Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 03:50:24 -0700 (MST)
From: (fordtrucks80up-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #98

fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, March 16 1998 Volume 02 : Number 098

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: TPS Switch [ (Randall Goolsby)]
Re: Loud Turn Signal Flasher [JDavis1277 ]
Re: Loud Turn Signal Flasher [Paul Laughlin ]
Re: F-150 wheels [Randy ]
RE: 2wd locker [sbest ]
Re: Differential Installation Help [sbest ]
Re: newer F-150 wheels [sbest ]
ADMIN: Web site updates [Ken Payne ]
Man-Auto interchange? [sbest ]
Re: Tire Size For 94 F150 [Logerman ]
Re: Tire Size For 94 F150 [FSTFORDS ]
RE: TPS Switch [Richard Vaughan ]
Fuel filter [RobSweed ]
Crankcase breather element [RobSweed ]



Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 06:27:23 -0800
From: (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: Re: TPS Switch

Joe,the only bad tps (actally like a rheostat I think) was on a 84 5.0
Mustang.After warming up the idle was all over the place.It would rev to
like 1500 rpm,then drop way off to below 500 and frequently die.The
computer depends on the tps for the impedence it provides,and with an
open circuit,could never really find itself or figure out what it was
doing.The reason it didn't do it cold was apparently because there were
other components in the electronic board at work overriding the tps to
get it warmed up. Randy 94 EB


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 10:20:19 EST
From: JDavis1277
Subject: Re: Loud Turn Signal Flasher

I seem to remember seeing a loud flasher advertised in TRAILER LIFE magazine.
Can't swear to it, but go to the library and look at few back issues. Good
luck, Butch Davis-


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 10:45:54 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: Loud Turn Signal Flasher

The neatest setup I have ever heard of was on an Olds Cutlass and it was
a stock item. It had a timer that was initiated when the turn signal
was turned on and after a given time sounded a very loud tone to tell
you to turn the darned thing off. For what it is worth the heavy duty
flasher that I had installed on my car is not loud at all. Can't hear
it over the blower.
Paul in Portland OR


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 15:02:18 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: F-150 wheels

what size tires can I put on my F-250. It's an 87 HD 4x4 and the
front has settled some due to the plow. It currently has running
boards w/the built in mud flap for the front wheels, but those will be
coming off in favor of nerfs. I want to run 33" tires on it now and
intend to lift it hopefully this summer if $ permits it. I would keep
the 33's after lifted even if a they looked a little small. Looking
at a 4" lift for now, but I've seen a 2.5" lift by Tuff-country I
think. I would like some opinions on this lift though from people who
have or know someone who has installed one, because I think the angle
of the fron IFS would be to extreme since there are no drop brackets.
I think 33x11.5 with whatever backspacing necessary to put them on is
what I'm looking at Mike, let me know.

> the new 7-lug design improves ride disturbances caused by poor wheel seating
> which causes vibration.
> mike
> discount tire


Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:53:44 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: RE: 2wd locker

>A 2WD with a limited slip diffrential will get you in and out of
>90-95% of the places a 4 WD will. As long as you have some common
>sense and know how to utilize your equipment correctly. Walt

>>Andrew is the 2WD correct never heard of anyone making or
>>installing lockers on a two wheel drive

I beg to differ that though a LSD will get you through 95% of the
places you NEED to go, it will not securely take you 95% of the
places a 4wd WILL go.

Now if you put better tires on, add some weight on the rear, a LSD,
tire chains and lift the truck for a bit of clearance, your 2wd will
really give a stock 4wd truck a run for its money for much less

But then, do those things to a 4wd...

Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page:
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...


Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:53:48 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: Re: Differential Installation Help

>Hi All,
>Info; Ranger '87 Super-cab 5spd 4WD 2.9 eng / 7.5 diff. with 175K mi..
>Have used Mobil 1 oil since 10K, changed every 5k w/ good quality filter,
>the engine seem to run like new. Gets painted this spring, Ford has that
>self-destruct paint, no amount of care could save it.
> Just completed rebuilding the front axles, drive shaft and rear dr
>shaft.(for some odd reason they needed it(-: (-; :-)) Now the rear end
>seems a bit loose and clunky. Have decided on installing a limited slip and
>using an Auburn Gear "hi performance" unit. In Maine we have a mud season
>instead of spring. Go just a few inches off a paved surface and you are in
>for a tow. Snow, ice and sand also call for a limited slip.
> Now my question: I am interested in anyone's experiences with the
>rear-end gear installation process. The best book(s) on how to, and special
>tools needed ect..
> Can I safely reuse the R& Pinion, the stock axles? It is for almost
>all road use. Can the home mechanic get the old R&P to seat(?) once it is
>Thanks In Advance

The setup of a new gear is kind of a tricky business, maybe best left to
experts. That said, just because a guy is a licensed mechanic and has done
one before, or even works at the dealership, doesn't mean he is the guy to
install your new $300 gears. Look for a shop with a LOT of SUCCESSFUL
experience with gear and pinion installations.

You can safely reuse the Ring & Pinion, and the stock axles. It sounds
like you might have the skills to install the Auburn unit too. You may as
well put new bearings on the Auburn, don't try to pull the old ones off.
If you ever had your doubts about the pinion bearings and seal, now is the
time to change them. Just don't lose or mix up the shims! You will need a
new crush collar if you pinion uses one.

While changing pinion bearings could possibly change its depth, modern
bearings are made to such close tolerences this is not likely. As long
as you reinstall the original shims where you found them, the pinion will
be OK.

When you change the differential carrier (for the Auburn unit) the only
spec you can change is ring gear backlash. The differential carrier units
are usually built to pretty close tolerances and usually this does not
even change, but you must check it. It requires a dial indicator and should
be 5 to 10 thou, 7 would be perfect. Check it in several places. The biggest
problem is getting the proper shims, Ford doesn't carry them.

Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page:
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...


Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:53:55 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: Re: newer F-150 wheels

> > Does anybody know.....
> > Will the factory wheels from 97 and newer F-150 trucks fit older
> > F-150s? I know the wheel size is different but is the bolt pattern
> > and/or the lug size different? I know on GM products the newer wheels
> > fit but it was a 14mm lug instaed of a 1/2 inch lug. For "proper" fit
> > you had to buy special lugs. Just wondering...
>>> Vance,
>>> Just from observation, I've noticed Ford now has 7-lug wheels. What
>>> the h*ll is that all about? Guess maybe they didn't want you putting
>>> those older wheels on the new trucks. I don't know if all the trucks
>>> have the 7-lug, or just he heavy-duty models or what, but thought I'd
>>> let you know.
>>> Later,
>>> Randy
>> 7 lugs!! You're the first one to tell me that! I have asked my tire &
>>wheel dealer and he had no idea since no one had upgraded their wheels
>>with him yet on the new trucks. A service manager at the local Ford
>>house had told me they would be the same (before they came out). What
>>did he know? Oh well, there's nothing wrong with my factory original

>the new 7-lug design improves ride disturbances caused by poor wheel seating
>which causes vibration.

I believe the 7 lug wheels are only on the newer 3/4 and one ton trucks
aren't they? Not the half tons?

The reason I read for switching was that the new rims and hubs are
designed to be hub centered and not bolt centered and are not
interchangable with previous designs. Make sense?

Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page:
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 19:58:18 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Web site updates

Pictures added to pictorial in the 50-60, 67-72, 73-79,
87-96 and 97+ sections.

January and February archives are now on line. Zip format,
maximum compression, long file names (Windows 3.x users will
need a zip util or filename util that supports long names).

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 17:18:32 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: Man-Auto interchange?

>Hi All,
>I have a general question. . . are manual and automatic transmissions
>interchangeable? Like, for instance, if you had a Ranger with an automatic
>installed and you were having problems with it and you wanted to put a
>standard in so you could work on it yourself could you?

Well anything will swap with anything if you have the time, the money,
the inclination and the ingenuity. You will find however, it can be more
trouble than learning to overhaul an automatic.

