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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 14:34:37 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #39
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80-96-list Digest Sat, 18 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 039

In This Issue:
F250 4x4 conversion
Re: fuel guages
cat-back exhaust
Oil & Filters
Further Update- Thumpin' Floorboard.
Thanks Gary


From: "Serian">
Subject: F250 4x4 conversion
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 12:23:30 -0500

> I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles,
> 5 speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering
> converting it to 4x4.

The actual construction differences between the various
F-series lies mostly in the suspension. The frame and body
is the same, regardless of whether it is a 150 or a 250, or
350; the differnce is in what axles, suspension, and trim
goes on it.

If the 89 is typical of the 75-86 style of doing things, here is
what you face :

The 4x2 front suspension is coil spring, but the 4x4 is leaf
spring on the F250 and 350. You would need to change
the entire front suspension and axle setup. In the 76-86
F-series, coil spring 4x4 in the F150 is a Dana 44 or the
Dana 44 IFS (independent front suspension) in the 80-86;
the 250 and 350 use a monobeam solid front axle, typically
a Dana 60.
You will need a different extension housing for your transmission,
a transfer case (NP205, NP208, BW1435 are pretty common
and easy to get). You will need both driveshafts as well.
It may or may not be necessary to change the output shaft of
your transmission.
One more hole in the floorboard for your transfer case shifter.


Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 12:54:35 EST
Subject: Re: fuel guages

You need the 6 port because diesels use a return line to each tank, at idle
diesel engines don't use any whereas much fuel as the fuel pump puts out
hence the return line. Check with aftermarket suppliers. they are usually
much less expensive.


Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 18:00:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Tracy Stover>
Subject: cat-back exhaust

I have a '95 F150 4X4 with a 300 & 4sp auto. This poor
truck is terribly underpowered! I am thinking of
buying some bolt-on performance parts to get a few
more ponies out of the engine. One of the suggestions
I received was installing a cat-back exhaust from
Flowmaster. Has anyone tried this, & did it help at
all? Some of the other suggestions I got were:
performance computer chip
180* thermostat
K&N filter (I have a Amsoil oiled foam filter in it
now...was told it flows more air than a K&N)
shift improver kit

Any other suggestions?


Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.


From: (Scott Mummery)
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 21:20:04 -0600 (CST)
Subject: speedo

My truck has a annoying prob. The speedo bounces. If I am doing 55mph
the speedo will bounce between 55 and 35 mph.
The truck is a 95 F150 w/ 5.8L 4X4 w/ an auto trans. I just replaced
the speed sensor in the rearend. No affect.

Any suggestions???


Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:28:26 -0700
Subject: Oil & Filters

Chris McKinnon> asked:

> It's oil change time since I'm up to about my 5K km and I was wondering what
> brand of filter to buy. I seem to recall someone had a web page with a breakdown
> of the ditterent brands but I can't seem to find it. Any point in going to
> synthetic or semi-synthetic? Is there on brand that is better than the others?

Chris, the oil filter page has already been cited - good study. I've spent some
time with a can opener checking a cross-section of filters and reached some
of the same conclusions cited.

Last time I checked the oil filter site, he had not dissected my filter of choice
for 20 years - the Amsoil filter. The filtration material is about 1 inch thick all
around the filter, which is different from any other filter. Amsoil also includes
a bypass valve and anti-drainback valve on every filter they make, and if
memory serves, their filters take out particles larger than about 12 to 15
microns, which is super. If there's an Amsoil dealer in your area, he may
have a display which shows the filter's construction - very interesting to see.
That's my recommendation for a filter.

For oil, ANY synthetic will be superior to any standard petroleum oil.
Understand that all petro oils are excellent, but the synthetics offer better
wicking qualities and better film persistence on metal parts, they have much
superior resistance to breakdown from heat and mechanical wear, and their
viscosity stays more accurate under service. Petro oils' viscosity changes
during use more than you would like to know. My personal choices for
synthetic motor oils are Amsoil and Mobil 1 because I like the price. In a
brand new vehicle, I might go to Redline, which is even more expensive but
which is a top-notch synthetic.

