Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 01:58:26 -0500 (EST) To:
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0018

Volume 97 Number 0018 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Repair Help
formula for speedo calib. (92 and UP)
Late Model Diesels
78 ranchero 351 windsor
Re: Late Model Diesels
1961 Rim Questions
78 ranchero 351 windsor -Reply
Re: 78 ranchero 351 windsor
RE: 1974 F100 EGR question
1974 F100 EGR question
200 members tonight!
1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle
Re: 1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle
carb woes
carb woes error
Re: The Vote



>From Mon Mar 10 09:56:41 1997 From:
Subject: Re: Repair Help

>>From Sat Mar 8 01:09:25 1997
>Subject: RE: Repair help!!
>door is smashed, under the vent window on the cab is smashed and part of
>the bed close to the cab is also smashed. Is it wise to have the repair
>guys replace the whole cab instead of fixing it? and does anybody know
>A guy I see every day was rear-ended in his '94 Ch*vy and it actually pushed
>the bed into the cab and messed up the back of the cab pretty good. To
>replace the bumper, the rear half of the exhaust, straighten the frame, weld
>a repair on the frame, and fix the back of the cab was going to be about
>$8000. He opted to do all of the work except fix the cab-he just had it
>repainted to cover where the paint had cracked. It sounds like you're a
>little worse of, but if the door will still seal and the inside of the cab
>is OK (no panels popping off) then I'd just repair the cab. Or start fresh.
>Just my $.02.
>'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360
>'66 VW Beetle 1300

Thanks for the info guys!!
I went to get an estimate at Ford and they placed it at $3,500. Replacing the rocker panel, keeping the interior of the door and replacing the shell, removing parts on the cab and welding in new ones, repairing the side of the bed. They assurred me that they where going to use as little bondo as possible. Then they have to paint from headlight to tail light to keep the color the same.

Most of the cost is in labor and the parts only came to around $1000.
We'll see what the out come is!!!

>From Mon Mar 10 10:48:55 1997 From: ( Delray M Dobbins 230-3191 5962) Subject: formula for speedo calib. (92 and UP) X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII

Well I went back and checked the correct formula for determining the conversion constant for the speedo in 92 up F-150s it is:

(Tire SAE Avg revs per mile) X (# of teeth on exciter gear
in axle) see note

Note: 7.5 axles have 102 teeth
8.8 axles have 108 teeth
9.75, 10.25, 10.5 and 11.25 axles usually have 120 teeth

For those of you who want to see the conversion constant in your late model F-150:

1) Hold down the RESET button while you turn the ignition
switch to RUN (NOT Crank).

2) the speedo should peg and then return to 0

3) The odometer should display something like EO86
E-English MPH Speedometer
O=Overseas (Metric) Speedometer
8= REvision level....Software??
6=# of times you can reprogram the constant.

4) Press the Reset button again and the odometer
will display your conversion constant.
Should be between 5.0 and 11.0.

Note: the decimal may not be displayed

5) Turn off the ignition.

The above procedure CAN not change yhe programmed constant, You must ground pin #9 on the connector to the speedo housing to actually change the constant.

BTW, As far as I now ONLY 3.08 and 3.55 were available on the 92-96 F-150s. At least thats what the brochure says for my 94.
Exception: the lightnings had 4.10s.

Hope this helps.

Nathan, I will try to fax today (monday)

Regards to all

Delray Dobbins
94 Supercab Flareside 351/3.73/Vortech A-trim, ET 14.90

>From Mon Mar 10 22:55:30 1997 From: "James C. Thorne, P.E." Subject: Late Model Diesels

>Hi Everyone,

>I'm looking for opinions on the 6.9 and 7.3 ford diesels since I'm
>considering one in a van or possibly a pickup. What I'm hoping for is a tow
>vehicle which can handle a 4500 lb dual axle trailer and which gets better
>mileage than a 460. Another option is a 351W and I'm also wondering if that
>would be adequate. I live in Los Angeles and will be towing a trailer both
>east and north including over Tejon Pass which is usually pretty stressful
>on tow vehicles.