First you need a donor truck that will give you a clutch pedal and
all the linkages or hydraulics, then of course you will need all the
manual transmission goodies, like flywheel, bellhousing, clutch assy
(all of it) and of course the transmission. Often they are different
lengths so you will need the driveshaft(s) as well, and I hope you
don't have to install a splined steady bearing for your particular
manual transmission. Often the mounts and crossmembers are the same,
but then again, get it just in case.

You might find the entire steering column support has to be replaced
to get the clutch pedal installed. In any event it would be best to
replace the steering column anyway so people don't keep looking at the
useless auto shifter and asking: "Was this an automatic once?"

Some of the holes will not be there and will have to be cut or
drilled. Others will have to be covered over. Once you are done under
the dash things will be pretty straight forward. Oh, yes, there is
gear ratio to consider. Often autos will come with higher sped ratios
than the manuals, so it might be a little boggy off the line and on
hills but fuel mileage should be good on the flat.

My advice? Rebuild the auto. If you can handle all the above, you
can read a manual, use some tools and rebuild an auto.

Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page:
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 21:23:41 EST
From: Logerman
Subject: Re: Tire Size For 94 F150

If you have antilock brakes, you better stay with the same overall diameter


Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 22:02:30 EST
Subject: Re: Tire Size For 94 F150


abs systems are designed to notice a difference in wheel speed between each
wheel...regardless of the size.



Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 19:48:27 -0800
From: Richard Vaughan
Subject: RE: TPS Switch


> ---------------------

> Subject: TPS SWITCH
> Hey does anybody know the signs and symptoms of a malfunctioning throttle
> position sensor switch??how will the truck run?? thanks.

> joe jscf250

> Hi Joe,

The TPS on my F250, 5.8 went bad. Symptom was: engine idle speed not stable;
engine would rev up to 1500 - 1700 RPM, then back down to 800 RPM. Real drag when
it happened coming up to a stop. Turning off the ignition off then on again
would clear the problem for a short time. Replacing the TPS cured the problem.

F250 4X4


Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 01:39:01 EST
From: RobSweed
Subject: Fuel filter

Has anyone here had any trouble changing you fuel filters? I have a 94 F-150
5.0. The person who thought how and where to place and secure the filter
should be made to replace 100 of them. that would tie them up for a couple of
years. Ford for some unknown reason placed it on the frame rail next to the
front gas tank. If they ahd placed it 10 inches toward the front you could
change it in minutes. Instead you have to remove the fuel lines with one hand
and, if your working on your back with a drop light you won't be able to see
what your doing because so much fuel squirts out under pressure you'll want to
keep the light has far away as possible and put out the no smoking signs.
Once the lines are off the spring clip that holds the filter can't be opened
for the lack of room. HERE THE ADVICE (whew) Remove the spring clip and
filter together, but because the same engineer who placed the filter specified
that the bolts be an inch and a half longer than neccessary its almost
impossible clear the bolts through the holes. FINALLY THE ADVICE cut the
bolts a few threads above the nuts. You'll still have to wiggle it out but it
will be easier. I bought the tools to remove the high pressure lines from the
filter upon the advice of one of you. Thanks. Next time I think I'll pay

Any better way to do it would be appreciate.

Bob Sweed


Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 01:56:34 EST
From: RobSweed
Subject: Crankcase breather element

Anyone know where the crankcase breather element is on a '94 F-150 5.0. My
owners manual shows a part number but I can't find it. There's none in the
airbox. A hose from under the oil fill cap goes to the intake tube between
the air filter and the throttle body but there is no element inside. Haynes
manual (makes good bird cage liner), as is typical with Haynes shows a picture
of a "Typical" breather element in the air box.

Bob Sweed


Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 03:07:45 EST
From: JSCF250
Subject: Re: TPS SWITCH

when i start my truck cold it races up then idles down most of the time
(normal) . when i start it warm it surges and barely keeps an idle unless i
race it up then it straightens out.sometimes i notice a flat spot when i race
it up, not always though, and when i drive it sounds like the engine has a
slight surging noise to it, its not bad when driving mostly at idle. i guess
its going. what do you guys think? thanks for the responses.

p.s. its the original ford tps with 110k on the engine
joe jscf250
89 f-250 351w


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