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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sat, 27 May 2000 22:18:11 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 22:18:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server>
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #98
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80-96-list Digest Fri, 26 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 098

In This Issue:
Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Re: Electrical
Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Re: popping exhaust
egr valve
Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2


Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 22:51:25 -0500
From: Jim Cannon>
Subject: Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2

Moe (and anyone else in the Houston area)-

The BEST starter, generator and alternator guy I have found in the area is:

Fleet Electrical Rebuilding Service
Mark Propst - Owner
4139 Weslow
Houston 77087

He is down south of the Sout Loop, between Astroworld and Gulf Freeway.

If you can drive it there, he can tell you what is wrong with it. I agree
with Smeck, I would replace all of the cables. I use all 2 guage cable,
except for the link between the engine and the frame, I do not use no wimpy
16 ga., I use 4 guage.

I set it up with 2 ga straight to starter mounting bolt, with the 4 ga.
from the same bolt up to the frame. 2 ga. from solenoid to starter; 2 ga.
from battery to solenoid.

As someone else said, clean the cable conneciton points. Sounds like bad
cable or bad conneciton to me, not bad starter.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 02:00:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical

Here I go again, if it's not one vehicle it's the other.
Facts: 82 F100 300 T18
Symptoms: Brake lights work only if parking lights and head lights are off.
Brake lights, not reverse lights, come on when truck is put
in reverse.
Head lights, blinkers, hazards, and parking lights work.
Help! Did I lose a ground or something?


From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.">
Subject: Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 02:23:46 -0400


The last starter I bought, and I've bought a few, came with a note
saying that it was a good idea to replace the relay switch as the contacts
tend to get sloppy over time. It might be worth giving that a shot while
you're going through all the wires. Good luck.



From: "Serian">
Subject: Re: popping exhaust
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 18:22:47 -0400

> bad exhaust problem though, it pops like something else,
> so I'm thinking I need to fix something.

a fiery bang in yer exhaust indicates raw fuel is making its way
into the tailpipe and igniting. check the spark plugs, wires, dist.
cap, and rotor for cracks and oxidized connections; a plug not
firing because of such a condition will let raw fuel get pumped out
into the tailpipe to explode later.


Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 18:20:21 -0500
Subject: egr valve

So what part of the EGR valve goes bad? I pulled off the selenoid thing
off the end of it, and it seems just fine. And I can't get the big pipe
end off because of rust, so what am I looking at? Oh, the engine is an
'87 300 with EFI. What it's doing is when I'm using the engine to brake,
it pops really REALLY bad. I mean, we're talking like shotgun shot loud,
really. Someone mentioned the other day that poping like that could be
caused by unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I don't know why I'm checking the
EGR valve. If anyone has ANY sugestions as to what might be causeing
this, PLEASE let me know. It's kind of embarsing driving around with a
poping truck, and I use the engine brake all the time too.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...


From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark">
Subject: Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 22:18:05 -0500


Sorry to hear about your problems. The advice about cables, etc. sounds
good to me. There is something fundamentally wrong with the system for it
to keep burning out starters.

I have a snakebit '91 w/302. I no sooner get something fixed than
something else breaks. The electrical/ignition components are pretty poor
and most of them have now been replaced. I got my ignition problems
straightened out, then had broken exhaust manifold replaced and problems
returned. Mechanic didn't do as good of a job re-routing the spark plug
wires as I had. Need to spend an afternoon replacing/re-routing again. My
friends with newer Fords have had lots of problems as well. I would pass
on the Chevy for similar reasons. Don't get me started on Dodges. I've
finally given up and decided I'll be upgrading to a Toyota Tundra, because
reliability is important to me and I've never had a Japanese designed
vehicle fail to start (or have the AC go out, or die in the middle of the
road, or have the transmission fail, or get really crappy gas mileage,
or...list gets longer.) Hopefully, American manufacturers will eventually
bring together the combination of quality of materials, engineering,
design, and construction that the Japanese seem to typically have. They
often get several of these qualities together, but always seem to lack one
of they others. When they do get it all together, I'll be back smiling.
Until then, I'm voting with my pocketbook. "Buy American" types might not
like me for it, but it seems to be the only way to get the message across
to the folks running the companies that as an American I expect the best
from them! I believe American manufacturers are capable of it, I just
don't understand why they won't do it. As consolation, the Tundra is built
in the U.S. My guess is that they buy as many components as they can in
the U.S. to reduce shipping cost. Competition with imports has improved
all of the other lines, hope it spreads to full size trucks. Then we'll
all be happier.

Shawn Clark
e-mail: sd&


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