>Thanks for the help.


Well you have had two other opinions an I thought I would give you a third from a little
different point of view. I have a 7.3 in an F-350 4x4 Crew Cab. It is a 93 and came
as a normally aspirated mechanical injection diesel. Factory rating was 185HP and
375 ft.lbs. I upgraded the unit with a Banks Sidewinder turbo which ups the power to
275HP and 525ft.lbs. (verified via drag strip times and scale weights). I tow a 45 ft.
goosenek trailer with 2 race cars, tools, tires, lights, coolers, compressor etc for racing
events and out of town car shows. Total weight of rig (truck, trailer, & load) 23,500lbs.
I have been very happy with the truck's performance. Mileage runs 14 empty city, 16 hwy. and
11 with the trailer. I am lead footed and the truck weighs 8500 lbs 'unloaded' Hwy is 75+MPH
both with and without the trailer.

I have driven the new Powerstroke diesel. It is strong and has similar torque but is not
as quick as my modified truck. It does, however, get better fuel economy. About 3 to 5 MPG
better with similar loads. The Powerstroke is a great (and only diesel) option on a new truck
but as a conversion could be very difficult due to the electronics involved.

I would not highly recommend the 94 factory IDI turbodiesel. The motor is good but the turbo
is a factory crippled ATI turbo and is only rate 190HP. Only 5 more than the normally aspirated
engine of the same year.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to do and how it goes!

James Thorne

>From Tue Mar 11 10:58:00 1997 From: Smokey
Subject: 78 ranchero 351 windsor

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.


Smokey wrote:
> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a
> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
> appreciated
> thanks much
> smokey wells
> phx, az
> ps will run ac in summer

Content-Base: "file:///C|/TEMP/351%20windsor%2078.htm"

>From - Tue Mar 11 08:48:37 1997
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:48:37 -0700
From: Smokey
Subject: 351 WINDSOR
X-Mozilla-Status: 0001
Content-Length: 750

I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly appreciated
thanks much
smokey wells
phx, az ps will run ac in summer


>From Tue Mar 11 11:03:21 1997 From: Robert Whitley Subject: Re: Late Model Diesels

At 10:55 PM 3/10/97 -0500, James Thorne wrote:

>Well you have had two other opinions an I thought I would give you a
>third from a little

Thanks for your input. I prefer a the normally aspirated option and I'm looking for an older vehicle.

However, you mention two other opinions. I totally missed those. Maybe I went through my mail too quickly. Would someone mail me those messages or a summary?

Thanks. Rob

=============================== (Robert Whitley)

>From Tue Mar 11 11:52:50 1997 From: "Erickson" Subject: 1961 Rim Questions

Hi Everybody,

{I seem to have had some email problems these past couple of days. I am attempting a repost of this message, since I believe this never got posted yesterday.}

I have a question pertaining to what type of rims are stock for a 1961 F100.

I have 5 (including spare) 15" rims that I am stripping for repaint. I only found out this weekend that I have two types of similar, but not identical rims. I will attempt to briefly describe them. The two differences are the construction (the outer rim where the tire seats and the lug centers are either welded, or on some, are riveted) and how the hubcaps will mount (either snap *around* or *inside* the ring surrounding the lug nuts - resulting in a male-type or female-type hub cap, for lack of a better term.)

This small differences will make a big difference when I'm looking for the set of hub caps, as the two types of rims will not accept the same type or size hubcap.

1.) Does anyone know what rims were
original for the '61 year?

2.) And since I'm on the subject, how about the hubcaps for that year?

Since I'm rim painting this week, I'd like to end up with 5 of the correct type of rims for my truck all painted alike. (The "oddball" rims I'll end up with will make prime candidates for snow tire mounting).