Understand also that part of the benefit of synthetics is the ability to have
increased intervals between oil changes because the oil holds up to wear and
heat better. You cannot take advantage of this during a manufacturer's
warranty period because they require you to change oil and filter at certain
interals. I think I'm extremely conservative in changing oil every 6K miles and
filters every 3K miles. I could easily run my symnthetic oil 12K miles with a
clear conscience, but in my turbocharged cars I change earlier.

I just changed my '93 F-150 4x4 over to synthetic motor oil at 106K miles this
week. I also recently changed to synthetic ATF in the tranny and today I
changed to synthetic gear oil in both front and rear differentials. Ford
installed petro gear oil in this truck when new, but a call to the dealer
confirmed that they use synthetic gear oil when servicing these differentials

A couple of addresses for information about oil, synthetics and filters:

Al Powell
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200


From: "Dave Harmier">
Subject: Further Update- Thumpin' Floorboard.
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 22:01:42 -0600

Okay, THOUGHT caliper was it. Now KNOW passenger side I Beam pivot bushing
is it.
All the rubber has pushed out letting the metal shell ride up against the

How tough a job is it to replace? It looks like the bolt is easily
loosened. How do I capture, and direct the end of the I Beam where I want
it? Is it a job best left to a shop?

Thanks for the wisdom you all provide every day!!!!

Dave H.
Houston, TX
A stable of Ford Trucks


Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 12:35:00 -0700
From: "Bernell Cloward">
Subject: Thanks Gary

I really appreciate all the info. Sounds like with me not knowing much more than how to change brakes and fan belts I better just keep looking for a good deal on a newer one. My neighbor has a 95 Pstroke I've been trying to talk him out of for over a year, and I think he's getting close. Any problems you're aware of with 95's that a newer one wouldn't have?

Thanks again,.

>>> 03/18 7:04 AM >>>
I spent 3 months of my spare time engineering and building my van and the
steering box was already perfectly located and I kept the original cross
member but modified it for clearance. If I ever do this again I will find a
4x4 chassis and pop the body on it, that was a lot of work! Very satisfying
but a lot of work :-)

Keep in mind also that this was the very first 4x4 I ever owned or built so
I had no clue about all the subtleties we discuss on this list but still
managed to get it done pretty nicely. I also fabricated most of the
brackets according to what I perceived they needed since I didn't have any
to go by which took more time as well.

I'm a good mechanic with lots of equipment and knowledge and it was a
challenge to get all the parts coordinated for good handling. I studied the
problems before hand, made a plan and went with it with some modifications
along the way to my original plans as I think we all will agree seems to be
the norm in a project like this. It came out very well, handled well and I
enjoyed it a good many years but if you have to pay someone to do this you
also add in the HUGE question mark as to their skill and ability and
conscientiousness and honesty. I've seen some really botched up conversions
done by so called pros so be carefull, that's a lot of money to waste :-(

Used parts will cost you upwards of $1500 for the dana 60 and related parts
probably. Labor could be several thousand depending on who you get and how
much experience he has. A new dynatrac unit can cost over $2500 by itself
and Boyce equipment only has the right hand fronts for about $1000, no
ford's that I've been able to find there. It's possible if you used Dodge
parts which typically fit many ford bolt patterns you could put one together
for $2000 in parts or so and if you luck onto a good deal it could be less.
I found two complete dana 44 front ends and radius arms for $250 when I did
my van, the xfer case and adapter was another $200 and the 429 engine was
$200 then I grabbed a bunch of old drive shafts that looks about right in a
pile he had there and made up my own shafts which were surprisingly smooth
up to about 60 mph. I put in a lot of ujoints due to this but it worked for
me at the time :-) I didn't know about all this mail order stuff at the
time or I would have taken advantage of some of it for sure :-)

78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary

> I'm no mechanic, and will likely have to pay someone, unless I can talk
someone into helping me. I was told I could have it done for $3000 or so,
which is a lot cheaper than a new truck. Pretty sure it has I-beams and not
leafs, as I think only 1-tons have.
> Are you figuring parts cost with used parts? New would likely be what,
$3-4000? Probaby a grand just for the transfer case, and another for the
axle? Do I need to replace the transmission too?

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