on FE are no worse than 289/302/351.
A little careful attention during rebuild on either motor family should result in a nice dry motor.
I've even *heard* stories of people who can assemble leak-free Harley motors. (-;
FE's are easy.

The 390 makes an awful lot of torque and You would have to pump the 289/302 quite a bit to equal the 1/4 mile performance of a more or less "stock" 4bbl 390 in a truck.
A 289 is awful small, the 350 chevy truck guys are gonna give You a hard time unless You are pumped up. A 351W might be a good choice if You can find/afford.

>My truck is a Short Box, so it is lighter than your truck.

Mine is a short box stepside with side mounted spare tire.
It weighs 3980lbs with the FE390, 3 gals of gas, and otherwise empty.
With a full tank of gas, my equipment rack, a few tools and my fat ass, average "down the road" weight is almost 4500lbs.
It's really cool to have a public scales only 1/2 mile from home...

What's Your '66 weigh?

>I dunno, I just seem
>to have this mental block about using a 360 or 390.

I think a FE390 is an excellent choice for a truck.

Don't get me wrong about all this, I think the 289/302/351 is a great engine family. Lot's of them exist in F series trucks and they do a great job.
For my tastes a 289/302 would be to small in my truck.
I like motors that spin up and make good HP at higher RPM. I've always loved high rpm bike motors, and 150+ hp, 7000rpm VW motors and that sort.
A screaming 302 is loads of fun in a mustang, but for a truck I want *lots* of torque, and I want it to pull -hard- from 1000 rpm to redline.
The FE390 provides well for me..

The 351W might be a good compromise, but I couldn't find a decent one for sale when I was in the market.

The 351M and 400 bite. Both weigh nearly as much as FE390 but don't pull as hard.

The 302 may also get somewhat better mileage than the 390.

I get 12-13mpg in my truck. Some 302 Fxxx truck owners report 14-16mpg, others with 302's get less than me. There's so many variables, it's hard to say.

The choice of motors for *Your* truck is kinda personal, and depends on what Your intentions are for the truck.
Do You haul heavy loads around? tow a trailer? drag race? street race? use it for a work truck? daily driver or? Go get groceries? Drive it 1000 miles a year or 30,000? Is maximum gas mileage a necessity? or maximum entertainment? or?

Mine is a daily driver/work truck with 18K miles put on it in my first year of ownership. I build and repair industrial electrical equipment, (welders, generators, air compressors, etc.) so I regularly haul 500-1200 lbs in it and sometimes pull heavy trailer mounted equipment. Fat torque is a good thing.

When running empty I *HATE* taking shit from Chevy drivers, and rarely turn down an opportunity to show them my tailpipes when provoked.
The 390 rarely lets me down on these little adventures.
Torque rules the road for street racing.

The FE390 performs quite well, is stone reliable, has many performance parts available, is plentiful in wrecking yards and is cheap to buy used.

I have *no* regrets about mine and would buy a 390 again.
(unless a FE427 or FE428 was available.)
>I have seen the initials "FE" as in "FE360", "FE390". What does the "FE" stand
>for ????

Ahh, that one's easier,

"FE" stands for "Ford Edsel."
The FE block made it's debut in the Edsel as a 332 cid motor. This basic block design underwent mods and improvements throught the Years and was the basic foundation for many motors including: 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and the rare and awesome 427 cammer. (overhead cam FE427, conservatively rated
at 615HP 7500rpm!)
During the mid/late 60's Ford's racing FE motors proved themselves repeatably by eating up the competition at LeMans. They made lotsa horsepower and were very reliable.
Also, FE427 powered Cobras are worth a fortune these days.
Wish I had a FE427 side oiler in my truck, now where did I leave my wallet...?

Hope You find the right motor for *Your* truck,

Steve Delanty (

>From Mon Apr 14 17:55:37 1997 From: "Keith Srb" Subject: Owners Manuals, Options List, List price List.

Does anyone know where I can get an owners manual for a 66 Ford F100. I had he one that came with the Truck, but can't find it now.

Also I would like to find an Option List with suggested retail prices for the 1966 line of Ford Pickups.

Last but not least, would it be possible to obtain copies of any of the original paper work for this truck from Ford.

Don's want much do I !!!!!!!!!!

Any help anyone gave give me, after they stop laughing, will be appreciated.

Has any one ever talked to anyone from Ford about having a Ford Rep read over these questions and try and answer them ???

>From Mon Apr 14 18:21:28 1997 From: John Macnamara Subject: Re: If you sent a pic for the pictorial page...

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.


PAYNK (Ken Payne) wrote:
> If you sent me a picture for the pictorial page I would
> like to request that you email me a description of the
> vehicle and any comments. I'm in the process of enhancing
> the pictorial pages and I would like to give credit where
> credit is due with as many pics as possible. Also, if you
> have a homepage I can link your trucks pic to it.
> Thanks,
> Ken
> P.S. Feel free to send me your pics, even if one for the
> same year already exists.
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address:
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:

Ken: Here is a picture of my 78 F250 4x4 Supercab.



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