3.) Were the rims for this year painted all one color (mine will be creme colored), or are the backs supposed to be painted black with creme on the fronts?
(The rims' paint that I am currently stripping have both painting configurations - so I'm confused!)

Thanks in advance.

1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck

>From Tue Mar 11 15:06:48 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: 78 ranchero 351 windsor -Reply To:

>>> Smokey 03/11/97 09:58am >>>
> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built
> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
> appreciated
> thanks much
> smokey wells
> phx, az
> ps will run ac in summer

Some questions:

What block is it and what's the displacement? Using Edlebrock Performer Series components in combination can easily bring you one HP per cubic inch. However, if you don't care about stock looks, I would strongly recommend getting headers.
The combination of a good intake and headers can give the most bolt on performance for the buck than anything else.

Example: 390 FE engine with Edlebrock intake, carb, cam and headers yields roughly 390 hp, add good heads and you can bump it even higher.

>From Tue Mar 11 16:57:54 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: 78 ranchero 351 windsor

At 10:58 AM 3/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Smokey wrote:
>> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a
>> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
>> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
>> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
>> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
>> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
>> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
>> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
>> appreciated
>> thanks much
>> smokey wells

Try a Compitition Cams part # 35-414-3, Advertised duration is 270,duration 0.050 is 224, Lift is .500 at the valve.
Works very well with a compression ratio around 9.5:1, a good dual plane manifold, and a spreadbore carb, but it needs headers with a 2.5" exaust.
Pocket porting the exaust ports is basicly a must-do job on the Windsor engines, and does pay in gained HP. You should also replace the FMX trans with a "kitted" C4. As it will survive behind a modified 351W where the FMX won't.
3.73 gears will also help you "get" around town also.
BTW... the 78 Ranchero weighs about 3800lbs, unless its fully loaded.

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

>From Tue Mar 11 19:54:05 1997 From: Jean and Phillip Johnson Subject: RE: 1974 F100 EGR question

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC2E4E.B704C080

I have a related problem with my 1976 F100. Vacuum lines plugged and = possibly routed wrong. I have all kinds of problems getting the engine = to idle properly and I'm sure it's the vacuum lines (engine's new as are = all the bolt ons). Wish I could help you with how the lines should be = hooked up and what you should have in the way of emissions but alas I = can't. I can tell you that a Ford dealer will probably not be able to = help you with it. I tried that and they told me they don't have shop = manuals old enough. I called Ford Motor Co. and they couldn't help = either. I'm still looking for reliable vacuum diagrams. If anyone = finds a source for such things please post it here.

Thanx P. Johnson

From: Donald R. Screen[] Sent: Saturday, March 08, 1997 5:05 PM To:
Subject: 1974 F100 EGR question

I have a 1974 F100 XLT Ranger with a 360 V8, C6 tranny...
It has a 4300 4 barrel carb.=20
The previous owner removed numerous items...include the bowl vent line, the vacuum signal line from the cannister..the neutral safety etc etc...vacuum lines were routed to unusual locations.

I have two related questions about this truck:

1. This is an early 1974 truck (non-electronic ignition) only has one PVS switch at the heater elbow. One intake manifold vacuum tap with about 4 ports. Two ported vacuum ports on the front base of the carb.
There is no EGR system currently installed. =20 Should this vehicle have one installed? I am assuming it should and that the previous owner just ripped it out too. There is no EGR TVS.
The carb riser plate has no provision for an EGR adapter.

2. I was finally able to decipher what the PVS function is and how to hook up the distributor advance to it properly. The intake manifold vacuum tap has lines going to the brake booster, Thermac system in the air cleaner, transmission (if I remember correctly) and the one and only PVS.

Anybody out there can fill me in on the proper vacuum hookups for this truck? I tried the library and bookstore...found some basic diagrams in a Motor manual but not an all inclusive diagram for this model year.
Especially need to know what the right ported vacuum port hooks up to.
Does it go to the fuel vapor cannister? Or does it go to the missing EGR system? or maybe even both? I have the left ported vacuum port hooked up to the top of the PVS (3 port switch).

There is no decal of any kind under the hood. Can a Ford dealer provide a replacement decal? Or where can I get one for this truck?

Allen, Texas

1974 Ford XLT Ranger
1980 Chevy Scotsdale 3/4 ton
1985 Supra
1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible


------ =_NextPart_000_01BC2E4E.B704C080


------ =_NextPart_000_01BC2E4E.B704C080--

>From Tue Mar 11 20:14:48 1997 From: Ken Payne Subject: 200 members tonight!
To: (Jim Perkins) is our 200th user!
Digest format has 88 members and standard format has 112.

Oh, if anyone saw the item on the charter or the newsgroups about no 1978+ Broncos, disregard it. It was very late when I wrote that and it was pretty bone-headed about me.
It has been removed. Also, check out the events page, several events have been added.

Also, please send me your vote via private email. To those unfamiliar with what I'm talking about, I need to know how everyone feels about splitting the group up into pre 1980 and 1980+ lists. So far only 18 members have sent in votes. On Wednesday I'm going to total the votes. Your vote does count and this will be decided fairly - my personnal feelings in this will not count, only my vote counts.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there):

>From Tue Mar 11 21:08:19 1997 From: "Donald R. Screen" Subject: 1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle To:

To Phillip Johnson:'s an update on my 1974 F100 vacuum problem. Finally got some shop time in, got the ice tea in hand and cranked up some music...

I hooked up one of the intake manifold vacuum ports to the lowest connection on the PVS (thermal vacuum switch on the heater elbow). Then ran another vacuum line from the middle of this PVS switch to the distributor vacuum advance. Then ran a third line from the upper most connection on the PVS switch to the left ported vacuum port on the lower left side of the Motorcraft 4300 4 barrel carb. All the books say my distributor should only get ported vacuum under normal operating temperatures. Above 235 degrees the PVS switch swaps vacuum sources to the intake manifold instead of the ported vac off the carb. This increases the vac advance to the distributor, increases engine speed and cools the engine back down to below 235 degrees.

My truck has no EGR system installed; however if your 1976 truck does it should also receive ported vac off of the carb (usually right lower base of the carb) just above the throttle plates. The carb vac source should go to a two port thermal vacuum switch. These two port switches are color coded and operate at different temperatures depending on the color code. One vac line goes from the right port of the carb to the lower port of the EGR TVS and the upper port of the EGR TVS goes to the EGR valve. The EGR should not receive any vacuum when the engine is cold.
The EGR should only operate when the engine is above the temp that the EGR TVS opens at and only when ported vacuum is being produced by the carb, usually when the throttle is above idle. My Ford reference books all say "Don't disable the EGR" It does help bring down combustion temps and reduces pre-ignition/spark knock. Any comments on this one?

The intake manifold vacuum tap supplies vacuum to items such as the brake booster, vacuum modulator on the transmission, the vacuum motor on the air cleaner and the 3 port PVS switch for vacuum advance when the engine exceeds 235 degrees.

The fuel vapor canister also uses vacuum to draw fuel vapors from the canister in to the engine and burn them.. The carb bowl is usually vented to the canister also. Canister hookups seem to be somewhat unique from year to year...really need a good Ford Factory Level service manual for this one I think.

I too had a heck of time just getting my 360 FE V8 to start and idle without stalling. After some tinkering I found that choke was open way too far..I adjusted it towards rich with the fast idle screw on the high step of the cam (Chilton's does describe this procedure for different carbs). Timing was extremely advanced (22 degrees) with the vacuum to the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged) My books say about 6 degrees is right for the 360 V8. So I retarded the timing..could only get to about 11 degrees before the truck started to buck and cough. Finally I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold tap. At 11 degrees of timing I was only getting 15 inches of unsteady vacuum. I richened the mixture by turning the mixture set screws one at a time a the base of the carb. Idle finally smoothed out and vacuum reading went to 20 inches (More like it should be). I really don't know if this is proper but it seemed to fix the rough idle problems. Gonna have to check the plugs after awhile and see if there is carbon buildup indicating too rich a mixture. You fellow Ford owners are the only ones other than my collection of truck books that can tell me if there is a better way to smooth out a rough idle.

Allen, Texas

>From HURDJVAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Tue Mar 11 23:12:37 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: 1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle X-VMS-To: IN%""

Maybe this will be of some help, but note that it is from the 1979 Ford Truch Shop Manual (Helms)

When cold, the typical three-port PVS (ported vacuum switch)
provides a path through the center and top holes. When hot,
the top port is closed off and the center and bottom ports are

The EGR PVS (which I believe is a two-port PVS) has the following color codes and and opening temperatures:
Pink top Above 90~ (degrees)
Black top Above 100~
Plain or blue Above 133~
Yellow top Above 155~

And for a four-port PVS, the manual indicates that above the calibration temperature of the PVS, the ports marked D and M should not flow vacuum, and the ports marked E and S should, otherwise the PVS should be replaced.

Hope this is useful info!

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

>From Tue Mar 11 23:41:47 1997 From: (marko maryniak)
Subject: carb woes


Well, Jim in Central NY, I hope you're listening.

I have to order a vacuum gauge so I haven't hooked one up yet. But the beast is not running well so I thought I'd outline everything to you in hopes of coming up with a possible solution.

The truck is a 71 F250 4x4 with the heavy suspension.

As you know, my carb is the 6919 holley with the 10.5" power valve and an electric choke. The engine is a 360 with a cast dual plane manifold. I run an open air cleaner.
I live at sea level, and it's quite damp here in the NW, especially now.

The engine is equipped with an almost-new RV cam.

I have a Ford electronic ignition on the truck. The cap is the tall kind (not flat) and I have good 8mm wires on it.

When I go to start it, esp in damp weather between 30 and 45 degrees, it starts fine, kicks up to fast idle and goes for a bit. As soon as the choke heater warms up, the idle speed drops down and the idle is awful, almost dead. I have to keep revving the engine to keep it going. If I hold the throttle down part way it idles better but it seems with an excess of throttle opening for the speed. It's still rough then.

Once the truck gets to normal operating temperature the idle corrects itself.

During highway driving, when going uphill on a long gentle incline (gentle pressure on the accelerator) or going up a really steep one with your foot in it, at about 50 or so mph in 4th (top) gear, the engine blips and backfires. If I gear up to 3rd and rev the engine high, the problem ceases.

On downhill deceleration there is some backfiring in the exhaust. Not excessively loud. I run manifolds, duals (short, exhausting in front of the back tires) and 'turbo' mufflers.

When I shut the engine off, there is a strongish smell of gas from the engine compartment, coming from the carburetor vents I think. There are no visible leaks.

The exhaust smells somewhat dirty, like unburned hydrocarbons. I suspect the carburetor is running rich.

What do you suspect is going on, and is the vacuum gauge still the best way to check this problem out?

Could the idle problem be fixed with a spacer, wide flat cap, and the appropriate wires?

And what about the


marko in Vancouver
71 f250 4x4

>From Tue Mar 11 23:47:28 1997 From: (marko maryniak)
Subject: carb woes error

Hi again.

Vacuum is confusing.

It seems I have the power valve in the 6919 that it came with, ie. the 12.5" hg one and not the 10.5" one. If that's the one listed for that carb.

This may make a significant difference.


marko in vancouver

>From Wed Mar 12 00:07:16 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: The Vote

Ken Payne said:

"On Wednesday I'm going to total the votes.
Your vote does count and this will be decided fairly My personal feelings in this will not count, my vote counts."

So what DO you think, Ken?

Mitch Miller


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